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SB-00036 posted: Inspect outboard elev hinge bracket area of most RV models

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greghughespdx

Well Known Member
Advertiser
Update: 2/3/23: 0048Z
Updated SB here: https://www.vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=213921
This thread now closed so you can get the revised SB at the new thread. v/r,dr





We have posted Service Bulletin Document SB-00036, which directs owners of applicable RV models to inspect the outboard elevator hinge bracket area for cracks.

This service bulletin applies to RV-3/4/6/7/8/9/10 and 14, and A-model variants.

Van's has received reports of a small number of aircraft with high flight-time hours, on which cracks have been found at the outboard elevator hinge attach location. The service bulletin linked above includes photographs and a description of the issue, how to inspect, and if necessary how to repair and replace the elevator hinge brackets. For owners who find they need to replace the parts, we have assembled kits with the necessary parts, which can be ordered on our web store. The kits and part numbers are included in the service bulletin document.

NOTE: If you determine you need to order the available SB kit parts and need to do so for multiple aircraft (which should be a highly unusual situation), it is important that you place one web store order per aircraft. We will not ship SB kits for multiple aircraft on a single order. We will work to combine shipping if you place the orders one after the other, but for tracking purposes we must have individual aircraft serial numbers specified for each SB kit, each on its own web store order.
 
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Clarification

A suggestion for clarification on the SB-00036

Figure 5 calls out HS-715C and D, non-pre-punched brackets, and
HS-715E,F pre-punched brackets. Under what circumstances would pre-punched or non pre-punched brackets be used?

If I had to guess, I would think that the non pre-punched brackets, HS-715C,D would be for the RV-4,6 and the pre-punched brackets, HS-715E,F would be for the RV-7,8.

But we shouldn't be left to guess.
 
But we shouldn't be left to guess.

Hi Steve - thanks for the clarification suggestion, I can take a deeper look tomorrow.

However, the kits that are posted on our web store are in fact model specific and labeled that way, and the parts found in each kit align as you deduced.

SB-00036-KIT4/6 is for the RV-4/6/6A:
  • (0.01) AN426AD3-5
  • (0.01) AN470AD4-5
  • (1) DOC SB-00036
  • (2) HS-00715C
  • (2) HS-00715D
  • (10) RIVET CR3213-4-2

SB-00036-PP (note the suffix, yep, pre-punched) is for the RV-7/7A/8/8A:
  • (0.01) AN426AD3-5
  • (0.01) AN470AD4-5
  • (2) HS-00715E
  • (2) HS-00715F
  • (10) RIVET CR3213-4-2
 
Thanks Greg!


Hi Steve - thanks for the clarification suggestion, I can take a deeper look tomorrow.

However, the kits that are posted on our web store are in fact model specific and labeled that way, and the parts found in each kit align as you deduced.

SB-00036-KIT4/6 is for the RV-4/6/6A:
  • (0.01) AN426AD3-5
  • (0.01) AN470AD4-5
  • (1) DOC SB-00036
  • (2) HS-00715C
  • (2) HS-00715D
  • (10) RIVET CR3213-4-2

SB-00036-PP (note the suffix, yep, pre-punched) is for the RV-7/7A/8/8A:
  • (0.01) AN426AD3-5
  • (0.01) AN470AD4-5
  • (2) HS-00715E
  • (2) HS-00715F
  • (10) RIVET CR3213-4-2
 
I'll likely be incorporating this mod during my annual next month, but for those of us that have glassed in the end ribs of our tails, this is going to suck. I think it will probably be easier to remove a 12" section of skin rivets than it would be to drill out the fiberglass filler on the end caps.
 
NOTE: If an inspection of an RV-3, RV-9, RV-10, or RV-14 airframe reveals cracks, contact Van’s Technical Support to obtain information needed to comply with this service bulletin

What’s different about the -3, -9/9A, 10, and 14? Do they have a different repair procedure, or is such cracking less likely in those models?
 
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We have posted Service Bulletin Document SB-00036, which directs owners of applicable RV models to inspect the outboard elevator hinge bracket area for cracks.

This service bulletin applies to RV-3/4/6/7/8/10 and 14, and A-model variants.

Van's has received reports of a small number of aircraft with high flight-time hours, on which cracks have been found at the outboard elevator hinge attach location. The service bulletin linked above includes photographs and a description of the issue, how to inspect, and if necessary how to repair and replace the elevator hinge brackets. For owners who find they need to replace the parts, we have assembled kits with the necessary parts, which can be ordered on our web store. The kits and part numbers are included in the service bulletin document.

