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Tight Rivet on RV-10 Rudder

ppilotmike

Well Known Member
I am in the process of riveting my rudder together and have a question about how in the heck you guys riveted the tight little area at the bottom of the rudder, trailing edge side, where the bottom-most stiffener (with the rudder horn) comes together into a near point. The plans call for a regular flush rivet, but (as far as I can tell) there's no way to get a bucking bar in there, or my pneumatic squeezer. I'd rather not use a pop rivet, since they don't call for one in the plans. Any ideas?
 
as I recall I was able to get it with the no hole yoke on the squeezer.
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EDIT: My mistake. See note below.
 
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Mike,

I have a 4" no hole yoke for the my squeezer that just fits for rivet, if you look I believe the plans call for a pop rivet on the opposite side due to clearance but I'm coming off memory on that. The EAA videos have a good one for offset riveting in tight spots that has a few good tips as well. Basically you back rivet using the manufactured head on the plate and insert a thin steel bar on the shop side and apply the rivet gun to the bar outside of the skin...neat idea but haven't tried it.
 
I just looked at mine (it's in my office) and I used solid rivets on both sides. I am guessing I used that indirect method and just don't recall it.

I don't think there is room in there for the no hole yoke.
 
Even after building two of them (5 years apart) I can't recall:rolleyes: I know there is one area in the tail feathers where it calls out for a pop rivet on one side and a standard on the other...maybe the elevators...jeez built four of them!:eek:

Brent,

You really like your project! What part are you taking to the office next week?;)
 
Is it "take your RV to work" week already? ;)

I used a pop rivet and was not happy with the result; the unformed tail of the pop rivet clashed with the rivet on the other side and allowed the skin to lift away from the rib. It's on my punch list to drill out and replace. When I do, I will drive the solid rivet a little flatter (slightly overdriving won't hurt here) and then use the indirect method to put a new solid rivet where the pop rivet was.
 
Thanks.

Thanks guys for all your responses. The instructions do clearly call for a pop rivet on at least one side. It is unclear whether they mean that both sides get pop rivets. There's definitely not enough room for the no-hole yoke (I have one and tried that first). I don't believe there is enough room for indirect riveting either. I was trying to rivet this way using a spanner-type tool (about 3/16" thick metal), and it would barely fit. I don't see any harm in using pop rivets for both sides, since it appears they will both fit, it you use a hand pop rivet puller to start the rivet first, then push the rest of the way in and pull it clean the rest of the way. That's what I'll try and hopefully it'll turn out. If not, I'll drill it out and try again.:(
 
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