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  #11  
Old 08-04-2021, 06:28 PM
Ed_Wischmeyer's Avatar
Ed_Wischmeyer Ed_Wischmeyer is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,561
Default

When I built mine, I had two slots for the dimpler, 1/3 in from either end. This made it easier to dimple the ends of big sheets.
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  #12  
Old 08-05-2021, 09:31 AM
avatty avatty is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Posts: 61
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Lots of good ideas here ... for the heavy DRDT-2 I made a 2x2 rolling stand with lockable casters of the same height as my 2 EAA workbenches. The same, but without casters, for the lighter C-frame riveter. A very flexible setup that gave good support to everything regardless of size or shape.
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  #13  
Old 08-05-2021, 12:32 PM
SantosDumont SantosDumont is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 124
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I use an adjustable height rolling table from home depot to clamp the DRDT2 and then another workbench to lay the skin on.
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  #14  
Old 08-19-2021, 10:58 AM
PatMac PatMac is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Louisville
Posts: 23
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"The use of a bit of tube over the rivet also helped keep the flanges flat onto the rib."

interested in this process. Would you have a pic or could you elaborate. Thanks in advance.
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  #15  
Old 08-19-2021, 11:31 AM
BOHICA BOHICA is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Austin
Posts: 49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
Mine was like Ty above except...
I use EAA benches. Easy to move them around. The platform and C-frame were not permenant so everythjng could be arranged to fit the job.
I did the same thing as well. Works like a charm to optimize space.
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  #16  
Old 08-19-2021, 11:33 AM
BOHICA BOHICA is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Austin
Posts: 49
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Here is a link to the EAA plans. Only mod I did was to extend on two sides to allow for clamping to table but I can still butt end to end to work on longer pieces. I have my HS on the two benches right now with them butted together.

http://eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/tablefig.htm
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  #17  
Old 08-19-2021, 12:53 PM
Bgill Bgill is online now
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Douglas, GA
Posts: 102
Default Tube over rivet end

PatMac,

I couldn't find the original post you referenced, but I believe this is a similar technique to the tube referenced. I used small O rings over the rivet tail. The squeezer (or bucking bar) compresses the two flanges together before the rivet sets to aid in a tight fit. Nice to have when you have 10 rivets completed and one piece of metal that doesn't want to stay perfectly flat..

The image is just a set-up to show the washer and is not representative of actual surfaces to be riveted.
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  #18  
Old 08-19-2021, 05:14 PM
John RV8 John RV8 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Watauga, TX
Posts: 159
Default Another technique

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bgill View Post
PatMac,

I couldn't find the original post you referenced, but I believe this is a similar technique to the tube referenced. I used small O rings over the rivet tail. The squeezer (or bucking bar) compresses the two flanges together before the rivet sets to aid in a tight fit. Nice to have when you have 10 rivets completed and one piece of metal that doesn't want to stay perfectly flat..

The image is just a set-up to show the washer and is not representative of actual surfaces to be riveted.
For a similar task, I used a strip of very high density foam rubber (about 1/4 thick) attached to the bucking bar. The rivet would push through it and the foam would push the flanges together before the rivet began setting.
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  #19  
Old 08-20-2021, 04:47 PM
Ender Ender is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Marion, IA
Posts: 80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bgill View Post
PatMac,

I couldn't find the original post you referenced, but I believe this is a similar technique to the tube referenced. I used small O rings over the rivet tail. The squeezer (or bucking bar) compresses the two flanges together before the rivet sets to aid in a tight fit. Nice to have when you have 10 rivets completed and one piece of metal that doesn't want to stay perfectly flat..

The image is just a set-up to show the washer and is not representative of actual surfaces to be riveted.
I have never understood how this works. Doesn't the o-ring need to be thicker than the rivet tail is tall (so its squeezing the two pieces together)? I've tried making tubing thicker, but the bucking is always ugly. What am I missing?
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  #20  
Old 08-20-2021, 04:59 PM
Bgill Bgill is online now
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Douglas, GA
Posts: 102
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Agreed, the image I posted was just some components I had at the house. Everything else is at the hanger. The O ring should be roughly the same height as the rivet tail at the start. As it squeezes. Everything gets pushed together.
Try some samples and see how it works.
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RV-14A 140466 N384RV - Flight Testing
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