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Remove Oil tank w/o Purging System?

JFCRV12

Well Known Member
Is there a way to remove the Oil Tank without needing to purge system? I had thought I found a youtube video on it, but can no longer find it.

Basically, I need to remove for two reasons:
  1. I'm Installing Reiff Engine Preheater and there's a sticker on back of tank I'd like to remove before putting hot band over it. (I think not removing it would be a bad idea?)
  2. I'm also a member of the sinker club and re-installing the carb bowl on that side will be much easier without the tank in the way.

Thanks!
 
The oil tank can be removed easily. I would burb the engine when hot and then drain the tank. Hot oil drains faster and more completely. This is no different than the procedure for a standard oil change. Don’ turn the engine again until the tank reinstalled and filled with oil.

Removing sticker is your choice. I think band-type heaters are pretty low wattage and the tank will act as a huge heat sink. I think no problem.

Float bowl removal for the right carb is easily accomplished without the removal of the oil tank. Remove carb from rubber socket on intake manifold with throttle and enrichment cables still attached. I can’t remember if the air cleaner needs to be removed first. Hold carb in your hand to remove bale wire and float bowl.
 
Thanks Jim - yep - got the bowl out. I was more concerned about getting it back in. The manipulation is pain, but obviously possible. Guess I'll give it a shot first then if I struggle, remove the tank.

The band is 50 watt and there's a thermostat that turns it off when tank temp is 90F. Didn't know if that would start to burn the sticker.

The oil tank can be removed easily. I would burb the engine when hot and then drain the tank. Hot oil drains faster and more completely. This is no different than the procedure for a standard oil change. Don’ turn the engine again until the tank reinstalled and filled with oil.

Removing sticker is your choice. I think band-type heaters are pretty low wattage and the tank will act as a huge heat sink. I think no problem.

Float bowl removal for the right carb is easily accomplished without the removal of the oil tank. Remove carb from rubber socket on intake manifold with throttle and enrichment cables still attached. I can’t remember if the air cleaner needs to be removed first. Hold carb in your hand to remove bale wire and float bowl.
 
Thanks Dale! Sounds like my work ahead of me is that much easier. Only complaint about the Reiff so far is that the power cord is LONG. Lots to bundle up and zip tie so it's not rattling/floating around in there.

No, it won't.
 
The band is 50 watt and there's a thermostat that turns it off when tank temp is 90F.

When installing the thermostat for the oil tank, I had completely overlooked scuffing up the oil tank at the location where the thermostat is epoxied ... and it came off.

After giving the area a really good scuffing and a few cleaning cycles with Acetone, the thermostat was epoxied back in place and has been fine ever since. So my tip is scuff well and clean well.
 
Had exactly that happen to me yesterday! Re-did properly. Hopefully it sticks for me now too. No idea how/why I missed it. I've done these systems before and really cleaned/scuffed/prepped the case.

When installing the thermostat for the oil tank, I had completely overlooked scuffing up the oil tank at the location where the thermostat is epoxied ... and it came off.

After giving the area a really good scuffing and a few cleaning cycles with Acetone, the thermostat was epoxied back in place and has been fine ever since. So my tip is scuff well and clean well.
 
Is there a way to remove the Oil Tank without needing to purge system?

I’ve not done this yet, so am interested in the responses. But does one not need to also cap the supply and return oil lines when disconnecting them from the oil canister lid? Maybe it’s assumed that’s required, but best to ask those who have done this before.
 
SI-912-018 (The S.I. that requires purging of the oil system) says

1.5) Compliance
These inspections have to be performed
- before first engine run,
- after re-installation (e.g. after overhaul),
- after lubrication system opened and drained during maintenance work (e.g. removal of oil
pump, oil cooler or suction line).
NOTE: Not affected are the removal and replacement of components that do not drain the oil
pressure galleries.


So if you are able to avoid draining the suction hose, it seems that your are fine not doing a purge afterwards, though I would recommend burping the system well before starting, to try and assure that the entire system is full of oil.
 
Basically, what Scott says, however, burping the engine only purges the crankcase. In order to assure the entire system is full, the oil pump would need to be spun-up and generate pressure.
 
Basically, what Scott says, however, burping the engine only purges the crankcase. In order to assure the entire system is full, the oil pump would need to be spun-up and generate pressure.

Turning the propeller also turns the oil pump, so I agree that just doing the burp procedure wont get oil pressure, it does move oil from the oil tank.

If it didn't, there would be a big slug of air moved through the system at every engine start.
 
I believe Rotax recommends something along the lines of pulling a spark plug from each cylinder and pulling the propeller through 20 rotations to prime the oil system after an oil change.

Be sure to put the heat transfer dispersant thermal paste lube required by Rotax back on the threads of the spark plugs before reinserting into the cylinder heads.

https://www.rotax-owner.com/.../399-rm-spark-plug-thermal-paste- application



Might want to check that out on the Rotax forums to get a second opinion. ;)
 
Last edited:
Just the yesterday I did an oil and filter change and decided to remove the oil tank. The last time I had disassembled the tank for inspection was in 2018 (and found it clean then with 246 hrs of operation).

I recalled from the Service & Maintenance classes I took from Lockwood Aviation (Dean)in 2013 we did a shop exercise removing and disassembling the oil tank. The key was when the oil hoses were removed you need to secure them upward, not letting them hang down, and this would keep air from being introduced into the suction line.

I used a piece of safety wire through an eyelet of the top cowl hinge. Once both hoses were loose I lifted them up and wired them in the up position. The oil had been removed from the tank already so I took the tank off, and opened it up. Again very clean with maybe a little lead sludge about the size of a dime. Wiped the tank clean inside and reassembled. Once secure in the oil tank mount the oil hoses were reconnected.

I completed the oil change like instructed in the Rotax Owner video and all looks good.
 
Oil Tank removal and cleaning

Here is the YouTube link for the video that does a good job explaining the procedure. Don't know how to make it a hot link

youtu.be/JNKOsBsb3cw

I found it under the search "Rotax 912 oil tank cleaning"
 
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