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  #21  
Old 12-14-2015, 10:25 PM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 2,344
Default Cut It Out

Cut it out and pour it again. The paint/sealing idea may look good initially but in the long run you will be unhappy with it. Especially when you get gas and oil dripped on it, and worse yet, rubber tires rolling across it. Haven't found many products that will not lift under this kind of use and then it will look really bad.

Do it right and cut it out...
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Aerospace Engineer '88

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  #22  
Old 12-15-2015, 02:05 AM
RVDREMEN RVDREMEN is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 18
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Sorry to hear of your problems. I would definitely not cut it out if it is stable. This may be to $$$ but what would be really nice is to put a self leveling overlay on it. This would provide you a very level surface that is also very hard like 5000 psi and up.There are several products out there like Ardex, Rapid Set TRU and many others. The main thing is to get someone who really knows how to do overlays. There are plenty around the DFW area. And if you want to polish it you will have a very nice floor like in many stores. You can also stain it. http://www.ctscement.com/rapid-set-tru-self-leveling/
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  #23  
Old 12-15-2015, 07:55 AM
RV6Bldr's Avatar
RV6Bldr RV6Bldr is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Anthony, New Mexico
Posts: 9
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Have the Contractor use a transit / level, measure the floor, you will know from the measurements if it's the floor or the door. My guess, it' s the floor.

rv6bldr
Retired builder, I have built a few 1000 + houses the past 40 years.
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  #24  
Old 12-15-2015, 08:09 AM
6 Gun 6 Gun is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 846
Default floor

I would do the overlay and cap it off right next to the inside of the door were it is a half to three quarters higher and let the bottom of the door sit lower than the cap so no water can run under the door and inside.
Bob
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  #25  
Old 12-15-2015, 11:10 AM
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jeffw@sc47 jeffw@sc47 is online now
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Simpsonville, SC (SC47)
Posts: 364
Default

Only seeing as much as you can show and describe in your post, I would lean away from messing with trying to level the concrete. Going the way of adjusting the door/door frame and/or adjusting with the bottom door seal would be how I would study it.

Cutting/grinding the concrete may be a solution but only in a strip that coincides with the seal area of the door frame bottom.
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Simpsonville, SC (@SC47 > 10nm NW Triple Tree)
1946 Bellanca Cruisair 14-13-2 (74 YRS OLD 8/1/20)
RV14A (N14ZT), Ser#140195, Start 10/11/14
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Last edited by jeffw@sc47 : 12-15-2015 at 11:21 AM.
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  #26  
Old 12-15-2015, 11:37 AM
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Mhead Mhead is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Northwest Arkansas
Posts: 106
Default

If it was me, I would have them saw cut the perimeter of the bad part, remove the slab and repour it. Every other proposed fix on this post is a bandaid that will save the contractor money now, but will cost you headaches and money in the future. You are paying for a new concrete floor installed correctly, that is what you should get.
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Last edited by Mhead : 12-15-2015 at 11:42 AM.
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  #27  
Old 12-15-2015, 11:39 AM
JimRice JimRice is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Collierville, TN
Posts: 99
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I'd shy away from trying to float and level. Nothing I've found works long term and it will eventually separate. I run maintenance ops for a large retail business and have had no luck, especially over large areas or has much traffic/usage.

Grinding is an option. How thick is the slab? Three quarters of an inch could be a significant percentage of total thickness. Less total thickness weakens the concrete.

Best solution is cutting out and repouring. Drill and pin with rebar every 12-18" to ensure the sections are well tied together. Ensure base is proper for the soil type and compacted prior to repouring. Ensure control joints are cut within 24 hours of pouring to keep cracking within the cuts. Control joints should be on a rule of three. Four inches of concrete should have control joints cut no more than every 12 feet (4 inches times 3, scaled up to feet). Six inches, 18 feet. Personally, I never go less than 15' and prefer 12'. Thicker concrete can also make up for lots of other errors.
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Collierville, TN

1994 RV-4 N4WJ (Purchased/Flying)
1946 J-3 Cub N7155H (Restored/Flying)
1946 Globe Swift N3368K (Purchased Restored/Flying SOLD)
1987 Starduster Too SA-300 (Purchased/Flying/SOLD)
1994 V6STOL (Built w/dad/SOLD)

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  #28  
Old 12-15-2015, 02:32 PM
Boyd Birchler Boyd Birchler is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: IN
Posts: 254
Default Grind concrete floor

My hangar has a 12' x 10 foot area that was ground down by some method, long before I got the hangar, to remove a hump in the floor. Who,how or how much I do not know, but it worked well. It is flat in those areas and does not hold water.
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  #29  
Old 12-15-2015, 08:38 PM
Yen Yen is offline
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Benaraby Queensland. Australia
Posts: 220
Default

If you have it ground down you are reducing the cover on the reinforcing steel, that is assuming it is reinforced. You are also reducing the thickness, neither of which is a good idea. With it that far out of level I would assune the contractor who poued it was not competent and would not assume that the depth was correct or sufficient.
Topping is OK but you end up with a thin skin, which is difficul to bond to the existing surface. Before long you could have drumminess leading to surface failure. Cut it out and re pour, with dowel rods into the adjacent slab.
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  #30  
Old 12-25-2019, 10:28 PM
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Pilot135pd Pilot135pd is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Vaca Moo Airport - TA37 in East TEXAS
Posts: 1,383
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by UnPossible View Post
Hey - we are just a few weeks out from moving into a new home at the airpark in Pecan Plantation. However, we have run into a minor snag with the hangar that we are having built. In the pic below, you can see that the concrete floor rises as you move to the left... it looks like for whatever reason the last 10 feet or so is 3/4" higher than the rest of the floor. The rest of the floor to the right (which you can't see in the pic) looks to be level, as the gap appears consistent.

We are working with the contractor to figure out a solution, but they are coming up blank, so I figured I'd turn the the VAF experts. Is there anyway to grind down the last 10' or so by the required 3/4" to get things back to level?

If not, what is the least bad approach to fix this? Jack hammer it out down to 6" and repour?... entirely cut out that section and repour?

Thanks,
Jason

What did you end up doing? I just poured 3 hangars and was thinking about painting the floor just to make it nicer looking.
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