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  #1  
Old 07-23-2021, 03:23 PM
TASEsq TASEsq is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 343
Default Flap trailing edge riveting?

I canít see any instruction to rivet the flap trailing edge.

I assume it is done between 21-10 step 7 and 8?
(After the adhesive has cured but before bottom skin is pull riveted)
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  #2  
Old 07-26-2021, 06:28 PM
mc607 mc607 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Canada
Posts: 62
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Yes, any time after step 7. I used a couple pieces of 1ĒX1Ē angle, match drilled to trailing edge to hold in place until proseal sets up. (As per Mitch from Vanís) This works well and can be used again on ailerons. The tape in the picture was abandoned. I rubbed the angles with a light film of Vaseline instead. Didnít want the angles getting prosealed in place. Go easy on the proseal. On my ailerons I went a bit heavy and it resulted in a wavy finish in rivet line.

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  #3  
Old 07-26-2021, 08:29 PM
TASEsq TASEsq is offline
 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
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I have used the VHB tape for everything so far but it must be 3 years old now and I’ve heard it has an expiry date - so I might try the Proseal method.

I assume you basically scrape almost all of it off? How do you ensure that it doesn’t build up in the countersinks and hold the skin away from the trailing edge piece? I riveted my tanks wet for this reason - could never believe that a clecod part would be as tight as a riveted one and couldn’t get my head around how the Proseal in the dimples wouldn’t hold the parts away from each other. Or do you clean out the countersinks of proseal somehow? (Difficult since the part is tiny and would have Proseal on both sides.)

Having said all that, apparently the adhesive isn’t structural, so maybe the tape would be fine.
https://vansairforce.net/community/s...22&postcount=7
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Last edited by TASEsq : 07-26-2021 at 08:32 PM.
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  #4  
Old 07-26-2021, 10:01 PM
mc607 mc607 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Canada
Posts: 62
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I use bamboo skewers, a scale to measure 10:1 and yogurt lids. I use the blunt end to mix the proseal and then scoop some onto the end of the skewer and roll it onto the trailing edge. Donít let any get in the countersunk holes. If you get some in then soak a qtip in MEK and clean it out. I would recommend making up a small trailing edge from scrap skin and T.E. pieces and give it a try. Go slow and be patient. Donít need much, just enough to ďpaintĒ it dark grey. Itís only as messy as you make it. The skin and T.E. have to be clean first before applying, same as VHB. Need rubber gloves and a shirt you donít like. Usually takes 3-4 days before itís ready to rivet. Keep the leftover proseal sitting in shop near part to check proper setup.
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  #5  
Old 07-27-2021, 09:59 AM
n4322b n4322b is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Scotland
Posts: 39
Default VHB Tape

As an ear;ier post suggested It's not structural and so if it has enough holding power to keep the edges together while rivetting (with clecos helping) it will be fine.

The roll I bought for mine is now five years old and functional - the VANS recommended 3M version wasn't cheap in UK.

Far better than pro-seal and quicker
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  #6  
Old 07-27-2021, 02:27 PM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n4322b View Post
As an ear;ier post suggested It's not structural and so if it has enough holding power to keep the edges together while rivetting (with clecos helping) it will be fine.

The roll I bought for mine is now five years old and functional - the VANS recommended 3M version wasn't cheap in UK.

Far better than pro-seal and quicker
Plus one for this method.
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  #7  
Old 07-28-2021, 08:57 PM
StressedOut StressedOut is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Fullerton, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TASEsq View Post
I have used the VHB tape for everything so far but it must be 3 years old now and Iíve heard it has an expiry date - so I might try the Proseal method.

I assume you basically scrape almost all of it off? How do you ensure that it doesnít build up in the countersinks and hold the skin away from the trailing edge piece? I riveted my tanks wet for this reason - could never believe that a clecod part would be as tight as a riveted one and couldnít get my head around how the Proseal in the dimples wouldnít hold the parts away from each other. Or do you clean out the countersinks of proseal somehow? (Difficult since the part is tiny and would have Proseal on both sides.)

Having said all that, apparently the adhesive isnít structural, so maybe the tape would be fine.
https://vansairforce.net/community/s...22&postcount=7
If you apply sealant with a foam roller you will not deposit any of it in the countersinks. It only puts it on the surfaces it touches. You can get the rollers in the aviation department at Home Depot.
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