What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Having an issue removing oil filter

J

jimgreen

Well Known Member
Tried to remove the oil filter this morning and it won't budge. I'm doing this early, 15hrs after the oil change to investigate metal in the filter, so it has only been on for 6 weeks. I installed it as usual with a wipe of engine oil on the rubber seal and torqued to spec. Never had this problem before.
My ring wrench was starting to graunch the nut end of the filter so I stopped before completely ruining it.
Any good ideas from the motor heads?
 
Get one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-to-4-1-4-quarter-inch-oil-filter-wrench-36778.html
image_17544.jpg
 
Last edited:
Filter...

Norman- if you can get pressure on it- hold that pressure- it will begin to move slowly- keep that pressure- it will slowly release. Because its a rubber seal- it won't break loose like a bolt and nut.
 
qtrmiledan said:
Norman- if you can get pressure on it- hold that pressure- it will begin to move slowly- keep that pressure- it will slowly release. Because its a rubber seal- it won't break loose like a bolt and nut.
Click to expand...

I have never had a problem removing an oil filter using engine oil to lube the rubber gasket!
 
Original filter from Aerosport Power ...

... was on so tight, I schmeared the hex fitting so a socket would spin on it. Tried a metal strap oil filter wrench ... no joy. Finally got it off with a fabric strap wrench that a fellow RVer had, thatwrapped around the filter body more than once. Completely crushed the filter can in the process, but it did come off. When I put new ones on now, I use a torque wrench and never apply more than the spec'd 16 ft-lbs. No problems since.
 
Thanks for the ideas guys. Wondered about a strap wrench but thought I'd check the collective brain first.
 
Well you are taking it off

It only matters that it comes off not what its now useless body looks like. I use a standard metal automotive oil filter strap wrench. I sometimes leaves small indentions in the side of the can but it always comes off.

Bob Axsom
 
On my most recent oil change I felt my filter was never coming off. But, what Danny said worked - I held some constant pressure and it started to ease free.
 
The SAE standard for oil filters is 1.5 turns after the gasket touches. The gasket must meet the pulsator test at 1 turn for good measure.

Why don't we use 1.5 turns instead of this (silly) torque standard? Is there an aviation only oil filter standard? I think not, unless someone can quote a standard test number.

There is no more a difficult application than hydraulic or diesel lube systems due to the high dynamic pressures, they both use the 1.5 turn installation standard.

Added: Yes, Longranger it is 3- 1/4 turns not 3- 1/2 turns. Thanks for the save!
 
Last edited:
any time i changed my filter all i ever did was hand tighten it and then safety wired it never had a problem and i did areobatics alot.. never had any problems getting it off or any leaks...
 
BillL said:
The SAE standard for oil filters is 1.5 turns after the gasket touches. The gasket must meet the pulsator test at 1 turn for good measure.

Why don't we use 1.5 turns instead of this (silly) torque standard? Is there an aviation only oil filter standard? I think not, unless someone can quote a standard test number.

There is no more a difficult application than hydraulic or diesel lube systems due to the high dynamic pressures, they both use the 1.5 turn installation standard.
Click to expand...

Hmmm... every oil filter I've ever changed says 3/4 turn right on the filter. I mark the rim wth a Sharpie, then hand turn 270 degrees. Never had a leak, and I only have a problem removing a filter when I don't use DC-4.
 
Dow Corning 4

Two IA/AP guys have recommended DC4 to me. I have some, and will use it in the future. It's also good for lubing spark plug wire ends before they slide inside the plug. I thought that was a bunch of hooey, but recently needed to replace a harness wire on my Bonanza because the silicone shielding was torn and grounding out, probably from spinning during the tightening process. Not hard to replace, but over a hundred bucks.

A tube of DC-4 is a lot cheaper.

I tend to trust one of the IAs... I think he's about 87 or so and has been doing this for quite a while.


Don
 
I have one of Allan's oil filter wrenches, and it is GREAT.

But, it would be easy to over-torque during installation.

I prefer hand-tight. I mark the filter after slightly snug, and then turn 3/4 turn (270 degrees) or a bit LESS.

No leaks.

I am of the belief that over-torqueing the filters, and not using Dow DC-4, are the root causes of the issue.

i.e. : Put a little DC-4 on the gasket, turn it on by hand, and snug it up. Safety wire to make yourself feel good, and it won't leak, and it won't fall off.

Next oil change will be just as messy, but no problem getting the filter off with Allan's wrench! :)

My Two Dollars. And YMMV. Don't blame any leaks or stuck filters on me!!:p
 
OK, what worked was a Snap on strap wrench, the kind that takes a 1/2" drive on the end.Lent to me by a generous helicopter mechanic. No clearance for a socket on the end, though I think the 6 point socket would have worked.
I can't see why they call for such a high torque since it's lock wired anyhow.
 
remember when that happened on your first car [in the 60's]?
hammer a screwdriver thru the stuck oil filter and unscrew it !
 
I have removed hundreds if not thousands of filters with the one pictured on post two. Oil filters are girly compaired to diesel fuel filters.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top