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  #11  
Old 09-04-2021, 09:36 PM
ryane67 ryane67 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Lake Orion, MI
Posts: 20
Default

for those of you using d-sub here, are you using just the pins and not a connector housing? I guess just the pins makes some sense since it's not going to be frequently disconnected...
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  #12  
Old 09-04-2021, 10:28 PM
n982sx n982sx is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryane67 View Post
for those of you using d-sub here, are you using just the pins and not a connector housing? I guess just the pins makes some sense since it's not going to be frequently disconnected...
Yes. Just the pins, encased in shrink tubing.
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  #13  
Old 09-05-2021, 04:03 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryane67 View Post
for those of you using d-sub here, are you using just the pins and not a connector housing? I guess just the pins makes some sense since it's not going to be frequently disconnected...
SteinAir has a great video on the technique:

https://www.steinair.com/videos/008-...ft-trim-wires/
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  #14  
Old 09-05-2021, 07:50 AM
JDA_BTR JDA_BTR is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 1,340
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I'm pretty good at Molex connectors, but even I succumbed to the pins/heatshink solution. After I built my panel I had lots of pins and heatshrink, and the right crimper. So it is dead simple to just connect each wire with a pin set and little heatshrink then heatshrink the bundle. Completely reliable, unlike the Molex. If you do need to remove it then you just cut off the heatshrink and the pins come apart.

I've left the Molex that work alone, but both of them for the elevator trim have been abandoned.
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  #15  
Old 09-05-2021, 08:13 AM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mturnerb View Post
SteinAir has a great video on the technique:
https://www.steinair.com/videos/008-...ft-trim-wires/
I might add to Stein's video that if you stagger the pins, you will get a smaller footprint.
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Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century. Over 1,000 certifications accomplished. Discount for Veterans, Law Enforcement, Fire Fighters.
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Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
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  #16  
Old 09-05-2021, 09:50 AM
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Walt Walt is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
Posts: 6,222
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Why not just put a 9 pin connector on and be done, better mechanical support and easy to unpin if you need to remove down the road. You ever try cutting off adhesive heat shrink from a 22/24ga wire with damaging the wire? I have seen that done before and I just cut em all off and replace them, takes less time.
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  #17  
Old 09-07-2021, 05:26 AM
Lbaero Lbaero is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 22
Default New Rv Build

Hey Turner, good to see that you are doing it again with a Rv12. Would like to come by and see it. Have my RV6 finished and flying. I ran across this post looking for a trim servo and wiring diagram. Any luck with Ray Allen?
Laland Booth.
RV 8 RV 8A sold
RV6 KCRG
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  #18  
Old 09-07-2021, 12:10 PM
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Rick_A Rick_A is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,560
Default D-sub with no shell

If you use a d-sub connector, you donít have to use the back shell. I just zip tie the 2 d-subs together using the screw holes. I use silicone tape on the wires to add a little support.

Itís been working flawlessly for over 1,000 flight hours.
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