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  #1  
Old 03-02-2021, 04:56 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,379
Default Oil Cooler Shroud

Anti Splat makes some awesome products but I wasn't crazy about the size of the oil cooler shroud. Time to fabricate. I will post progress.
Start with a 3-7/8" plug. Final shroud should be pretty close to 4" after layup.
Cut another block the size of the shutter.
Glue the plug to the block.
Clamp it in the vise and use a piece of emery cloth to shape the cone. Just like polishing shoes. Takes about 10 minutes.
Coat with neat epoxy then micro.
Cure.
Final shroud will have a flat 1/2" flange all the way around for mounting.

Next steps...
Another coat of micro.
Final sand
Release agent
Layup
Easy Peasy. Thanks to Dan for all his tips.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit, now FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #2  
Old 03-02-2021, 07:55 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,379
Default Micro

Here it is slathered in micro.
Next final sand
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit, now FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #3  
Old 03-03-2021, 03:43 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,379
Default Neat epoxy

Two coats of neat epoxy
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit, now FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #4  
Old 03-03-2021, 04:09 PM
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bjdecker bjdecker is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Georgetown, TX
Posts: 632
Default

Nice work Larry.

I did something similar. However, the "ring" that the SCEET was clamped to just didn't hold up. I ended up bonding in a section of aluminum duct.

Pictures attached.
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Brian Decker
Retired Firmware Guy and Airplane Builder

2020 RV-14 QB -- Under construction - Tailcone & Empennage Complete.
2018 RV-7 QB -- Built, Flying
2007 RV-7 QB -- Built, Drowned, Resurrected and flying
1998 RV-8 QB -- Started, Sold
1986 Mooney 205SE
1980 Mooney 231

Aided and abetted building a number of other RV's.
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  #5  
Old 03-03-2021, 06:47 PM
cajunwings cajunwings is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: new iberia la
Posts: 826
Default Oil cooler duct

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
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  #6  
Old 03-03-2021, 07:31 PM
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kentlik kentlik is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 888
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
Two coats of neat epoxy
Attachment 9000
Looking good Larry!
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RV-7A in progress
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  #7  
Old 03-03-2021, 08:05 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,379
Default Duct

Now I'm wondering if I should have shaped in some direction. Oh bother. Good practice.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit, now FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #8  
Old 03-03-2021, 09:13 PM
scsmith scsmith is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ashland, OR
Posts: 2,814
Default

You would like to keep the diffusion angles shallow and the shape smooth. Brian Decker's is a very good shape.

The Anti-splat is much too abrupt a diffuser with sharp corners and big angle change. Will result in a 4" diameter jet flow and back eddies.
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Steve Smith
Aeronautical Engineer
RV-8 N825RV
IO-360 A1A
WW 200RV
"The Magic Carpet" Flying since Sept. 2009
Hobbs 635
LS6-15/18W sailplane SOLD
bought my old LS6-A back!!
VAF donation Dec 2020

Last edited by scsmith : 03-03-2021 at 10:30 PM.
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  #9  
Old 03-03-2021, 09:43 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,379
Default Terms

Quote:
Originally Posted by scsmith View Post
You would like to keep the diffusion angles shallow and the shape smooth. Brian Decker's is a very good shape.

The Anti-splat is much to abrupt a diffuser with sharp corners and big angle change. Will result in a 4" diameter jet flow and back eddies.
Please explain. How should the air flow from the hole in #4 baffle be metered and directed to the oil cooler?
I haven't assembled the baffles yet so now is the time to build it right. Using the bigger RV10 oil cooler in my IO360M1B will no doubt require some metering during colder flights. I was going to use a blast gate but it was way too heavy.

Vans sells the same oil cooler shutter for this exact use
https://shop.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bi...ct=oil_shutter

Is there a better valve available?
Maybe this.
https://www.ecomfort.com/Fantech-IR4...4aAhPsEALw_wcB

I could probably make something like this work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AA2WGFK...ing=UTF8&psc=1

Here's the RV10 plan. No shutter on the big six cylinder.
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__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit, now FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.

Last edited by wirejock : 03-03-2021 at 09:57 PM.
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  #10  
Old 03-03-2021, 10:44 PM
scsmith scsmith is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ashland, OR
Posts: 2,814
Default

Larry,

My concern for the shutters is that when 'wide open' they still present a fairly significant obstruction to the flow into the cooler. For the parallel-valve 360 engines this seems to be fine - they are really easy to cool the oil. For angle valve engines, (or any engine with piston oil squirters) there is a lot of heat load in the oil, and when it is warm out, you are going to want full cooling.

So, I favor a butterfly valve/throttle valve type control, right at the flange where the 4" tubing attaches to the back of the cooling baffle. I made my own, but I think you can buy them in a section of 4" aluminum tubing that you can insert in the middle of the 4" tubing run, or you could cut one side close to the valve bushings and have a flange welded onto it to attach to the cooling baffle. Take a look at the one that Don Broussard posted in post #5.

Where you make the transition from the 4" round tubing to the face of the oil cooler, you are slowing the flow down and you want the flow evenly distributed over the face of the cooler. If that transition is too abrupt, or has sharp corners, you basically get a 4" diameter jet of flow impinging on the face of the cooler, and then recirculating around in there. Now....it is not really that big a deal, since the flow velocity is fairly slow in the 4" tube, so the pressure loss is not very big even with an abrupt transition. But you would like to do the best you can. If you are going to make a custom fiberglass adapter, shape it well. As I said, Brian Decker's, pictured in post #4 is very good. Note that it takes some length to make a good transition, and that often dictates angling off in some direction. That is OK. The idea is to get the flow velocity low as it approaches the cooler. And if the velocity is low, it doesn't matter much what direction it is going. It will get slurped into the cooler by the large pressure differential.

The one redeeming aspect of the firewall cooler mount/adapter for the RV-10 is that it takes in air perpendicular to the cooler face, and forces it to distribute evenly over the face of the cooler by virtue of the triangular shape which reduces area as the flow progresses along the face of the cooler. As long as the incoming velocity is low, this is not too bad. But not as good as a smooth diffuser-type transition.

I have just one quick and poor quality pressure measurement on my old arrangement which had 3.5" scat tubing rather than 4", and the adapter for the cooler was very similar to what Van sells for the RV-10 firewall mount, so pretty abrupt. With the 3.5" scat tube, the velocity coming into the adapter/mount is fairly fast. In that one measurement, the upper cowl plenum pressure was about 10" of water, the lower cowl pressure (and the oil cooler outlet pressure) was about 1.4" of water, and the pressure at the oil cooler inlet was about 5.5" of water. In other words, I had lost half of the available pressure to drive flow thru the cooler in the 3.5" duct and abrupt transition to the cooler. I don't have measurements on my new system yet which has a 4" smooth tube duct and a transition that looks very much like the one Brian Decker made.
__________________
Steve Smith
Aeronautical Engineer
RV-8 N825RV
IO-360 A1A
WW 200RV
"The Magic Carpet" Flying since Sept. 2009
Hobbs 635
LS6-15/18W sailplane SOLD
bought my old LS6-A back!!
VAF donation Dec 2020

Last edited by scsmith : 03-03-2021 at 10:58 PM.
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