VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

-POSTING RULES
-Advertise in here!
- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

Keep VAF Going
Donate methods

Point your
camera app here
to donate fast.

  #1  
Old 07-24-2022, 11:03 AM
jenelson1 jenelson1 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2022
Location: Waunakee, WI
Posts: 3
Default Painting

Hello All. You will be sick of me by the time I get all my questions asked. I see many planes that seem to paint the plane after it has been finished. Is there a reason behind this? I just brought home a project and I have paint and would like to paint some of the surfaces before they are on the plane. Has anyone done this as they go along? I will wait to do the graphics after it is together. I will Alumaprep, Alodine and then probably Poly-Fiber Aerothane. I have used this on my SeaReys and it works well. Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-24-2022, 12:01 PM
Carl Froehlich's Avatar
Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 3,833
Default

Iíve done it both ways; fly then paint and paint then fly. Pros and Cons for each:
- Paint then fly provides for easier prep. You still have to fully assemble the plane to get the rigging and wingtips fitted, so no savings there.
- Fly then paint. Here you get a second chance to find the weeping gas tank rivet before you screw up the paint job. You also get to do any needed mods that present themselves during Phase 1.

I made my decision based on the season. I painted the RV-10 before flying as this was fall going into winter. I painted the RV-8 after flying as it was spring and I did not want to miss the good flying weather.

Carl
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-24-2022, 12:09 PM
rv6n6r's Avatar
rv6n6r rv6n6r is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Gearhart Oregon
Posts: 527
Default

I would say there's a lot of people doing both, and neither is right or wrong.

In my case I hired paint out to a shop at a different field so it made sense for me to get the plane done and fly it to the paint shop at a later date.

There are a lot of factors, for example how complicated your scheme is and do stripes etc. cross independent surfaces, do you have a dedicated paint booth or not, could there be late-stage modifications -- just think it through and decide what's best for you.
__________________
Randall Henderson
RV-6 / O-360 / CS, 1600+ hrs, 1st flight Sept. 1999
Outstanding Workmanship OSH 2000, Craftsmanship award AWO 2000
Airport committee chair & AOPA ASNV for Seaside, OR Municipal (56S), www.seasideairport.org
Last Donated August 2022
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-24-2022, 12:17 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 2,440
Default No primer

So what do you all think about this:
Prime and paint the fiberglass bits (tips, canopy windscreen trim, aft skirt, etc) as they are done prior to final installation. Painter will do whole plan at a later date. This way, i am not flying around with primer parts.
__________________
John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2022, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
98% done, 2% left to go
Structure done (less gear)
Electrical/Panel done
Firewall Forward 95% done less baffles and airbox
Fiberglass 95%
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-24-2022, 12:33 PM
rv6n6r's Avatar
rv6n6r rv6n6r is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Gearhart Oregon
Posts: 527
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PilotjohnS View Post
So what do you all think about this:
Prime and paint the fiberglass bits (tips, canopy windscreen trim, aft skirt, etc) as they are done prior to final installation. Painter will do whole plan at a later date. This way, i am not flying around with primer parts.
My painter didn't want to see any pre-primed parts, on account of potential materials compatibility issues. Also the primer is intended to chemically bond with paint and you lose that once it fully cures (or so I'm told / have read). There are some exceptions (for example steel hinge brackets, interior that won't get top-coated), but that's the common wisdom as I understand it.
__________________
Randall Henderson
RV-6 / O-360 / CS, 1600+ hrs, 1st flight Sept. 1999
Outstanding Workmanship OSH 2000, Craftsmanship award AWO 2000
Airport committee chair & AOPA ASNV for Seaside, OR Municipal (56S), www.seasideairport.org
Last Donated August 2022
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-24-2022, 02:49 PM
jenelson1 jenelson1 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2022
Location: Waunakee, WI
Posts: 3
Default Paint booth

I have an inflatable paint booth that fits in my hangar. It works very well and have amazed even myself how things come out. I just finished a hull for a SeaRey. I don't have a lot of money in the guns but the mid grade HVLP gun from Harbor Freight works good.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20220623_211726923_iOS.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	199.1 KB
ID:	28591  Click image for larger version

