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  #11  
Old 10-18-2021, 07:19 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
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First photo appears to be a VS-rudder. Before working the tips, be sure the rod end hinges are adjusted so the rudder skins just barely clear the fuselage skins at full deflection, down near the lower hinge. The adjustment affects the horizontal gap at the counterweight.

As Bill said, you can cut down a high area in the gel coat without any change to the strength of the underlying part. Definitely remove the gel coat for any sort of structural bonding. I remove it even prior to adding epoxy/micro filler, but that's me.

Some empennage tip posts on this page: https://vansairforce.net/community/s...t=22931&page=3
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  #12  
Old 10-18-2021, 10:20 AM
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Location: Estes Park, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duhg View Post
I simply want the tip to be shaped as close as possible to the airfoil of the rest of the flying surface and the 2 surfaces flow evenly into each other. In picture 3 the counter balance is at least 1/4" fatter than the VS and the VS isn't symmetrical. I'm guessing the gap is pretty simple to fill or shave since it's the open end of the fiberglass.

If you were trying to get these things lined up would it be easier and more feasible to start over again with fresh parts or manipulate (or mutilate) the current pieces?
I missed the gap issue. Like Dan said, make sure all the surfaces are adjusted to spec or you'll be doing this again. If the parts are not bonded, consider drilling out rivets and removing them. Much easier to work on them and less possibility of damaging an expensive control surface. Might even order some newer gray gell coat parts. They fit better. I had to split some of mine to get the fit I wanted.
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Donated 12/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (3,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit done. Working FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #13  
Old 10-18-2021, 02:53 PM
Duhg Duhg is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
I missed the gap issue. Like Dan said, make sure all the surfaces are adjusted to spec or you'll be doing this again. If the parts are not bonded, consider drilling out rivets and removing them. Much easier to work on them and less possibility of damaging an expensive control surface. Might even order some newer gray gell coat parts. They fit better. I had to split some of mine to get the fit I wanted.
Thanks Larry,

I believe these were originally grey. The emp kit is from 2011 The white is primer sprayed over his glass work. Everything is definitely bonded and finished to what he felt was final sanding.
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