What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Discouraging issues, looking for input

Have you checked the wheel nut on each side to see if the tires rotate too freely, this could cause shimmy on landing and I have witnessed tires rotating at high speeds in flight which may even cause airframe vibration.
 
Get some help

Get someone (if you already haven't done so) who is a long time RV pilot to fly with you. Why extend this agony any longer?
 
E. D. Eliot said:
Get someone (if you already haven't done so) who is a long time RV pilot to fly with you. Why extend this agony any longer?
Click to expand...

I extended it this long because I was still in phase 1 and cannot take passengers. I just finished the 40 hours on Saturday and its been raining ever since. Figures.
 
Pat Stewart said:
Have you checked the wheel nut on each side to see if the tires rotate too freely, this could cause shimmy on landing and I have witnessed tires rotating at high speeds in flight which may even cause airframe vibration.
Click to expand...

Tire changed solved the wheel shimmy problem, I think the old ones were just permanently flat spotted from sitting for so long. Thanks though.
 
Ironflight said:
I think you have a lead to follow here Matt. Do you have turn-down tips on yor exhaust pipes? If not, get a set (Vetterman has them) and see if it makes a difference.
Click to expand...

I do not have turn down tips, maybe I will give that a try. This area will be my next shot at finding a solution.
 
flyenforfun said:
I do not have turn down tips, maybe I will give that a try. This area will be my next shot at finding a solution.
Click to expand...

The tunnel skin seems to collect a lot of acoustical energy even with the turned down tips, so it's probably even worse with straight tips. Many builders reinforce the tunnel skin with internal or external stiffeners, and they still tend to vibrate enough to crack even on relatively low-hour airframes.

So I'm with Paul on this one. Either get the turned-down tips or prototype some scheme to deflect the exhaust away from the tunnel skin.

Thanks, Bob K.
 
Bob Kuykendall said:
The tunnel skin seems to collect a lot of acoustical energy even with the turned down tips, so it's probably even worse with straight tips. Many builders reinforce the tunnel skin with internal or external stiffeners, and they still tend to vibrate enough to crack even on relatively low-hour airframes.

So I'm with Paul on this one. Either get the turned-down tips or prototype some scheme to deflect the exhaust away from the tunnel skin.

Thanks, Bob K.
Click to expand...

Anyone know where I can buy the correct turn down tips? Cant seem to find anywhere to buy on vettermans website
 
Worth a try?

My grumman tiger with a 360 engine produces a vibration that I can feel through the airfram if the engine is not leaned properly. If it is rich the plane will feel like it is pulsing a little. When it is leaned too much, then it stumbles slightly and you can feel that through the airframe as well.

I don't have any fancy engine monitoring equipment, but you might just play with the leaning and see if it has an impact. I can tell blindfolded if the engine is leaned correctly.
 
Cowl baffles

I had similar vibration issues on my RV9A, they began always when building up airspeed greater than 95 kt. When I put back the upper cowl after maintenance, the left baffle crushed backwards instead of forward. Building up speed, this peace of rubber drummed against the cowl like a flag in the wind. Just stick your hand into the oil check door, or look inside with the help of a flashlight and see if the baffles are bent forward.
 
Last edited:
Engine/Tires Vibrating/Heavy wing

Check to make sure the engine or part of it is not hitting inside the cow! Once that is clear I have read that the leading piston on the left is to be on the compression stroke as the propeller blade is horizontal with the ground, I did set mine up this way just to make sure. check the propeller tracking.

Wheel shake problem: I just found that my left wheel shakes a lot. First I installed the wooden stiffeners on the gear legs. Then when I jacked up the tire I found it to be out of round, not good! An egg shapped tire is hard to ride on even in a car.

Heavy Wing Problem: Make sure to check the vertial stabilizer allignment, that can be done easly with a string attached or held at the center of the front of the fuselage and place the string on each side of the stab. to see that there is equal distance on each side.
 
Well I ordered the turn down tips and I am very hopeful that this will solve my vibration issue. I found out while flying the other day with my dad in the front seat (first time) that the exhaust is definitely causing a heavy vibration and hopefully THE vibration. He is much taller than me so the pedals are much more forward when he is flying. His heals are on the floor deadening the vibration, when he lifts his feet up, the plane sounds and feels how it is for me all the time when I fly. The pedal position for me puts my heels behind this point on the floor.