Name:	20200518_200949347_iOS.jpg
Views:	103
Size:	367.4 KB
ID:	28592  
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-24-2022, 03:57 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 5,517
Default Fiberglass

Quote:
Originally Posted by PilotjohnS View Post
So what do you all think about this:
Prime and paint the fiberglass bits (tips, canopy windscreen trim, aft skirt, etc) as they are done prior to final installation. Painter will do whole plan at a later date. This way, i am not flying around with primer parts.
That's what I am doing. Aluminum was all Alodined. Plan is to vinyl wrap the aluminum.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
E-mail: wirejock at yahoo dot com
Builder Blog: http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
Donated 12/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-24-2022, 10:01 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 2,440
Default Choices

Quote:
Originally Posted by rv6n6r View Post
My painter didn't want to see any pre-primed parts, on account of potential materials compatibility issues. Also the primer is intended to chemically bond with paint and you lose that once it fully cures (or so I'm told / have read). There are some exceptions (for example steel hinge brackets, interior that won't get top-coated), but that's the common wisdom as I understand it.
So I started using the rattle can primer on the fiberglass tips for the tail feathers. But that got me thinking that this primer is not very good. So i plan to take that off and spray with some very high quality Sherwin -Williams aircraft primer that is compatible with the paint I plan to specify for the whole plane. I figure it cant be worse than repainting an existing aircraft.

OK I have rethought this when looking at another thread on paint buffing. painting now CAN be worse that not painting since removing old paint could be tough. maybe i will just paint the inside and leave primer on the outside.




As others have said, don't expect the painter to fix all your mistakes. therefore I have to fix them as I build.

Lastly, I see the difficulty in painting the canopy skirts, especially on the inside, once they are glued on.

But I understand your comment on compatibility. Hence the reason I spent $$ on good primer and top coat, and just got done building a paint booth to reduce the amount of prep the eventual painter will need to do.
__________________
John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2022, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
98% done, 2% left to go
Structure done (less gear)
Electrical/Panel done
Firewall Forward 95% done less baffles and airbox
Fiberglass 95%
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com

Last edited by PilotjohnS : 07-25-2022 at 10:44 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-25-2022, 07:25 AM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 5,517
Default Paint

Quote:
Originally Posted by PilotjohnS View Post
...<snip>

Lastly, I see the difficulty in painting the canopy skirts, especially on the inside, once they are glued on.

<snip>...
Paint the skirt befire bonding. Cleko the skirt. Climb in. Mark the bonding areas. Remove. Mask the bonding areas. Paint the rest. Bond it in place. It was more difficult to paint it on the canopy but I didn't have a choice. I didn't want fasterners showing. It's Siflexed using clekos. Remove the clekos. Fill and prep. Mask the rest. Paint.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
E-mail: wirejock at yahoo dot com
Builder Blog: http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
Donated 12/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-25-2022, 07:58 AM
Carl Froehlich's Avatar
Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 3,833
Default

For builders that do their own exterior paint, I suggest:
- Finish the fiberglass parts, all the way to the point they are ready for final paint. Use the same primer that you will use for final paint. I use PPG DP-40LF two part expoxy primer for everything - it is fully compatable with all the PPG urethane paints. When time for final paint fix any remaining defects, sand with 400 or so grit paper then prime and top coat.
- Final paint the interior. Do this during construction not after flying. This is done once all the parts have been fabricated, fitted and parts that can be removed are out (so you donít end up messing the paint job). I use the same PPG primer but single stage PPG urethane top coat. This wears like iron - in the previous builds now going back 20 years the interior still looks like the day it was painted.
- As previously posted, things like the inside of the canopy skirt need to be final painted before assembly.
- I use the same single stage PPG top coat (but a darker shade of gray) for all the powered coated stuff as well as baffles, the panel and such. I hate the bland powered coat - it just looks unfinished.

Here is a simple paint booth I made from a neighborís old party tent. It does the job.



Carl
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:18 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.