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What countersinks are required for a 10?

Bellhemen

I'm New Here
My #40 countersink broke last night and it was my only one. I have duplicates of everything, except countersinks...

I am ordering countersinks today. I would like a complete list of countersinks required from start to finish. I read somewhere about a countersink for doing fiberglass work. What was that called? Also, are any special cages needed? Narrow/Stubby/Extension.

I know I need a #30 and #40, what else?
 
#6, #8, 3/16", 5/16" Can't remember if I used the 6 and 8 for kit assembly or customizations, but can't really build a full plane without them.

Larry
 
And those 5/16" CSKs are only used for the 2 holes for the front seatbelt to cabin roof attachment bolts. Lots of guys just borrow one vs buy.
 
#8 screw countersink is needed along with the dimple for the rudder balance weights.

You will need to modify a countersink cage for low clearance situations at a minimum (like with the rudder horn).
 
You will need to modify a countersink cage for low clearance situations at a minimum (like with the rudder horn).

Maybe, I guess. I modified bucking bars and my rivet puller, but I didn't modify any of my CSK cages. My point is there's usually more options than absolutes when it comes to building.
 
I keep 3 countersink cages just for my personal sanity. One for my #30 calibrated for CounterSinks and Dimples. One for #40, and the third is for the less used countersinks.
I think I only had one instance so far where the cage got in the way, ended up just putting the countersink into my deburring handle and carefully make my countersink by hand. I'm sure there are other ways / other opinions on what is the best way. :D Also I really like the single flute countersinks. Maybe I never figured out how to effectively use the common countersinks.
 
In addition to above, I bought #30 and #40 countersinks made of grinding wheel abrasive, for the fiberglass work. Regular CS?s will quickly dull on the fiberglass.
 
Maybe, I guess. I modified bucking bars and my rivet puller, but I didn't modify any of my CSK cages. My point is there's usually more options than absolutes when it comes to building.

Sure. I could have used a shim or some tape or something to get the cage up above the bend radius. It was quicker/easier for me to radius one edge of the cage. I tried using the naked countersink in a drill and the drill press and that was a disaster.
 
In addition to above, I bought #30 and #40 countersinks made of grinding wheel abrasive, for the fiberglass work. Regular CS?s will quickly dull on the fiberglass.

Interesting. I've always just downcycled some worn conventional countersinks.

Do the abrasive countersinks last longer or work better on fiberglass than the conventional countersinks?
 
Interesting. I've always just downcycled some worn conventional countersinks.

Do the abrasive countersinks last longer or work better on fiberglass than the conventional countersinks?

I'm afraid I don't remember where I got them. They weren't very expensive.
IIRC, I did all the fiberglass work (top, wheel pants/gear fairings) on one #30, one or two #40. They have a steel pilot point. The grinding rate with an air drill is just right imho - not too fast, not too slow. You can use the #30 on even larger holes, if you're careful.
 
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