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Rudder Control Lock

jimkwalton

Active Member
After a suggestion from fellow -14 owner at OSH, I am trying to fashing PVC tubes to hold my rudder pedals firm against wind gusts. No good. The slant of the pedals just pops the device (looks like a PVC 2-tine pitchfork at the moment) up and the rudders move freely.

Any other suggestions for a usable rudder control lock?

[email protected]
214-695-0345 cell/text
 
I sorta copied this from the one in Van's RV-14, which was made out of wood. The aluminum is the C-01442C spacer used in the canopy frame construction with a hinge bolt at the aft end, The forward ends are rounded and padded to fit the pedal bar. The aft end presses against a piece of thick leather to avoid damaging the carpet. You have to adjust the length to make a tight fit. It's worked well for 4 years with no tendency to slip. Very easy and fast to install/uninstall. You can even reach down and yank it off on the takeoff roll if you forgot to remove it :)

IMG_0234.jpg
 
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Here is what I’ve used on all three RVs. The lines are tied (using a bowline knot) to the middle elevator hinges. The elevators are held in the nose up position using the seatbelt looped over the stick.
Carl
B2-BBA493-D8-E5-4635-9737-A85-B05-CB3615.jpg
 
I shamelessly copied this idea for the -10, should work for the -14:
Take the standard Bogart tow bar; add two tabs facing aft (when on the nose wheel) attached to the pieces on either side of the nose wheel. Put the tow bar into the cockpit, tab end down, handle up. Insert the tabs over the rudder bars. Move handle down, feeding control stick thru the triangular opening, pushing the handle firmly into the seat back. Loop seat belt over handle to keep it in place. Use other seat belt to pull control stick into the V of the tow bar. All three axes are now locked.
 
Steve and Allan are probably industry leaders. Here are my control surfaces locks. I am parked under the elements for nearly a decade and these held the gusts up to 50 knots.

all_my_locks_-_1.jpeg
 
Gust Locks

After a suggestion from fellow -14 owner at OSH, I am trying to fashing PVC tubes to hold my rudder pedals firm against wind gusts. No good. The slant of the pedals just pops the device (looks like a PVC 2-tine pitchfork at the moment) up and the rudders move freely.

Any other suggestions for a usable rudder control lock?

[email protected]
214-695-0345 cell/text


Here's what I use in my -10; I've seen a couple of -14s, but haven't paid enough attention to the cockpit design to know if it will work in that model.

The PVC portion is a minimal modification from what I received from the original builder when I purchased the A/C--thanks John and Teresa. I slip the short PVC segments over the bottoms of the starboard rudder pedals. The "arm" length was trimmed and the angle adjusted to allow a tight fit with a slight "over center"--when the crutch tip is jammed into the junction of the floor and bulkhead beneath the seat, e.g. the arm slopes up slightly in the direction of the rudder pedals. Note that the arm is offset from center so that the stick itself doesn't interfere with placement. The combination of pressure and rubber crutch tip minimizes slippage risk. I can install or remove while sitting in the cockpit. That locks the rudder, and if I'm just refueling, going to breakfast on a calm morning, or similar, that's all I do besides tiedowns.

If it's windy, or if I'm going to be away from the A/C for any significant period of time, I also secure the elevator and ailerons. Basically, one nylon strap passes through the outboard port-side seatbelt (Hooker) buckle, wraps x 2 around the starboard stick and back. That is repeated for the second strap on the opposite sides, creating an "X" pattern. The styrofoam cylinder (as used for physical therapy, and readily available from Amazon, as are the straps) is placed between the starboard stick and front of the seat before the straps are drawn tight. That leaves the elevator in a very slightly up orientation (it could be changed to slightly down by using a cylinder with a larger diameter). I've left the A/C for multiple days at KWJF (Lancaster, CA) on several occasions. Typical winds are in the 25 knot range there, with higher gusts--no issues.

No risk of departing with the locks installed. You couldn't get in and buckle up with the ailerons/elevator secured, and it would be difficult to taxi without noticing that the rudder pedals can't be moved.
 

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Rec antisplat lock

I used the pvc for several years but it would sometimes slip off. Feel Alan Nimmo’s device is much more secure and worth the cost.
 

