What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Wing Leading Edge replacement

Mr Nipper

Member
I am involved in a repair of an RV7 which I did not build.....I have not built an RV either.
The LE has been badly damaged and needs replacing. The damage is all up to but not including the fuel tank. As I understand the build of the a/c the LE is the first thing that is riveted to the spar. I am in effect reverse-engineering this repair as I don't want to dismantle the whole wing and start again.
Does anyone have any experience of this repair please?
I am thinking that I need to build a new LE, and some-how access the inside of the wing to use a Cherry Max rivet to fit the nose ribs to the spar, and Cherry rivets to attach the wing skin to the spar........any suggestions and recommendations very welcome please.
Perhaps on the bottom LE skin an inspection hatch located midway between the tip and the fuel tank may allow access?
Thanks
Neil
dateposted-public

dateposted-public

dateposted-public
 

Attachments

  • RV7 wing 1.jpg
    RV7 wing 1.jpg
    124.3 KB · Views: 409
  • RV7 wing 2.jpg
    RV7 wing 2.jpg
    164.9 KB · Views: 406
  • RV7 wing 3.jpg
    RV7 wing 3.jpg
    118.1 KB · Views: 423
Last edited:
Step 1: Remove the fuel tank.

Step 2: Drill the skin off of the ribs.

Step 3: Drill the ribs off of the spar.

Step 4: Examine how long your arms are. Will you be able to rivet the ribs to the spar (maybe using Cherrymax rivets), and later rivet the skin to the ribs (maybe using a few pop rivets to close out the bottom)? Obviously, sticking your arm inside to buck the rivets is the limiting factor. Anyway, that would be my first choice of how to proceed.

That said, I'd call the factory. I'm sure they have seen this type damage before and can give you an idea of how this type repair has been done in the past.
 
Wow! Thank you Kyle, fast response.
I have been in touch with VANS, but even after asking they haven't been forthcoming with a repair scheme, just drip feeding me. They are happy with using Cherry Max rivets to fit the ribs to the spar, but have not yet confirmed that they would endorse using C/S Cherry M for the skin to spar.
I cannot see that it should be a problem, since the assembly doesn't really add much to the strength of the spar, just a D box for twisting forces.
It is the access to buck solid rivets that I can't get my head around, as the skin rivets are on the back of the spar. Even getting a hand squeezer for the CM rivets inside the LE of the wing I imagine is a pig.
I have not got the a/c yet, just trying to get a repair scheme together so I can order up parts.
 
Thank you Paul, great help......so it looks like you can access the rear of the spar to buck the skin rivets.....with very long arms!
 
Same repair but RV9A

We had the same scenario with an RV9A, drilled off the skin and ribs, replaced with all new from Van's, no pulled rivets required. With the wingtip off and one additional inspection hatch in the new skin it was totally doable, tank or main skin removal not necessary.
 
I know this may sound unusual, but check to see if the wing spar is bent at the fuselage backward. A dent in the wing which seems to be insignificant may have been enough to bend the spar in some amount. Probably you have check it already, but it was not mentioned in the conservation. I have seen that happen in a plane I know. It still flies, but is bent ever so slightly.
 
Another option is to get a price on a single QB wing. I know a -8 driver that went that route. Not the cheapest, but definitely an option.
 
Good point DaveO, not checked that yet.
It is an insurance job, so this is why I am trying to get as much info' as I can before I start work.
There is an "upon further inspection" rider, so I am not tied to a quote.
Thank you Gents.
 
Last edited:
We had the same scenario with an RV9A, drilled off the skin and ribs, replaced with all new from Van's, no pulled rivets required. With the wingtip off and one additional inspection hatch in the new skin it was totally doable, tank or main skin removal not necessary.

The same here. Shed both leading edge skins couple years ago. Non event just time consuming. Took the whole weekend for two of us.

changing_leading_edges_1.jpg
 
Leading edge

I've replaced leading edges on several 7s and 8s with no cherry rivets. I recommend replacing the ribs instead of trying to drill out the old ones. When the old ones were riveted it swells out the hole then when you drill it out the holes are too big for the new rivets.
 
Back
Top