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Safety tie wire.

Could someone give me an idea of the sizes (gauge) of “SAFETY TIE WIRE” I need to have on hand for building the RV 12is.
 
Can’t speak for the -12 specifically, but 90% of my safety wire is .032. I have used .025 and .041 on occasion.
 
Industry wide, .032 is probably the most common. There is a spec in AC43.13

Here's a cut and paste of part of it;

b. When using double-twist method of safety wiring, .032 inch minimum diameter wire should be used on parts that have a hole diameter larger than .045 inch. Safety wire of .020 inch diameter (double strand) may be used on parts having a nominal hole diameter between .045 and .062 inch with a spacing between parts of less than 2 inches. When using the single-wire method, the largest size wire that the hole will accommodate should be used. Copper wire (.020 inch diameter), alu- minum wire (.031 inch diameter), or other similar wire called for in specific technical or- ders, should be used as seals on equipment such as first-aid kits, portable fire extinguish- ers, emergency valves, or oxygen regulators.
 
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.032

Safety wire is relatively inexpensive at about $10 for a 1 lb roll that should last for a lifetime of oil changes. I would get at least a roll of .032, and perhaps some .041. Vans previously sold smaller quantities, I'm not sure if they still do. There's also starter kits available from Aircraft Spruce etc.
 
One more thing to add, do not use the automotive to hardware store stuff. It’s junk. Only use the aircraft stuff! Want to see an hour go by quick? Here’s Agent Jay and he’s got a 3 part series on “Lock Wire” https://youtu.be/OwFjUX6SaY8
 
Also, you are not using safety wire correctly unless your fingers are bleeding... :D

Sad, but true... the material is the most blood thirsty stuff I work with doing inspection and oil and filter changes. The stuff takes skin samples too.
 
Thanks (All) for your reply. I’ve got some .032 coming to start. Now I’m headed to the drugstore for Band-Aids and first aid appointment. 😉
 
A good pair of safety wire pliers is sure helpful, and Milbar is the brand name to get. I prefer the longer sizes. A pair I got in 1969 is still in use and still in perfect condition, so don't worry about the cost of one of these. It'll last.

I also use a pair of duckbill pliers. These have thin flat tips.

The two together handle most jobs. The duckbill ones hare good for the final few turns, and for bending the end over so that you don't get stabbed by it. I can't recall ever getting injured by safety wire but I suppose it probably happened.

Dave
 
A good pair of safety wire pliers is sure helpful, and Milbar is the brand name to get. I prefer the longer sizes. A pair I got in 1969 is still in use and still in perfect condition, so don't worry about the cost of one of these. It'll last.

I also use a pair of duckbill pliers. These have thin flat tips.

The two together handle most jobs. The duckbill ones hare good for the final few turns, and for bending the end over so that you don't get stabbed by it. I can't recall ever getting injured by safety wire but I suppose it probably happened.

Dave

When's the last time you did a conditional inspection and removed the blasted gascolator with those 4 screws safety wired up at the top, retaining the fuel bowl?
 
When's the last time you did a conditional inspection and removed the blasted gascolator with those 4 screws safety wired up at the top, retaining the fuel bowl?

September.
Don't think I've stabbed myself on the gascolator safety wire (elsewhere, the answer is different).
I use the single wire technique on the gascolator screws. three of the four stretches of wire can be easily snipped with wire cutters for removal. Needle nose pliers can be helpful where the blunt nosed pliers don't give good access.

Cheers, David
RV-6A KBTF
 
When's the last time you did a conditional inspection and removed the blasted gascolator with those 4 screws safety wired up at the top, retaining the fuel bowl?

I don't have the gascolator you do. Both my C180 and my RV-3B have different ones, secured differently.

Perhaps you can design a different locking method. And perhaps you might be able to use the single-wire method here.

Dave
 
I don't have the gascolator you do. Both my C180 and my RV-3B have different ones, secured differently.

Perhaps you can design a different locking method. And perhaps you might be able to use the single-wire method here.

Dave

I went a different route, once I got that wire removed.

#10 Nordlock washers, I think, from Aircraft Spruce.
 
I remember one project hooking up a spring that snapped and embedded the end in my hand. I had to resist instinctively yanking back my hand to avoid some serious damage and remain motionless while I got a pliers with my free hand and stretched the spring to get it out of my other hand. Hurt almost as bad as the time an Umbrella Cockatoo latched onto my index finger and wouldn’t let go.😱
 
Also, you are not using safety wire correctly unless your fingers are bleeding... :D

From my 2-day course to get my LSA-Repairman certificate...

"There are two truths about safety wire.
1) There will be blood.
2) Wipe off the blood, it corrodes aluminum!"​
 
If safety wire is cut with side cutters it makes for a very sharp end, but if cut with shears the end is not so sharp.
 
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