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Converting dragger to nosewheel

Smilin' Jack

Well Known Member
Has anyone converted their RV7 to a 7A

Been thinking about doing this for a couple reason
1 age
2 insurance cost on tail wheel as you get to 80 years old

Since I will be removing my superior engine affected by the Crankshaft deal thought it would be a great time to do this undertaking.

Few items I already know
One new engine mount and nose wheel assemble
New main gear but I could sell my present 7 engine mount and gear legs
Removal of tail wheel

Has anyone done this before.
I guess after I would have to go back into a phase flight again
Redu the registration to change aircraft type from 7 to 7A

Just good for thought later this year
Thanks
Smilin’ Jack
 
Easy conversion. Just need a new motor mount and get the new one with the better nose wheel system. When I did mine, I did not take the tail wheel hardware out of the rear fuselage. It makes a great spot for a tie down ring or a fun place to freak people out by putting the tail wheel in when they are looking at your plane.

You will have to re-do brake lines and probably the wheel paints but it is a pretty easy change. Vans has a set of parts they have made for people doing just what you want to do. Contact me if you want to talk about it.

Good luck and make the plane the way you want it - it is yours!
 
Easy?

Easy conversion. Just need a new motor mount and get the new one with the better nose wheel system. When I did mine, I did not take the tail wheel hardware out of the rear fuselage. It makes a great spot for a tie down ring or a fun place to freak people out by putting the tail wheel in when they are looking at your plane.

You will have to re-do brake lines and probably the wheel paints but it is a pretty easy change. Vans has a set of parts they have made for people doing just what you want to do. Contact me if you want to talk about it.

Good luck and make the plane the way you want it - it is yours!

And then there is the little matter of moving the main gear. :eek:
 
The main gear is easy since you are getting a new motor mount. It took less than an hour to cut the new holes and patch the old ones. It is an easy process from start to finish.
 
The main gear is easy since you are getting a new motor mount. It took less than an hour to cut the new holes and patch the old ones. It is an easy process from start to finish.

Just curious but I thought the main gear on the 7A mounted inside the fuselage forward of the main spar versus the 7 gear mounted on the engine mount. Does the 7A gear mount part just bolt to the spar? In my -7 I have fuel lines and wiring and pitot/AoA lines that come through where I think the gear mount would go that would have to be rerouted.
Figs
 
Trade

I did the opposite conversion on my 9. Nose to TW. My suggestion is find someone that wants to change from a nose to a tail and swap gear.
Worked well in my case.
 
That is correct. The A models mount inside just in front of the spar. You have to cut on new holes and bolt the weldments to the spar. You then have to patch the holes near the firewall where the main gear were. The whole process is not difficult and doesn’t take that much time.
 
Cowling

Was there any work required for the cowling and engine baffles due to changing the engine mount that placed the engine in a slightly different position?
 
That is correct. The A models mount inside just in front of the spar. You have to cut on new holes and bolt the weldments to the spar. You then have to patch the holes near the firewall where the main gear were. The whole process is not difficult and doesn’t take that much time.
While this is correct but it is a bit more involved. You will need to remove the wing bolts (at least partially) to install the gear leg weldment. The bottom bolts go in from aft to front and make sure you put the nut in its place as you drive the bolts as there is not enough room to start the nut on the bolt if they are driven all the way. Many believe the bolts ought to be replaced if you are pulling them which I would agree.
 
Was there any work required for the cowling and engine baffles due to changing the engine mount that placed the engine in a slightly different position?

Yes. I had fitted the cowl with the A-model engine mount. The tail dragger mount was slightly shorter. I ended up shimming the mount off the firewall aprox 1/4” with spacers. This prevented the spinner from rubbing on the face of the cowling.
 
I made the change before I had fitted my cowling. As was said, the bolts are tricky - I ended up hot gluing the nuts to popsicle sticks to get them in place and get them started. It was fiddly but not difficult.

I never had the desire to fly a tail dragger so the decision to change was easy. I have no regrets.
 
Big Rivet Removal

The main gear is easy since you are getting a new motor mount. It took less than an hour to cut the new holes and patch the old ones. It is an easy process from start to finish.

Just curious how you removed the rivets from the main spar, without wallowing out the holes? On the A models, a number of large rivets are left out of the center section of the wing main spar. The A model main gear weldments bolt to the spar center section via those missing rivets. The bolts are supposed to be a light press fit.
 
Just curious how you removed the rivets from the main spar, without wallowing out the holes? On the A models, a number of large rivets are left out of the center section of the wing main spar. The A model main gear weldments bolt to the spar center section via those missing rivets. The bolts are supposed to be a light press fit.

I will have to go back and look at my notes and pictures. I dont remember it being difficult. I am heading to the airport tomorrow and will check it out and see if I can get some pictures.
 
Just ignore the guy with the old kit

Just curious how you removed the rivets from the main spar, without wallowing out the holes? On the A models, a number of large rivets are left out of the center section of the wing main spar. The A model main gear weldments bolt to the spar center section via those missing rivets. The bolts are supposed to be a light press fit.

After reviewing several revisions of the RV9 drawing 34, I now realize that the center section of the 9 and 9A are identical. That's smart, as it reduces the parts count for that item. There are no rivets in the 9 spar center section [where the 9A main gear weldments mount], as there are on [at least the older] 8 center sections. I imagine that Vans has probably done the same for the newer 8 and 8A kits.

Both variants of the 9 use bolts in those holes.
 
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I Have the Parts

I have the 7A gear legs and supporting weldments, new, set on the shelf after converting a 7A fuse kit to a 7 (and the sheet metal for tipper to slider:)). Other bits needed Van's will happily supply, and I'll sell these to you at a favorable price should you be interested. Please contact me by text at 2082833917.

John Siebold
Captain, Siebold World Airlines
"If we're not on time, it's because we're early."
 
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