Interior Painting

Question for the group. I plan to paint the interior soon with Sherwin-Williams Epoxy Primer 483928 and JetFlex WR. Will I have good results just scuffing with scotchbrite and cleaning with acetone before priming?
Or is using Alodine, 3M AC-131 or PreKote a critical step?
My hesitation is since it's the interior it's going to be really hard to rinse with water. I'd greatly appreciate some feedback.

I too am interested in what to do here. The quick build is primed with something already. So primer should not be required? I assume scuff, wipe down with some sort of degreaser and spray? I was planning a single stage urethane.

Always put down new primer after surface prep, using a primer that is compatible with your top coat paint and respect the spec sheet time between primer and top coat.

Don’t skip this step.

Carl

Interior

toolmanmike said:

I too am interested in what to do here. The quick build is primed with something already. So primer should not be required? I assume scuff, wipe down with some sort of degreaser and spray? I was planning a single stage urethane.

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That's how I would do it on a QB.
No alodine. Too hard to rinse.
Bare aluminum more complicated. It really needs to be scuffed and the aluminum oxide layer removed. Scuffing with a cleaner will accomplish both but it also needs a good rinse, dry and application of primer within a few hours or the aluminum oxide reforms. There is also compatibility of the primer and top coat. Finally, there is chemical bonding between the primer and topcoat. Obviously if the primer is cured (QB) all you can do is scuff for mechanical adhesion. However, if one is spraying both, there is an opportunity to get a chemical bond if the two are compatible and sprayed per manufacturer windows.
I sprayed SW Jet Flex SB over P60G2 within a 30 minute window. So far it's pretty durable. Next time I will shoot an epoxy primer as a single paint. Hard, light and easy to touch up.

Having done several RV's now - interior painting is a mare !

Blow back, overspray etc etc.

By far the best and easiest way is base coat and lacquer - as the car guys do.

Sure - blow a primer over it - the base coat will grip to it fine. Base coat is a 1k product, the colour..... goes on matt. Super easy and can be touched up and gone over well.

Then lay down a 2k clear lacquer - can be gloss, semi matt, or matt - depends what you choose from your paint people. I go for semi matt.

The advantage of this is that clear lacquer is much easier to spray, will accept multiple coats on the harder wearing areas such as sills and door frames.


The future.....

Dan H - back me up Buddy

Red scotchbrite wipe down with distilled water. 2k Epoxy primer within 1 hr. Coated with polyurethane within 4 hours.

Some of my parts had been epoxy primed a year before paint. Red scotchbrite, rinse off the dust with water, propanol clean and spray the paint.

On a couple parts I was able to spray the paint on fresh primer within the recommended window, so no scotchbrite was required.

SW epoxy primer
Jetflex solvent based (used solvent based because it needed to ship in winter, and didn't want to freeze/ruin water based paint)

It is good practice to wipe with grease and wax remover before sanding and again after sanding. This prevents the sandpaper from picking up contamination and pushing it into the sanding scratches.

I sprayed my RV-3B interior with a $15 Harbor Freight touch-up gun. The spray gun is easy to use and minimizes overspray. It also does a nice job, at least with the Steward EcoPoxy I used. I recommend the gun.

The spray gun also uses a lot less air than a full-size gun. All in all, it's right-sized for the interior.

Dave