NOTE: If you determine you need to order the available SB kit parts and need to do so for multiple aircraft (which should be a highly unusual situation), it is important that you place one web store order per aircraft. We will not ship SB kits for multiple aircraft on a single order. We will work to combine shipping if you place the orders one after the other, but for tracking purposes we must have individual aircraft serial numbers specified for each SB kit, each on its own web store order.​

Just read the SB and noticed that the SB calls out the 9, but the text above excludes it. Thought you would want to fix that.

Larry
 
It would appear

What’s different about the -3, -9/9A, 10, and 14? Do they have a different repair procedure, or is such cracking less likely in those models?


It would appear that the sample cracks were found in aerobatic aircraft; hopefully the -10 would be less likely to crack.

Glad I didn’t glass the hs tip ribs over!
 
In respect to the 3/9/10/14, it sounds like you're putting them on a permanent inspection cycle? I know it says call if you find damage, but without a parts kit for those models to proactively replace the mounts, they just get an additional inspection at every annual?
 
In respect to the 3/9/10/14, it sounds like you're putting them on a permanent inspection cycle? I know it says call if you find damage, but without a parts kit for those models to proactively replace the mounts, they just get an additional inspection at every annual?

Yes, as described in the SB doc, inspect all models annually for the specific issue unless/until new parts are installed.

For 3/9/10/14, inspect and if cracks are found (not anticipated at this point in time since the design is different), contact the Van's technical support team.

For the 4/6/7/8, inspect and if no cracks are found reinspect every 12 months and replace with the new parts when desired/needed. If cracks are found, perform the repair and parts replacement. If the replacement has been performed, the SB no longer applies but in reality, you should still be inspecting that area during annual condition inspections as a matter of course. The SB is meant to address the specific area for an identified potential issue, but it doesn't mean the area never needs to be inspected again.
 
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Greg,

Thanks for the SB (I've read it) and making parts available.

Can you give us a little more information than the SB contains on how many airplanes and which models you are aware of that were found to have these cracks to date? And also how many hours on them and their use background, if known? Was one of the airplanes the RV-7 factory demonstrator/transition trainer that Mike uses? I understand all the models may be susceptible to cracking due to the design and flight environment.

Has there been any reports of cracking in the RS of the vertical tail around the upper rudder hinge?

The engineer in me is curious.

Thanks.
 
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Greg, I am literally a few days away from finishing my HS. The HS rear spar is complete and primed, but not installed in the skin. What is the guidance for those who have the emp kit and haven’t built the HS yet? Will you guys send parts for the mod? Should I wait to finish HS pending new hinge brackets? It seems logical to install the new brackets now before assembling the HS.

Brian Robbins
RV14
 
Borescope Access to forward side of spar

Plane is finished and flying. Aft inspection of hinge/spar area shows no cracks present. End caps have been fiberglassed over.

@Greg, would it be permissible to drill a borescope access hole in the middle of the spar, inboard of the HS-413PP hinge? This would facilitate repeated inspection of the forward side of the spar.
 
Disclaimer, I'm not a builder so forgive me for not knowing what I don't know.

My HS tips are glassed into the HS so I'd rather not cut it out to get a look behind the hinge. Is there any other way to get a look without hacking up my nice looking finish?
 
Disclaimer, I'm not a builder so forgive me for not knowing what I don't know.

My HS tips are glassed into the HS so I'd rather not cut it out to get a look behind the hinge. Is there any other way to get a look without hacking up my nice looking finish?

The aft tooling hole suggested in the SB as the inspection point is in the area aft of the fiberglass tip rib, under the elevator counterweight horn. It would only be an access problem for those that have covered the end of the HS to be flat in the area where the counterweight horn swings by.
 
The aft tooling hole suggested in the SB as the inspection point is in the area aft of the fiberglass tip rib, under the elevator counterweight horn. It would only be an access problem for those that have covered the end of the HS to be flat in the area where the counterweight horn swings by.

Thanks for the clarification. This now makes sense.
 

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Rv-10 -- Working on HS

I'm a newbie here. Just starting work on the RV-10 HS. I have the spars primed and are ready to rivet on the pivot brackets.

Do I need to do anything or just proceed with the build and do the inspection after xx hours of flight time?

I appreciate the insight.

Thanks,
Brad
RV-10 - Empennage Tail Kit -- WIP
 
Hi Greg,

I have completed my -14 HS - it’s sitting in the shed.

