Bead breaking secrets needed

[plehrke]

Originally Posted by LettersFromFlyoverCountry

I finally got it off using a combination vice, C-clamps, and the HF tool. It feels like the tube took a tremendous beating in the process. I may just order new tubes for the sake of security.

I always replace the tubes when I replace the tires. Maybe a bit conservative but just a practice I have always done.

[scard]

A dab of 100LL around the bead per Rosie!

[Bill Boyd]

Originally Posted by ChiefPilot

I do the stand-on-it trick as well but first lay the wheel on it's side and pour a small amount of wing solvent around the rim and let it sit for a few minutes. Rarely any jumping required doing so. I don't remember who first mentioned this idea (Pete Howell maybe?) but it works great.

Okay, I'll bite. What's wing solvent and what's in it - re-branded 100LL? If I get this stuff on my wings by accident, do they melt?

-Stormy

[RV6_flyer]

Originally Posted by plehrke

I always replace the tubes when I replace the tires. Maybe a bit conservative but just a practice I have always done.

I also am conservative. I replaced my tubes once in 18-years and 3,060 Hobbs hours.

[RV6_flyer]

Originally Posted by Bill Boyd

Okay, I'll bite. What's wing solvent and what's in it - re-branded 100LL? If I get this stuff on my wings by accident, do they melt?

-Stormy

Wing Solvent is listed and recommended in Post #12. (AKA: AvGas)

Has not melted any RV wings that I know of. It has caused paint damage and I have seen one video were it was being poured into the wings, generated a static charge, and caught the wing on fire.

[GLPalinkas]

Originally Posted by Kyle Boatright

I deflate the tube, then place the tire/wheel flat on a piece of plywood near a hangar wall. The plywood keeps the wheel from getting scuffed up, and the hangar wall gives me something to brace against. Then, I stand on the tire taking care to keep my feet off of the wheel. I rock back and forth a few times and the bead pops loose. Then I flip the tire and do the other side.

I weigh about 160, so this isn't a heroic feat.

Like Kyle, I have used this technique ever since I can remember (Taylorcraft for 18 years). That is until I first tried my Desser Monster Retreads, like Bob, they wouldn't budge. Maybe more surface area, etc?

Anyway, here is my tip: Took it to the local FBO who used a very large bead breaker (and dishwasher liquid, of course) Took him a few minutes also. He said it was one of the tougher ones he's had. No charge by the way. I bought him a beer anyway.

[rvmills]

The builder-guru two doors over taught me this little trick. When re-assembling the wheel to the tire, put a little bead of dishwashing liquid on the tire surface contact area that sits under the wheel (I just spread it on with my finger). When it comes time to disassemble the next time, after deflating, put a little water in the crease between the tire and the wheel. Let soak a bit, then proceed with your bead-breaking technique (I stand on mine and rock a bit too).

He swears by it, and it seems to work OK. Just one technique.

I change my tubes more often than Gary...does that make me more conservative than you Condor?

And "wing solvent"...Nyuck, Nyuck! The wings don't dissolve in the stuff do they?

Cheers,
Bob

[Bill Boyd]

Plywood pieces for manual bead-braking on RV tires:

[woodmanrog]

The above post is a great idea. And you will have Popeye forearms after doing a few tires.

[Bill Boyd]

you should already have Popeye forearms after building an RV. You're not cheating yourself out of a flexor workout by using a pneumatic cleco tool, are you?

Just remember to use the thick wood block in the center for the second wheel half, so there's something to bear against. And be careful not to pinch the tube.

-Stormy