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New Service Bulletin 00053

Also had rivet problems

I have had the same issue with rivet stems breaking above the rivet head, starting with a few (3) of the sealed tank rivets, then later with the LP3-4s in the fuselage. I could not definitely determine cause, the rivet, tool and operator technique. It didn't happen during the wing and emp builds, it did happen more with the manual puller, but I had a few with the pneumatic puller. The problem has abated, so I assume that careful attention to make sure the puller is fully seated before pulling can prevent the issue, but the puller and rivet defects may contribute.
 
I haven’t done this SB yet, so the answer to this question might be obvious when I do it, but would it be easier to put squeezed rivets on some of the clip locations?
 
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The biggest problem I ran into was using about 10 of the LP4-3 rivets that were included with the SB kit. For whatever reason, the mandrils on 9 of those 10 rivets broke off about an inch from the manufactured head of the rivet. I then had to use a Dremel cutting wheel to cut off the ends of those mandrils. This scenario had never happened with any of the other rivets supplied for my Empennage and Wing kits. Once I switched to my supply of LP4-3 rivets, all the remaining rivets pulled fine. ...

Glad you mentioned that. I had two rivets with the same issue (out of a relatively small number for this SB) Thought it was just a black cloud day for me. Been a few years, but I very rarely had this issue while building. Do agree with speculation it was possibly something flawed in the supply of LP4-3 fasteners VANS supplied this time.
 
Installed the gussets today using the technique described by rcarsey in post 158.
The 1” foam doubled made for a comfortable environment after my helper put a squirrel cage blower in the baggage compartment to pump air over me. I used a rivet remover to remove the heads on the back side of the last bulkhead because I couldn’t see them. Worked fine. Spruce sells the tool. At Carsey’s suggestion I used 12” #30 bit in my small Dewalt drill turning it extremely slow. The 12” bit flexes making it very easy to stay on the rivet heads. All total I was in the tube about 1+20. My helper made the difference in being able to remove and add tools as necessary. I found cracks in the first and second bulkheads, drill stopped them, and riveted the gussets to the bulkheads only pending patch installation. Built two patches which begs the question… what is the proper rivet pattern for the patches? The SB only shows replacing the rivets drilled out. Is it not appropriate to add more rivets around the perimeter? Any suggestions are appreciated.

I made an offset tool similar to what Avery offers and used my manual rivet puller
to pull all the rivets with no problem. An option is to use wedges but the tool is easier to keep track of.

As a 5’11” 175lb 78 yr old arthritic old man I dreaded the job but, surprisingly,
it went very well.
 
To score or not to score?

A question for those of you that have already completed SB-00053 on a painted RV-12 … did you lose a lot of paint surrounding the removed rivets?

Anyone take the time to use a razor blade or x-acto knife blade to lightly score the paint around the base of the rivets prior to removing the rivets? If so, how well did that work for you?

Thanks in advance for the replies.
 
I didn’t do anything special regarding the paint. I did use a rivet removal tool, but noticed no “tearing away” of the paint around the rivet area. The type of paint might possibly make a difference, but no issue for me. I did apply some touch-up paint on the new rivets, but it was probably a bit anal of me to do so, as the bare rivet heads weren’t really noticeable.
 
A question for those of you that have already completed SB-00053 on a painted RV-12 … did you lose a lot of paint surrounding the removed rivets?

Anyone take the time to use a razor blade or x-acto knife blade to lightly score the paint around the base of the rivets prior to removing the rivets? If so, how well did that work for you?

Thanks in advance for the replies.

I used a sharpened metal tube to score the paint. Actually it was a .223 brass bullet casing sharpened using a few passes on the inside with an exactly knife. Place this tool over the head of the rivet and twist to score the paint.
 
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Sorry about info, says doesn't work on dome head rivets. I thought I found something like it many years ago that would work, but didn't buy it.
 
Painted Rivet Removal

I have a small set of leather punches for making holes in leather of various sizes. One of them fits perfectly over painted rivet heads. All it takes is a couple of spins on the rivet head by hand and it will come out clean..........Tom
 
I totally failed installing the service bulletin.
The rivet heads face aft of the bulkheads on my Aircraft and I was unable to punch out the stems in order to drill the rivets. I tried the lowest rivet because that would be the most difficult one. After one hour of working on that rivet I hurt my back and it took two hours to get myself out of the tail. Got blood all over the baggage compartment.
I’m an A&P and ATP over 6,000 hours and dealing with airplanes along time.
Do not go back in the tailcone without someone knowing you’re there because I didn’t think I was gonna be able to get out
 
I totally failed installing the service bulletin.
The rivet heads face aft of the bulkheads on my Aircraft and I was unable to punch out the stems in order to drill the rivets.

My rivets heads also faced backwards. Really not a problem... Don't worry about punching out stems - just drill off the rivet head. I used 90 degree drill motor. Then use plier / side cutter to extract rivet shank.

You think that was fun.... Wait for broken counterweight SB... :eek:
 
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Removing Pop Rivet Stems

While doing this S/B, I discovered that a Pneumatic Mini Palm Nailer works great for driving out the old stems. Hardest part is fining the right 'bit' to use for driving. I was using the stem from a new rivet that was ground flat.
 
Subtle crack

I did SB-00053 on my 1400 hour RV-12 last weekend. I'd say it wasn't too bad but I wasn't the guy in the tail cone, my buddy was. He didn't complain so it couldn't have been too bad.

We found a nice big obvious crack at F-1208, stop drilled it, put on a doubler, and moved on. The rest looked OK. We buttoned it up, and put on the cover, and finished for the day.

Later that night I got to looking at photos. As I said the crack at F-1208 was obvious. What wasn't obvious was the crack at F-1210, all the way back near the tail. I didn't notice it until I zoomed in on the photo that night. Luckily we haven't put the fuel tank back in yet.

I guess the moral of the story is that some cracks are move obvious than others. Be sure to take a good close look when you do the inspection.

Bob
 

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While doing this S/B, I discovered that a Pneumatic Mini Palm Nailer works great for driving out the old stems. Hardest part is fining the right 'bit' to use for driving. I was using the stem from a new rivet that was ground flat.

My solution was to grind down the tip of an adjustable spring-loaded center punch, it didn't take much. One little pop and done, no muss, no fuss. May need to adjust the force down a little bit on sensitive areas.
 
Switch to Two Piece Baggage Bulkhead?

We have a 2014 RV-12 and just learned about this SB this week.

Somewhere in this thread, someone mentioned switching from a one piece baggage bulkhead access panel to a two piece panel, to help make inspections in the future easier.

Does anyone know the part number(s) for the two piece? I'm assuming it bolts in the same?

thanks!!
 
You’ll it find on Vans website listed as “12 Baggage Upgrade”. If you type “baggage bulkhead” into the search box it’s about the first thing that pops up. Listed at around $36. Will definitely make life easier. Many earlier builders did DIY versions before it became an available option.
Cheers DaveH
 
if you don't need the bulkhead to avoid taking out the tank turn the bulkhead upside down. then you do have a useful inspection hole and it is on top.
 
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