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RV10 Rear Window Installation

R

rkbrown819

Member
I know there has been extensive discussion about window installation adhesives. I am getting ready to install the rear windows and will be using the Vans-supplied WELD-ON. The forward (door) window installation was pretty easy since the doors could be put on a table and weights placed on top of the windows while the WELD-ON cured. Can anyone suggest a good way to hold the rear windows securely in-place while the WELD-ON cures?
Thanks for any advice you can provide.
Rick
 
I haven't completed this and have a ways to go. But, I have seen several drill holes outside the perimeter of the window (in the cabin top flange) and install wingnut style clecos with wooden shims to evenly clamp the window down and into place for curing. Clecos removed and flox fills the holes.
 
yep...

I drilled holes around the perimeter and made some clamps from scrap aluminum. Basically just a short piece of aluminum with a bend I one end. They are then checked to the cabin top and hold the window in.

Make sure you do not have any excess or squeeze out weld-on around the window. When cured, it is MUCH harder than the surrounding fiberglass or the Plexiglas, and can be VERY difficult to remove.
 
I would seriously consider using Lord Adhesive. Call Aerosport and chat with them about it.. or do a search
 
David,
Can you tell me more about your objection to Weld-On? I just completed my door windows using it. Not fun for sure, but it wasn't all that bad. Is you objection due the difficulty of using it or do you have a concern about its effectiveness? Vans seems pretty emphatic about its effectiveness. I'm trying to learn as much as I can from other folks' experience before I commit to it for the rear windows and the windscreen.
Thanks,
Rick
 
rkbrown819 said:
David,
Can you tell me more about your objection to Weld-On? I just completed my door windows using it. Not fun for sure, but it wasn't all that bad. Is you objection due the difficulty of using it or do you have a concern about its effectiveness? Vans seems pretty emphatic about its effectiveness. I'm trying to learn as much as I can from other folks' experience before I commit to it for the rear windows and the windscreen.
Thanks,
Rick
Click to expand...

There are many stories of folks that have used the stuff and developed crazing in the transparencies. I used it years ago when I replace the transparencies in my C-152 to glue on the compass mount per the replacement manufacturers directions . It started crazing within a month afterwards under and extending a bit beyond the joint. That was enough for me to use the Rutan method for installing the transparencies on my RV-10: Flox as the bonding agent and encapsulating the transparency on the outside with 3 layers of fiberglass tape. Hope your install does not craze as it seems to be a hit and miss issue.
 
Sikaflex 295UV is good. Cirus uses it to install there windows. Even though it claims to be UV resistant Sika recommends a UV barrier (look how most boats have a black tape band around the plexiglass window installation. It will work fine if you plan to fiberglass around the outside of the window. If doing the Sportsman method you want Silpruf, which is silicon 100 percent UV and has slightly more elasticity.
 
rkbrown819 said:
David,
Can you tell me more about your objection to Weld-On? I just completed my door windows using it. Not fun for sure, but it wasn't all that bad. Is you objection due the difficulty of using it or do you have a concern about its effectiveness? Vans seems pretty emphatic about its effectiveness. I'm trying to learn as much as I can from other folks' experience before I commit to it for the rear windows and the windscreen.
Thanks,
Rick
Click to expand...

If you do a search on the forums, you'll find where weld-on has caused many windows to craze. Vick wrote a great article on Kitplanes detailing the use of Sikaflex 295. I used it and am very happy with it. I would encourage you to use either the Lord Adhesive or Sikaflex. I drilled small holes around the window and then used special clecko's (not sure what they're called) that allowed me to set the individual depth of each one.

I can provide more info if you have any questions.
 
togaflyer said:
Sikaflex 295UV is good. Cirus uses it to install there windows. Even though it claims to be UV resistant Sika recommends a UV barrier (look how most boats have a black tape band around the plexiglass window installation. It will work fine if you plan to fiberglass around the outside of the window. If doing the Sportsman method you want Silpruf, which is silicon 100 percent UV and has slightly more elasticity.
Click to expand...

I used sika and would not recommend it for this application and certainly would not put fiberglass over it. It expands and contracts extensively with the temps. It is a great bonding agent for acrylic windows, but you must come up with a method of dealing with the expansion and contraction (concave to convex). Had I not painted over the sika, it would have been perfect.

Larry
 
togaflyer said:
Sikaflex 295UV is good. Cirus uses it to install there windows. Even though it claims to be UV resistant Sika recommends a UV barrier (look how most boats have a black tape band around the plexiglass window installation. It will work fine if you plan to fiberglass around the outside of the window. If doing the Sportsman method you want Silpruf, which is silicon 100 percent UV and has slightly more elasticity.
Click to expand...

I used sika and would not recommend it for this application and certainly would not put fiberglass over it. It expands and contracts extensively with the temps. It is a great bonding agent for acrylic windows, but you must come up with a method of dealing with the expansion and contraction.

To be fair, this is a northern climate issue. I didn't get paint cracking until the temps got below 10-20*

Lord adhesive is what I would recommend.

Larry
 
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