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I use the PVC rudder gust lock and never had a problem. I think the key is that you need to widen the base at the stick end by giving a wider base with the "T" fitting. No chance of it slipping out of position.
 

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Picture would be great

I shamelessly copied this idea for the -10, should work for the -14:
Take the standard Bogart tow bar; add two tabs facing aft (when on the nose wheel) attached to the pieces on either side of the nose wheel. Put the tow bar into the cockpit, tab end down, handle up. Insert the tabs over the rudder bars. Move handle down, feeding control stick thru the triangular opening, pushing the handle firmly into the seat back. Loop seat belt over handle to keep it in place. Use other seat belt to pull control stick into the V of the tow bar. All three axes are now locked.

I don’t have the bogart bar but would consider getting one if it was easy to
Lock all three controls.

Thanks
 
After a suggestion from fellow -14 owner at OSH, I am trying to fashing PVC tubes to hold my rudder pedals firm against wind gusts. No good. The slant of the pedals just pops the device (looks like a PVC 2-tine pitchfork at the moment) up and the rudders move freely.

Any other suggestions for a usable rudder control lock?

[email protected]
214-695-0345 cell/text

Did you use a tee with half cut off at the pedal ends and fit to the bottom horizontal bar? That wont slip off. Pictures?
 
Another configuration…

If you cut the leg length right and use a pool noodle for cushioning it will roll down and go “over center” and sit in the gap between the floor carpet and panel cover carpet.
 

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I'm dense. I need photos of this set up in place.

Here's what I use in my -10; I've seen a couple of -14s, but haven't paid enough attention to the cockpit design to know if it will work in that model.

The PVC portion is a minimal modification from what I received from the original builder when I purchased the A/C--thanks John and Teresa. I slip the short PVC segments over the bottoms of the starboard rudder pedals. The "arm" length was trimmed and the angle adjusted to allow a tight fit with a slight "over center"--when the crutch tip is jammed into the junction of the floor and bulkhead beneath the seat, e.g. the arm slopes up slightly in the direction of the rudder pedals. Note that the arm is offset from center so that the stick itself doesn't interfere with placement. The combination of pressure and rubber crutch tip minimizes slippage risk. I can install or remove while sitting in the cockpit. That locks the rudder, and if I'm just refueling, going to breakfast on a calm morning, or similar, that's all I do besides tiedowns.

If it's windy, or if I'm going to be away from the A/C for any significant period of time, I also secure the elevator and ailerons. Basically, one nylon strap passes through the outboard port-side seatbelt (Hooker) buckle, wraps x 2 around the starboard stick and back. That is repeated for the second strap on the opposite sides, creating an "X" pattern. The styrofoam cylinder (as used for physical therapy, and readily available from Amazon, as are the straps) is placed between the starboard stick and front of the seat before the straps are drawn tight. That leaves the elevator in a very slightly up orientation (it could be changed to slightly down by using a cylinder with a larger diameter). I've left the A/C for multiple days at KWJF (Lancaster, CA) on several occasions. Typical winds are in the 25 knot range there, with higher gusts--no issues.

No risk of departing with the locks installed. You couldn't get in and buckle up with the ailerons/elevator secured, and it would be difficult to taxi without noticing that the rudder pedals can't be moved.
 
Photos "Installed"

[/ATTACH]
Please posts photos of in-place devices. Most of what you all are saying just goes right over my head.

As requested. Good timing--a day later and the seats would have been out in preparation for this year's Condition Inspection. Please excuse the old brake fluid stains. I guess I need to get after those. In one photo, just the rudder lock is installed, and it was installed hastily at that, so te alignment could be better. In the other photo, I installed one of the straps--port seatbelt to starboard stick. To complete the installation, you would connect the starboard seat belt buckle to the port stick with a second strap, and apply a little tension. When installing "for real", I normally loop the belt around the stick an extra time, although I don't know that doing so adds much. Where the elevator rests is a function of foam cylinder diameter and seat position.

Effective? Yes
Simple to build? Yes
Inexpensive? Yes
Lightweight? Yes
Elegant? ...Not so much.
 

