Trim tab play - Fixed

My trim tab had quite a bit of play. The hole in the arm had probably been drilled with a # 30 drill bit (.1285) and was elongated a bit from wear. The clevis pin measured .122.




The hole in the arm was drilled out and a shortened -6 rivet was inserted. A # 32 drill bit (0.116) was used to start a hole in the factory head.




The rivet was squeezed, and through drilled with a # 32 drill bit. The factory head was ground to enable the assembly to fit back in the clevis, and the hole was reamed to .122.




All the play between the clevis and the trim tab arm is gone, and the clevis pin now runs in the .140 thick manufactured bushing rather than the two pieces of .032? aluminum that make up the arm.

Nicely done!

That's a good fix, well thought out. It gives a greater bearing area than if you'd merely put in a 3/16" pivot pin. Of course, you'll have to keep an eye out for the rivet rotating. Perhaps you could mark it.

If you were doing it anew, it might be worth staking the hole before riveting in a way that would provide an anti-rotation feature for the rivet. But for now, checking it on the condition inspection should suffice.

Good job.

Dave

add some wicking loctite 290 to the rivet head contact. looks fine to me.

Dave and Steve,

Both good suggestions; I'll take heed.

The rivet was driven and so is clinched against both sides of the arm as well as the inside diameter of the enlarged hole. It showed no propensity to rotate while the manufactured head was being ground down. The clevis pin is a sliding (not press) fit in the bushing and turns fairly easily.

I'll mark the bushing and watch it as well as treat it to some green loctite