It would be easier for me to install strengthened parts now rather than waiting to get the aeroplane finished and go do some aeros and then one day find cracks.

How is the -14 different in that you aren’t expecting cracks like the other models?
 
I'm a newbie here. Just starting work on the RV-10 HS. I have the spars primed and are ready to rivet on the pivot brackets.

Do I need to do anything or just proceed with the build and do the inspection after xx hours of flight time?

I appreciate the insight.

Thanks,
Brad
RV-10 - Empennage Tail Kit -- WIP

Ummm...get the new parts now and install them during the build?

Not sure why this is a question...
 
Considering there are no parts to install for the 10....

Then I guess the opposite answer applies...build on and inspect annually!

I.e., if you're still building, it's either one or the other depending on model. It's the completed planes that have some choices to make in the event of discovering cracks.
 
Then I guess the opposite answer applies...build on and inspect annually!

I.e., if you're still building, it's either one or the other depending on model. It's the completed planes that have some choices to make in the event of discovering cracks.

And the rest of us just need to preserve an inspection hole for a borescope.
 
And the rest of us just need to preserve an inspection hole for a borescope.

Yeah, I really hate the idea of even enlarging the hole that's there on my fully painted plane, just to do this inspection. Wish there were a better way (or a smaller diameter borescope LOL!).
 
The aft tooling hole suggested in the SB as the inspection point is in the area aft of the fiberglass tip rib, under the elevator counterweight horn. It would only be an access problem for those that have covered the end of the HS to be flat in the area where the counterweight horn swings by.

I'm one of those with the sealed end of the HS, so guess there are no other options.
 
RV-4 H.S. Inspection

I'm one of the unlucky ones who glassed over the outboard rib on my H.S. Thinking out loud here but wondering if someone would make a pattern of the outboard rib with the tooling hole then I could drill a 7/16" hole through the foam and fiberglass and on through the tooling hole located by the pattern. Maybe start with an 1/8" drill to make sure I'm in the proper location. Then to cover the hole just find one of those plastic plugs as long as it doesn't interfere with the counterweight.
Drilling some skin rivets out doesn't work either because you still have to break the skin loose from the foam and glass and mine has modelers cloth wrapping onto the skin. Hey at least the filler never cracked in 20 plus years !
Wide open for thoughts,
Duff
 
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I'm one of the unlucky ones who glassed over the outboard rib on my H.S. Thinking out loud here but wondering if someone would make a pattern of the outboard rib with the tooling hole then I could drill a 7/16" hole through the foam and fiberglass and on through the tooling hole located by the pattern. Maybe start with an 1/8" drill to make sure I'm in the proper location. Then to cover the hole just find one of those plastic plugs as long as it doesn't interfere with the counterweight.
Drilling some skin rivets out doesn't work either because you still have to break the skin loose from the foam and glass and mine has modelers cloth wrapping onto the skin. Hey at least the filler never cracked in 20 plus years !
Wide open for thoughts,
Duff

I wonder if drilling a hole in the bottom HS skin would be an acceptable option? Drill it in the middle of the "bay" and you could put a scope in there fairly easily. Close it up with snap plugs and you'd be able to inspect it annually. Of course, the repair ain't hard, so that may be the more expedient choice.
 
Glassing in the HS has been a debated topic for a long time. Build to plans sometimes collides with build what you want. However, the factory is only responsible for "built to plans".
If I had glassed in the HS, I would hold off on the inspection unless I had a higher time RV, and/or do a lot of aerobatics. You have 25 hours, or next CI regardless.
I will inspect my non-glassed HS before next flight, because it's easy access through that enlarged tooling hole.
Also, I will report what I find.

I would hope the factory, or someone here, would start a reporting process on this SB. Model, hours, type of flying, aerobatic hours, etc....

I am very interested to see how the high time airframes are doing. Paul? Rosie? Mike? What are we seeing out there? I assume the factory has inspected their fleet or is in the process? Greg?

This reminds me of the Rear Wing Spar SB, and the HS Spar SB's. Again, easy to inspect, but still don't know how many airplanes where affected, of what type, hours, etc....We even had scare tactics by some vendors who jumped to sell you a repair before your tail fell off!

More info would be good.
 
Would prepunched RV-6 HS use kit “SB-00036-PP”?

We have posted Service Bulletin Document SB-00036, which directs owners of applicable RV models to inspect the outboard elevator hinge bracket area for cracks.

This service bulletin applies to RV-3/4/6/7/8/9/10 and 14, and A-model variants.
.