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Locks

Although not cheap I found the gust locks from rvplastic parts work very well and quite effective. We've all got a lot of emotional and financial investments in our airframes and I sleep well when traveling knowing these are on. :)
 
These work

I used AirGizmos control lock and survived the Sun-N-Fun tornado of 2011. PVC control locks splintered and many others just flipped off the rudder or rudder pedals. These things work well but are grossly overpriced. You can make something similar for a few bucks. Remember your flight controls will likely be subjected to strong gusting winds from every direction, not a steady wind. Imagine grabbing your rudder and slamming in back and forth with a lot of force. Wind does that!



While we are on the subject, consider your tiedowns as well. I saw too many "Claw" tiedowns break during the tornado and the screw-in type pulled out easily. I made a set of tiedowns with three large spikes holding each wing. They held well. You might consider that your tiedown rings are the weak point! Mine didn't fare well in a Kansas windstorm.

 
I used the pvc for several years but it would sometimes slip off. Feel Alan Nimmo’s device is much more secure and worth the cost.

I agree 100%. Anti-Splat's 3-axis gust lock is ingenious. It is lightweight and locks elevator, ailerons, rudder. I'm NOT a fan of any kind of EXTERIOR flight control gust lock.... for obvious reasons.
 
Here's what I use in my -10; I've seen a couple of -14s, but haven't paid enough attention to the cockpit design to know if it will work in that model.

The PVC portion is a minimal modification from what I received from the original builder when I purchased the A/C--thanks John and Teresa. I slip the short PVC segments over the bottoms of the starboard rudder pedals. The "arm" length was trimmed and the angle adjusted to allow a tight fit with a slight "over center"--when the crutch tip is jammed into the junction of the floor and bulkhead beneath the seat, e.g. the arm slopes up slightly in the direction of the rudder pedals. Note that the arm is offset from center so that the stick itself doesn't interfere with placement. The combination of pressure and rubber crutch tip minimizes slippage risk. I can install or remove while sitting in the cockpit. That locks the rudder, and if I'm just refueling, going to breakfast on a calm morning, or similar, that's all I do besides tiedowns.

If it's windy, or if I'm going to be away from the A/C for any significant period of time, I also secure the elevator and ailerons. Basically, one nylon strap passes through the outboard port-side seatbelt (Hooker) buckle, wraps x 2 around the starboard stick and back. That is repeated for the second strap on the opposite sides, creating an "X" pattern. The styrofoam cylinder (as used for physical therapy, and readily available from Amazon, as are the straps) is placed between the starboard stick and front of the seat before the straps are drawn tight. That leaves the elevator in a very slightly up orientation (it could be changed to slightly down by using a cylinder with a larger diameter). I've left the A/C for multiple days at KWJF (Lancaster, CA) on several occasions. Typical winds are in the 25 knot range there, with higher gusts--no issues.

No risk of departing with the locks installed. You couldn't get in and buckle up with the ailerons/elevator secured, and it would be difficult to taxi without noticing that the rudder pedals can't be moved.

I would test these if I were you. I made something similar for the 6 and has worked very well for years. I made something similar for the 10 and it popped out during a heavy wind event in Iowa. I ended up making one out of steel. The 10 just had a lot bigger rudder, creating more force on the pedals, and the PVC had to be longer, allowing more flex.

Larry
 
There are multiple gust lock threads to reference on the WIKI under General construction PDF "Flight control gust lock options"
 
you don't want these bending because the shoulder of the bolt can move into the wing skin. use something with a lower profile like the tie down bolts from Cleveland tool. in this way the moment arm from the rope to the base of the bolt is reduced. these look heavy, they must be made from pig iron. big, red and ugly. made in China.
 
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After a suggestion from fellow -14 owner at OSH, I am trying to fashing PVC tubes to hold my rudder pedals firm against wind gusts. No good. The slant of the pedals just pops the device (looks like a PVC 2-tine pitchfork at the moment) up and the rudders move freely.

Any other suggestions for a usable rudder control lock?

AirGizmos gust lock for elevators and ailerons.
A 4" kitchen cabinet door handle for the rudder between rudder stop and rudder horn.
 

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Gust lock

I bought the Airsplat gust lock. After snapping off the bolt holding the foot lever (you’ll understand) I replaced the bolt and called Airsplat. With him on the phone he helped me adjust it and now it works great. I feel safe leaving my craft outside for a day or two now
 
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