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Here we go, the sticky.

JeremyL

JeremyL

Well Known Member
Here we go, time to seal the tanks. A bit of anxiety at first, but with the few stiffeners riveted so far, it’s not so bad. The worst part is I won’t know if any of this is good until it’s complete and almost impossible to fix. So we shall see. Cheers! (*the plans stated it was ok to have the stiffeners flipped like you see in the picture to aid in sealant application, hopefully it doesn’t cause any interference. If anyone has experience here, let me know)
 

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JeremyL said:
Here we go, time to seal the tanks. A bit of anxiety at first, but with the few stiffeners riveted so far, it’s not so bad. The worst part is I won’t know if any of this is good until it’s complete and almost impossible to fix. So we shall see. Cheers! (*the plans stated it was ok to have the stiffeners flipped like you see in the picture to aid in sealant application, hopefully it doesn’t cause any interference. If anyone has experience here, let me know)
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Re the interference, did you not trial assemble everything with Clecos before?? As for leaks, everyone has to pass this hurdle. And leaks are very repairable. Just fixed a small one the other day after 22 years in service.

One suggestion, keep your workspace and tools clean. Don't let he mess get out of hand. Looks like a good job so far.
 
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Low Pass said:
Re the interference, did you not trial assemble everything with Clecos before?? As for leaks, everyone has to pass this hurdle. And leaks are very repairable. Just fixed a small one the other day after 22 years in service.

One suggestion, keep your workspace and tools clean. Don't let he mess get out of hand. Looks like a good job so far.
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I did check the fitment, it seemed to actually provide more space for the float. But never hurts to see if anyone had more info before I applied the goop o death haha .
 
Before rear baffle

Just a suggestion, before you add the rear baffle, consider adding a second fuel level sensor to the outside rib of each tank.
The two sensors in each tank are then wired in parrelell. This will allow a modern glass cockpit to have accurate fuel level readings all the way from full to empty tanks.

I thought about this after i had installed the rear baffle, And thought it would be too much of a pain to add. If i ever take the tanks off, i will make this change.
 
Just remember, no points off for neatness and more is better when it comes to tank sealing. I used at least twice as much as recommended, no leaks yet.
 
It looks fine so far though I would suggest to keep the sealant off the areas where the ribs are going to go. A bit of masking tape may help for the remaining stiffeners.
 
Sealant

PaulvS said:
It looks fine so far though I would suggest to keep the sealant off the areas where the ribs are going to go. A bit of masking tape may help for the remaining stiffeners.
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I missed that. Yes, watch that area where the ribs need to land.
Why does everyone hate Proseal. Enjoy the build. If you don't, it will come back to bite you. Nitrile gloves. Paper towel squares and a solvent. No mess. I enjoyed the tanks. Maybe because I had a shattered leg healing and tanks were a distraction. I worked them sitting down with my leg elevated. I still open the tank and sniff the proseal! :D The memorynis better than the broken leg. :D
 
PaulvS said:
It looks fine so far though I would suggest to keep the sealant off the areas where the ribs are going to go. A bit of masking tape may help for the remaining stiffeners.
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Yes, the first one I realized I needed something to keep that area clean. So the subsequent stiffeners got electrical tape in the rib area. I clean the little spot up with acetone and it worked well.

I actually am enjoying doing the sealing the tanks so far, 4 ribs in and not too bad. Definitely recommend several boxes of nitrile gloves. A little too I learned while dealing with COVID patients, use two sets of gloves on each hand so not to cross contaminate.
Honestly I really am not sure what the shop head of the rivets look like other than I can see they aren’t clinched on the ribs, better have your “by feel and by sound” riveting well tuned in by now. Overall I’m actually enjoying it other than the smell……. But, I haven’t leak tested anything yet. If they pass with no leaks, then I will really enjoy the process.
 
JeremyL said:
Honestly I really am not sure what the shop head of the rivets look like other than I can see they aren’t clinched on the ribs, better have your “by feel and by sound” riveting well tuned in by now.
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Which is the primary reason I disagree with the often given advice of “you can’t use too much sealant.”
 
rvbuilder2002 said:
Which is the primary reason I disagree with the often given advice of “you can’t use too much sealant.”
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I guess you're quoting me.... Pretty sure I never endorsed or implied covering up bad riveting or poor workmanship with sealant was acceptable.

Quickbuild tanks are notorious for leaks, but they look neat and pretty, they also have minimal sealant applied.
 
The rivets are acceptable, I jammed the tester through the sealant in a few random spots to verify proper technique and pressure. I meant it’s not practical (for me) to test every shop head and get the gauge all mucked up repeatedly.
 
Walt said:
I guess you're quoting me.... Pretty sure I never endorsed or implied covering up bad riveting or poor workmanship with sealant was acceptable.

Quickbuild tanks are notorious for leaks, but they look neat and pretty, they also have minimal sealant applied.
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Not you specifically Walt, apparently you just happened to have made a comment recently.
I didn’t take the OP‘s comment as meaning he covered up bad rivets. It seemed he was saying there was enough sealant getting squished out everywhere that when he was finished setting, the rivet was no longer very visible. That would kind of make it hard to tell what level of workmanship there was on any given rivet.
 
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