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  #1  
Old 03-25-2021, 09:20 PM
chintangent chintangent is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Loves Park, IL.
Posts: 15
Default Close Quarters Riveting

What's the best tool you recommend for dimpling/riveting tight areas close to spars? I had a pin hole puncture in my trim tab and was advised by Vans to drill to #40, dimple and set a #3 flush rivet. After I drilled the hole and deburred, I realized that I'm too close to the spar web to be able to dimple/rivet. I'm looking to expand my tools anyways. What do you recommend? Unfortunately, it's also somewhat beneath the trim tab horns, so only about 1/4" clearance on top and about 7/8" clearance on the bottom.
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  #2  
Old 03-25-2021, 09:29 PM
fl-mike's Avatar
fl-mike fl-mike is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,511
Default

Pop rivet dimpler with the female die ground to a “D” shape to get in close to the spar.
If you haven’t ground some dimple dies, well, you will....
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Mike W
Venice, FL
RV-6A. Mattituck TMX O-360, FP, GRT Sport EFIS, L3 Lynx NGT-9000
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  #3  
Old 03-25-2021, 10:35 PM
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PaulvS PaulvS is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 569
Default diy

Make your own close quarter dimple dies from mild steel and use a machine countersink to make the depression. The male part of the die is a matching rivet that will be tapped into the hole with a drift punch. The dimple won't be perfect, but it will be good enough in such a location.

The rivet itself can be set with a squeezer or a narrow flush set and thin bucking bar.
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Building RV-6A #22320 O-320 FP. Wings and tail complete, working on fuselage
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Last edited by PaulvS : 03-25-2021 at 10:40 PM.
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  #4  
Old 03-27-2021, 11:14 AM
chintangent chintangent is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Loves Park, IL.
Posts: 15
Default

Thanks Paul. Your feedback has been very helpful.
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  #5  
Old 03-27-2021, 11:23 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,374
Default Dimple tool

My first choice for something like that is a Cleveland Vice Grip Dimpler.
Second is the pop rivet dimple tool
Third is a 3/16" gun set. The dies fit in the set. Turn pressure down to about 10 psi and feather the trigger. I also have home made bar that holds the female.
Fourth is a home made close quarter jig as mentioned above
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http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
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Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
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Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #6  
Old 03-27-2021, 11:32 AM
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bjdecker bjdecker is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Georgetown, TX
Posts: 626
Default

That's a tight spot.

I think I would forgo putting a rivet in there. Use a debur tool to put a little more of an angle on the hole, then mix up some epoxy with milled fibers and fill the hole; push the material into the hole - forming a sort of mushroom plug.

Sand & Paint...
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Retired Firmware Guy and Airplane Builder

2020 RV-14 QB -- Under construction - Tailcone & Empennage Complete.
2018 RV-7 QB -- Built, Flying
2007 RV-7 QB -- Built, Drowned, Resurrected and flying
1998 RV-8 QB -- Started, Sold
1986 Mooney 205SE
1980 Mooney 231

Aided and abetted building a number of other RV's.
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  #7  
Old 03-27-2021, 03:58 PM
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gyoung gyoung is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Spring, TX
Posts: 280
Default

Use an NAS1097-3 rivet. You can countersink with a couple turns of your deburring tool. Set it with a no-hole yoke in a squeezer or a long set in a gun.
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1950 Navion - flying
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  #8  
Old 03-28-2021, 09:23 AM
Chris Scott Chris Scott is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Bowling Green Ky
Posts: 30
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Not to go off-topic, but "close quarters riveting" reminds me of installing a transponder and encoder in my first plane - a 150.

A&P: "I need you to crawl back in the tail cone and buck these rivets."

Me: "OK"

HOLY ****!
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  #9  
Old 03-29-2021, 08:31 AM
sf3543 sf3543 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 1,074
Default

I'd use a pop rivet and fill in the hole.
But, if you decide to try riveting a solid rivet, use a soft rivet.
It would be a rivet without the divot in the middle of the rivet head and much easier to squeeze. (AN426A rivets)
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  #10  
Old 03-29-2021, 11:05 AM
eric.the.blonde eric.the.blonde is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Ann Arbor
Posts: 32
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sf3543 View Post
I'd use a pop rivet and fill in the hole.
But, if you decide to try riveting a solid rivet, use a soft rivet.
It would be a rivet without the divot in the middle of the rivet head and much easier to squeeze. (AN426A rivets)
+1

Pop rivet all day. There are a few spots where I wish I had simply used a pop rivet and called it "good enough" instead of trying to be "better" with a solid rivet.
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