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Cowl hard to remove...

Michael Burbidge

Well Known Member
My bottom cowl is so difficult to remove. The reason is the baffle material at the front of the air filter box. Putting the cowl on is not so bad because the baffle material bends that way. But because of the shape of the material it does not bend of give much taking off the cowl.

It takes a lot of pulling down on the cowl, which in turn pulls down on the filter box and then the carb. I just don't like how much pressure on these components it takes to remove the cowl.

I'm thinking of making a 1/2 inch slit in the baffle material at the positions shown below.

Has anyone done this?

Is it advisable or not?

V9vmNU6.jpg


Thanks,
Michael-
 
Slits as you describe are pretty standard Michael. I have a fair number. Also, makes sure you have just enough fwd length to the fabric but no more.
 
An alternative is to fasten the bottom piece of your fab baffle to the lower cowl, rather than the fab box. That way it drops down when you lower the cowl. I fastened mine with a combination of proseal and a hose clamp around the snorkel.
 
I fold my seal material back inside the fab snorkel then install the cowl. All you have to do then is use your fingers to pull the material back and seal around the snorkel inlet lip. Very easy and No slits to leak. :)
 
Taking off

Hi Reiley,

My problem is removing the cowl. I don't know how I would pull the baffle material back inside the snorkel, before removing the cowl.

Michael-
 
Hi Reiley,

My problem is removing the cowl. I don't know how I would pull the baffle material back inside the snorkel, before removing the cowl.

Michael-

Once you have released all of the fasteners on the bottom cowl (I used stainless #8 Torx screws) pull down on the front of the cowl just enough for the lip to jump out from behind the snorkel then the same procedure... tuck the material back into the front of the fab. you don't need a lot of excess material behind the snorkel lip.
 
No slits to leak. :)
So long as the slits are not longer than the baffle fabric overlap with the snorkel on the cowl, no leaks. Moreover, given the direction of airflow, the air is going to go into the FAB before it's going to try to leak out the baffle fabric/snorkel overlap. I think I got my idea from an RVator or something, but I'm sure Reiley's method will work fine as well.
 
Takes a bit of work but I attached the bottom "u" shaped baffle material on the cowling, it slides up and around the air box. Makes removal & installation easier.
 
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