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  #11  
Old 01-20-2021, 07:00 PM
KiloFoxtrot's Avatar
KiloFoxtrot KiloFoxtrot is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: IL
Posts: 58
Default Thanks for the help!!!

Hey Gents,

I Thank You ALL for responding which really helps my understanding when I get stuck on things during the build. Airframe construction and painting was much easier than Avionics and Electrical from a straight forward understanding.
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Superior IO-360-M1S Aerosport build school=Excellent. See post: Engine build school pictures IO-360
Tail / Fuse / Wings are complete + painted. I used Sherwin Williams JetGlo solids and AcryGlo metalics.
Leather seats by Flightline Interiors.
Still to do: Firewall forward, cowling fit and paint, G3X avionics.
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  #12  
Old 01-21-2021, 08:18 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,406
Default A little mistake

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Tierney View Post
Here's where I put mine on an RV-7A, based on others examples, and it has worked OK.
The second ANL holder is empty, for a future backup alternator if needed.
I think I got the ANL holders with covers from West Marine.
I made a little mistake in my layout. It is hard to get to the sense screws on the shunt. I got it wired but it is going to be tough to change the shunt wires if I ever have to. Oh well. Good thing I dont have to pay anybody to work on it!
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WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
Tail 98% done
Wings 98% done
Fuselage Kit 98% done
Finishing Kit 35% canopy done for now
Electrical 85% in work
Firewall Forward 5% in work
Fiberglass 0%, thought i was building in metal?
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com
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  #13  
Old 01-21-2021, 08:28 PM
rapid_ascent rapid_ascent is online now
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dublin, CA
Posts: 1,454
Default

I have a similar situation where my two shunts are close together which makes getting to the sense screws difficult. I don't really see it as a big issue though. I'm going to attach fusible links to these screws and that can be done before I attach the shunts to the firewall. If I need to replace them for some reason I can just unscrew the shunt from the firewall.
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  #14  
Old 01-22-2021, 09:12 AM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,406
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rapid_ascent View Post
I have a similar situation where my two shunts are close together which makes getting to the sense screws difficult. I don't really see it as a big issue though. I'm going to attach fusible links to these screws and that can be done before I attach the shunts to the firewall. If I need to replace them for some reason I can just unscrew the shunt from the firewall.
My solution is that at next service, I will put the sense wires on the same terminal as the bus wires. But the sense wire terminals must be on the bottom next to the brass blocks. There will be a slight error in the reading because of the extra contact resistance and the main current flow, but I can either calibrate that out, or not worry about it; I am not using the shunt current for any math so if i am off by 10%, I dont care.
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John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
Tail 98% done
Wings 98% done
Fuselage Kit 98% done
Finishing Kit 35% canopy done for now
Electrical 85% in work
Firewall Forward 5% in work
Fiberglass 0%, thought i was building in metal?
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com
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  #15  
Old 03-07-2021, 02:11 PM
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KiloFoxtrot KiloFoxtrot is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: IL
Posts: 58
Default Firewall. ANL fuse and Ammeter Shunt

I ended up with this layout and used 2 pieces of copper .032" making the bus .064". I applied that method for the copper bus between each lug. Once I have everything set up I will put heat shrink tubing on the bus between terminals. I was trying to keep everything neat and clean.

Using the Shunt that came with Garmin and laying it out this way I was told I would be able to monitor the Ammeter current and also the bus voltage on my G3X. If anyone has a G3X and wired their firewall in this manor and has advice or a gotcha please let me know.

Thanks
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__________________
RV7A tip up
Superior IO-360-M1S Aerosport build school=Excellent. See post: Engine build school pictures IO-360
Tail / Fuse / Wings are complete + painted. I used Sherwin Williams JetGlo solids and AcryGlo metalics.
Leather seats by Flightline Interiors.
Still to do: Firewall forward, cowling fit and paint, G3X avionics.
FLY
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  #16  
Old 03-07-2021, 02:59 PM
Dustyone Dustyone is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Brisbane,Austalia
Posts: 196
Default My Version on an RV-7

Mounted with nutplates for future sevice.



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  #17  
Old 03-07-2021, 03:27 PM
John Tierney John Tierney is online now
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Vonore, TN
Posts: 443
Default

If your battery box is not installed, think about moving the nutplates to the firewall, so the box can be removed FWF without having to crawl under the instrument panel.
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