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Fuel Tank leak... Help!

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billpilot1

Active Member
I am building an RV7a and am just about ready to be inspected. I was calabrating my fuel gage, and my left tank apears to have a leak. About 1 gal per day. These are the quick build wings so I did not put them together or mount them. It appears to be leaking from about half way out in the back. I suspect it is towards the bottom since I did not have the tank totaly filled and it still leaks. What am I looking at having to do to seal it. Once its assembled, can you get inside and patch it? Since Vans built it, will they make it right? Any advice from someone who had built their owe tanks or had to repair thiers? I though I was so close and then this. What makes matters worse, I just had the plane painted and now all those nice white painted phillips screws I sapose I'm going to have to take out! Poop!
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Bill
 
A gallon sounds like quite a bit, can you tell where the gas is coming from? Perhaps a rivet, or dribbling out from somewhere? The proseal in my right tank failed as I was fueling up for my first flight. I ended up having to drill a 4" hole in the tank to re-seal a spot, so I know how you feel. I blamed the ethanol.
 
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It appears to be leaking from about half way out in the back. I suspect it is towards the bottom since I did not have the tank totaly filled and it still leaks. [/QUOTE]
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I also had a leak that first appeared to be in rear of tank but ended up being at the fuel sender.

If the tanks were pre-built and presumably tested and you installed the fuel sender I would check that area first. A leak at the fuel sender mount plate can migrate out the wing and look like the tank aft baffle is leaking.

Small leaks evaporate quickly and may not leave any visible wet fuel. Stuff tissue paper in suspect areas the evaporating fuel will leave a dye stain on the paper revealing the leak location.

I drained the tank, let the old pro-seal dry out, cleaned the area with MEK and slathered more pro-seal over top. Still holding OK at 40 plus hours.
 
Tank leak

Bill, I got this idea from Van's. Pull the tank if you cannot access the possible area. Drain the tank and perform a pressure test with soap and water to find the leak with bubbles on the out side of the tank. Mark the area with tape etc. Use a hair dryer to dry the water and soap. Now for the fix. Get the GREEN loctite wick the area with it. It is thin enough to fill the area. Keep wicking till it will take all you can get in there. Let it cure for 24 hours and reinstall. Use caution and let the fuel evaporate fully of course.
Tad "Stripes" Sargent
7a
 
Thanks

Wow. I'm impressed. I just posted about my problem last night, and already this morning I have a lot of good advise and help. You have made me at ease and not so afread of the problem! I think I am going to realy enjoy my new RV and RV Family!
Thanks Again.
 
I think you mentioned painting in the tank attach screws? Seems to me that i saw a tool specifically made to cut out a painted in screw. Just can't seem to remember what catalog i was browsing when i saw it. If you can find it, it would do a clean job of breaking the paint bond if you indeed do have to remove tank screws.

Steve Ciha
 
steveciha said:
I think you mentioned painting in the tank attach screws? Seems to me that i saw a tool specifically made to cut out a painted in screw. Just can't seem to remember what catalog i was browsing when i saw it. If you can find it, it would do a clean job of breaking the paint bond if you indeed do have to remove tank screws.
Click to expand...

I recently removed two wing panels that were painted along with the wing & two coats of paint. Wing was painted with the underside up, then turned over to dry. The screws came out without tearing a layer of paint between them & the metal surface. Of course there could be lots of variables...

L.Adamson -- RV6A
 
Paint cutters

steveciha said:
I think you mentioned painting in the tank attach screws? Seems to me that i saw a tool specifically made to cut out a painted in screw. Just can't seem to remember what catalog i was browsing when i saw it. If you can find it, it would do a clean job of breaking the paint bond if you indeed do have to remove tank screws.

Steve Ciha
Click to expand...

Avery has them for $21 ea. or a set of 4 for $79. Size 4,6,8 and 10.
 
George in Langley BC said:
It appears to be leaking from about half way out in the back. I suspect it is towards the bottom since I did not have the tank totaly filled and it still leaks.
Click to expand...
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I also had a leak that first appeared to be in rear of tank but ended up being at the fuel sender.

If the tanks were pre-built and presumably tested and you installed the fuel sender I would check that area first. A leak at the fuel sender mount plate can migrate out the wing and look like the tank aft baffle is leaking.

Small leaks evaporate quickly and may not leave any visible wet fuel. Stuff tissue paper in suspect areas the evaporating fuel will leave a dye stain on the paper revealing the leak location.

I drained the tank, let the old pro-seal dry out, cleaned the area with MEK and slathered more pro-seal over top. Still holding OK at 40 plus hours.[/QUOTE]



DDid you put the pro-seal over the hole on the outside of the tank?
Thanks
Bill
(You guys are great!)
 
tadsargent said:
Bill, I got this idea from Van's. Pull the tank if you cannot access the possible area. Drain the tank and perform a pressure test with soap and water to find the leak with bubbles on the out side of the tank. Mark the area with tape etc. Use a hair dryer to dry the water and soap. Now for the fix. Get the GREEN loctite wick the area with it. It is thin enough to fill the area. Keep wicking till it will take all you can get in there. Let it cure for 24 hours and reinstall. Use caution and let the fuel evaporate fully of course.
Tad "Stripes" Sargent
7a
Click to expand...
If you go this route, make sure you get Loctite brand Loctite. It turns out most places sell something that looks the same but it is not. NAPA and other auto parts stores in this place sell the knockoff and say it is the same and made by Loctite, this is not true. They are different products made from different stuff and different companies.
 
billpilot1 said:
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Did you put the pro-seal over the hole on the outside of the tank?
Thanks
Bill
(You guys are great!)
Click to expand...

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Hi Bill

Yes, after cleaning and letting the old pro-seal dry completely, I just pro-sealed over top of the old pro-seal. Leak was pin hole at edge of fuel sender cover plate. My thinking was that pro-seal does not know if it is inside or outside the tank and if the repair did not hold up I would pull the cover plate and do it over. Still holding at 42 hours.
 
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