SB 00036 says RV-4 and RV-6 use kit “SB-00036-KIT4/6” but maybe if an RV-6 HS is prepunched, kit “SB-00036-PP” could be used versus “SB-00036-KIT4/6”. I’m looking at which parts are prepunched on RV-6 dwg 3PP, happens to be R5 but the rev doesn’t matter in this case.

Edit: I’m thinking to order “SB-00036-KIT4/6” though to be safe/no surprises.
.
 
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I'm one of the unlucky ones who glassed over the outboard rib on my H.S. Thinking out loud here but wondering if someone would make a pattern of the outboard rib with the tooling hole then I could drill a 7/16" hole through the foam and fiberglass and on through the tooling hole located by the pattern. Maybe start with an 1/8" drill to make sure I'm in the proper location. Then to cover the hole just find one of those plastic plugs as long as it doesn't interfere with the counterweight.
Drilling some skin rivets out doesn't work either because you still have to break the skin loose from the foam and glass and mine has modelers cloth wrapping onto the skin. Hey at least the filler never cracked in 20 plus years !
Wide open for thoughts,
Duff

For those of you who have the tip rib covered:

The tooling hole is 7/8" forward of the AFT face of the HS rear spar, centered vertically in the tip rib. The tooling hole is about 3/16" and you are opening it to 7/16", so if you miss a little bit, you will still be fine.
 
SB-00036

Now that I am being forced into performing borescope inspections of my horizontal stabilizer, what is a good, reasonably priced borescope that will fit the bill for this inspection? Sorry to beat this “what’s a good borescope” dead horse one more time!
 
I'm one of those with the sealed end of the HS, so guess there are no other options.

My plan is to drill these rivets out and pull the skin away far enough to get a boroscope in there. Removing 12-18" of rivets here should allow enough slack in the skin to let it work. I'll inspect it to verify no cracking, and then replace the hinges. I should be able to get the old rivet heads out of this same gap as well. Hopefully I don't have to go anywhere near the sealed in end of the HS. I can squeeze new rivets in and hit them with a brush and some touch up paint and should be 99% unnoticable. Anyone see any issues with this?

FYI, I stole this picture fr online. Not my plane.
 

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SB 00036 says RV-4 and RV-6 use kit “SB-00036-KIT4/6” but I imagine if an RV-6 HS is prepunched, kit “SB-00036-PP” would be used versus “SB-00036-KIT4/6”. I’m looking at which parts are prepunched on RV-6 dwg 3PP, happens to be R5 but the rev doesn’t matter in this case.
.

I could be wrong, but I don't believe any RV6 HS Spars where ever prepunched for hinge brackets? Do you see something different?
My kit was "prepunch" but it was only pilot holes in some skins. It was a long time ago but I remember how daunting measuring and aligning the hinge brackets was.
One reason why each 6 is a little different than the next.
 

Gotcha. The brackets and skins might have been prepunched, but the spars and ribs would not have been. PP didn't mean "Match Drilled" like kits of today. Aligning prepunched holes in the new brackets might not be possible due to slightly different locations of the hinge brackets. You don't have to be off much for things not to work out when dealing with a #40 hole.
I suspect the new hinge brackets might be punched for the spar, if the factory is confident the old prepunched brackets where done accurately and repeatably enough, but not for the flange. Perhaps not for either.
(edit - even spacing between brackets might be off slightly, so there goes any prepunched new brackets I suspect. We shall see)
 
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I'm one of the unlucky ones who glassed over the outboard rib on my H.S. Thinking out loud here but wondering if someone would make a pattern of the outboard rib with the tooling hole then I could drill a 7/16" hole through the foam and fiberglass and on through the tooling hole located by the pattern. Maybe start with an 1/8" drill to make sure I'm in the proper location. Then to cover the hole just find one of those plastic plugs as long as it doesn't interfere with the counterweight.
Drilling some skin rivets out doesn't work either because you still have to break the skin loose from the foam and glass and mine has modelers cloth wrapping onto the skin. Hey at least the filler never cracked in 20 plus years !
Wide open for thoughts,
Duff

I just finished my 7A and the last thing I did was glass over the HS and elevator tips, so this is annoying. Obviously not as annoying as having an unsafe airplane though. I’d love to see a nice template that would help me locate an inspection hole.
 
I just finished my 7A and the last thing I did was glass over the HS and elevator tips, so this is annoying. Obviously not as annoying as having an unsafe airplane though. I’d love to see a nice template that would help me locate an inspection hole.

I would be pretty confident, if you measure 7/8" forward from the aft face of the rear HS spar, on the centerline of the rib, and drill a 1/8" hole, it will go right through the tooling hole. From there, just enlarge in steps with a unibit and you will be fine.
 
Now that I am being forced into performing borescope inspections of my horizontal stabilizer, what is a good, reasonably priced borescope that will fit the bill for this inspection? Sorry to beat this “what’s a good borescope” dead horse one more time!

I have an Oasis Scientific Vividia VA-400 and it's given me 4 years of trouble-free service. IIRC, some folks have had issues with some models of the Vividias, but I haven't. https://www.oasisscientific.com/store/c6/Articulating_Borescopes.html
 
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... what is a good, reasonably priced borescope that will fit the bill for this inspection? Sorry to beat this “what’s a good borescope” dead horse one more time!

I used to recommend the Vividia VA-400L (locking version). Plugs in to a laptop. It's good if it works. But the company has terrible customer service.

For about the same price ($279 on Amazon), I like the Teslong/Geecr TD500, 5" Steering Endoscope. It has it's own screen, and lets you store photos and videos to a tiny SD card. Also, the camera is waterproof.
 
I used to recommend the Vividia VA-400L (locking version). Plugs in to a laptop. It's good if it works. But the company has terrible customer service.

For about the same price ($279 on Amazon), I like the Teslong/Geecr TD500, 5" Steering Endoscope. It has it's own screen, and lets you store photos and videos to a tiny SD card. Also, the camera is waterproof.

+1 on the Teslong over the Vividia. I went through two of them before switching to Teslong.
 
+1 on the Teslong over the Vividia. I went through two of them before switching to Teslong.

I've had a different experience. I started out with a Vividia Ablescope 400 from 2015, but when resolution was a lot lower, although still good clarity. I decide to upgrade last year and bought a Teslong TD500, but found it was difficult to fully articulate, and then stay in position. I returned it and bought the newer Ablescope 400L - and really like it. I had their airbox already, so it was an easy upgrade and still use wirelessly with my iPad. Very good quality and high resolution images at 1280x720.

I've had good customer service from them; they did not have the locking model available, but when I called they said they would make one up for me and shipped the next day, and then also gave me a discount as a current customer upgrading. A very good experience for me.
 
I just finished my 7A and the last thing I did was glass over the HS and elevator tips, so this is annoying. Obviously not as annoying as having an unsafe airplane though. I’d love to see a nice template that would help me locate an inspection hole.

Our engineering staff has put together the below info after considering the need for some people to drill through areas that were filled in with extra materials. You can use these values to measure and determine where to drill to create the inspection hole. In this specific outboard rib location, if you "miss" the original hole somewhat, it will be okay.

Inspection Hole Locations
  • RV-3: A hole can be added on centerline of outboard rib 1” forward of the aft face of the rear spar.
  • RV-4: Tooling hole is located on centerline of rib/horizontal stabilizer approximately 0.815” forward of the aft face of the rear spar if the rib was formed by Van’s. Otherwise, a hole can be added 1” forward of the aft face of the rear spar on the centerline of the rib.
  • RV-7/8: Tooling hole is located 0.907” forward of the aft face of the rear spar on the centerline of the rib/horizontal stabilizer.
  • RV-9/10/14: Lightening holes are present on outboard rib and on rear spar. The aft lightening hole center in outboard rib is located 2.203” forward of the aft face of the rear spar on the centerline of the outboard rib/horizontal stabilizer.
Also see the attached diagram (which is not model specific, but will help with general reference). Click to enlarge.

toolingholereference.jpg
 
Now that I am being forced into performing borescope inspections of my horizontal stabilizer, what is a good, reasonably priced borescope that will fit the bill for this inspection? Sorry to beat this “what’s a good borescope” dead horse one more time!

I recently purchased this inexpensive version from Teslong. The camera is only .2 inches in diameter and it has a tip camera and a side camera. The side camera makes it very easy To inspect valve faces inside of cylinders, and the it would work perfect for the horizontal stab inspection. I am amazed at the resolution compared to the Vividia 400 that we have used in the shop for many years and it doesn’t require an additional computer device to view the camera.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09YGNWL44/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Greg,

Thanks for the SB (I've read it) and making parts available.

Can you give us a little more information than the SB contains on how many airplanes and which models you are aware of that were found to have these cracks to date? And also how many hours on them and their use background, if known? Was one of the airplanes the RV-7 factory demonstrator/transition trainer that Mike uses? I understand all the models may be susceptible to cracking due to the design and flight environment.

Has there been any reports of cracking in the RS of the vertical tail around the upper rudder hinge?

The engineer in me is curious.

Thanks.

There are at least three aircraft that we are aware of so far where the cracking described in the SB have been found. I first want to be very clear that we do not believe this potential issue is specific to an individual model, even though the models I am about to describe are all RV-7s. But, since you asked: Two of the aircraft we are aware of at this time are RV-7s that have been operated for around 2,000 hours each. The photos you see in the service bulletins are from those aircraft. The RV-7 that Mike Seager flies (477RV) for factory transition training has been inspected and does not have cracks. That airplane has more than 6,000 hours. Our RV-7A demonstrator aircraft was inspected and did have the cracks. That airplane has about 2,650 hours of accumulated time. Based on what we have seen so far, using time in service or making assumptions about how it was operated (which really is all subjectively relative) should not be used to determine whether or not this bulletin is more or less important. Inspect and verify, and of course fix when needed, is our firm direction.
 
I could be wrong, but I don't believe any RV6 HS Spars where ever prepunched for hinge brackets? Do you see something different?
My kit was "prepunch" but it was only pilot holes in some skins. It was a long time ago but I remember how daunting measuring and aligning the hinge brackets was.
One reason why each 6 is a little different than the next.

Actually the emp kit shipped for the RV-6 during the last couple years (sorry, I don’t remember the exact time frame) before the introduction of the RV-7, was fully prepunched.
It was sort of an advanced release of the RV-7 emp kit with the only difference being the rudder and elevator skin thicknesses being .016 instead of .020.
Many builders switched over to building the 7 when it was released by just purchasing the thicker skins.
 
Pardon my newb ignorance, but I am only 3 weeks into ownership on a flying -7 and I just dropped it off at the paint shop the day this came out. So i asked them to send me some pics of the rib since I didnt have any specific photos of that spot and it appears to me this is (hopefully) the aforementioned tooling hole? So all I'd need to do is enlarge to 7/16 to get the borescope in there, correct?
 

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It Depends

Actually, it depends on the size of the camera attachment. I have a Teslong and had to open it up to a little over 5/16".

Dan (RV-7A)
 
Pardon my newb ignorance, but I am only 3 weeks into ownership on a flying -7 and I just dropped it off at the paint shop the day this came out. So i asked them to send me some pics of the rib since I didnt have any specific photos of that spot and it appears to me this is (hopefully) the aforementioned tooling hole? So all I'd need to do is enlarge to 7/16 to get the borescope in there, correct?

Yes, that is the hole that is used for access with the borescope. As already mentioned, the size you need to enlarge the whole too is dependent on the actual camera you are using.
The hole size specified in the service bulletin is based on what is expected to be the largest needed based on common borescope cameras. Some of the cameras that are available now will fit through an even smaller hole than specified.
 
There are at least three aircraft that we are aware of so far where the cracking described in the SB have been found. I first want to be very clear that we do not believe this potential issue is specific to an individual model, even though the models I am about to describe are all RV-7s. But, since you asked: Two of the aircraft we are aware of at this time are RV-7s that have been operated for around 2,000 hours each. The photos you see in the service bulletins are from those aircraft. The RV-7 that Mike Seager flies (477RV) for factory transition training has been inspected and does not have cracks. That airplane has more than 6,000 hours. Our RV-7A demonstrator aircraft was inspected and did have the cracks. That airplane has about 2,650 hours of accumulated time. Based on what we have seen so far, using time in service or making assumptions about how it was operated (which really is all subjectively relative) should not be used to determine whether or not this bulletin is more or less important. Inspect and verify, and of course fix when needed, is our firm direction.

Greg,

Thanks for the detailed response and transparency. I know you're extremely busy and I appreciate you taking the time to respond. Appreciate it.

As I mentioned in my post, I understand that all the models listed in the SB may be susceptible to cracking due to the similarity of the design and their normal flight environment. Hopefully no one will take this SB lightly.
 
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Greg, I am literally a few days away from finishing my HS. The HS rear spar is complete and primed, but not installed in the skin. What is the guidance for those who have the emp kit and haven’t built the HS yet? Will you guys send parts for the mod? Should I wait to finish HS pending new hinge brackets? It seems logical to install the new brackets now before assembling the HS.

Brian Robbins
RV14

Brian if it were me, I'd go ahead and order the new hinge brackets from Van's and install those instead since you have that option. All the new kits going forward will use these new brackets apparently.
 
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