So I think I have two out of 3 issues resolved. Last thing is the heavy wing. I have narrowed it down to aileron symmetry, and found out that changing the trailing edges can solve it. Combo of squeezing the light wing and tapping a board on the trailing edge of the heavy wing actually made the opposite wing heavy. Hopefully in the next few days, all issues will be solved! I cant thank everyone enough for all of the help, comments, suggestions, etc. Also a big thanks to Van's, and Mitch Lock the east coast rep.
 
It takes awhile to sort out a new plane. It takes awhile to sort out an old plane. They will suck your life away, but you probably don't have anything better to do. I know I don't.
 
hecilopter said:
There is a jig in the kit that locks the aileron bellcrank in centered position.
Click to expand...

Is that shown somewhere on the plans? I bought a -4 and have a heavy right wing. I'd like to start at the beginning and set everything up as mentioned using that jig. But I don't have one, so would like to find out how to get, or make, one. I can't find it in my May, 2011, preview plans.

Thanks,
 
You are not alone!

I have zero RV experience to date (and am working to change that!), but I do work for a major GA manufacturer here in Wichita Kansas... and the heavy wing situation is a common squawk on new aircraft. It is commonly referred to as "wheelcock" and on some production aircraft it can take the production flight test department and mechanics numerous flights to fix. In fact, the problem often alternates left and right as adjustments are made, and in the process frustrates pilots, mechanics, and inspectors alike.

At any rate, I'm glad you are closing in on solving your issues and thanks to all those who posted advice - I've learned a lot and filed this thread away for future reference. :D
 
nharwood said:
I have zero RV experience to date (and am working to change that!), but I do work for a major GA manufacturer here in Wichita Kansas... and the heavy wing situation is a common squawk on new aircraft. It is commonly referred to as "wheelcock" and on some production aircraft it can take the production flight test department and mechanics numerous flights to fix. In fact, the problem often alternates left and right as adjustments are made, and in the process frustrates pilots, mechanics, and inspectors alike.

At any rate, I'm glad you are closing in on solving your issues and thanks to all those who posted advice - I've learned a lot and filed this thread away for future reference. :D
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reassurance that I am not alone. And yes hopefully this thread will be a great resource for builders in the future. Lots of suggestions in here. I think most people will be able to find a reply in this thread that applies to them.
 
ccsmith51 said:
Is that shown somewhere on the plans? I bought a -4 and have a heavy right wing. I'd like to start at the beginning and set everything up as mentioned using that jig. But I don't have one, so would like to find out how to get, or make, one. I can't find it in my May, 2011, preview plans.

Thanks,
Click to expand...

I cant remember whether it was a pre-made part or a template I had to make. I am pretty sure that it is a part Van's gives you. You just stick it up in the inspection panel and use the two holes in it to line up your bellcrank.

Through this whole process, I've finally determined that my issue is aileron symmetry. I have raised and lowered flaps, adjusted push rods, sanded wing tips, loosened wing tips to try and get them to move up and down, checked incidence, elevators trailing edges, gear fairings on and off, etc. Found out in the end my rig and setup was probably perfect in the beginning, and I just screwed it up trying to chase down the problem. Now, I may have never found my issue if I didn't do any of that, but in the end, my heavy wing was caused by the shape of my ailerons. Every other change I made had very little effect, if any effect at all.
 
I JUST CANT GET IT

Well I am looking for my last bit of help here. All issues have been resolved except for my heavy wing. Going to have to dig a little deeper for this one. I have gone through that vans heavy wing analysis document several times and checked everything.. rigging, incidence, etc. Flew with gear leg fairings and wheel pants on and off. Ball is centered. Everything checks out fine.

Had a very heavy left wing. Let go of the stick, ailerons deflect, plane rolls. Figured after checking everything else, it was all due to aileron symmetry. Ended up squeezing right hand aileron. Got a little better. Squeezed more and more until I felt like the trailing edge shouldn't be squeezed anymore. The whole trailing edge has a very noticeably smaller radius. Took off, climbing out, right wing was heavy instead, so I thought yay at least now I can tweak it to center, but then as I leveled off and sped up, the left wing was still heavy. I even tried increasing the radius of the heavy wing aileron per a suggestion from vans.

So now I have a right heavy wing on takeoff, left heavy in cruise, and as soon as I slow down to get into the pattern the right wing is heavy. I have to trim way left, then right, then left every flight.

I am at a loss now. My trailing edges on the ground are all lined up, ive adjusted aileron push rods, flap rods, ended up reverting to original config. Just can't figure this one out, I feel like I have only made it worse. Only things I haven't done... I haven't slotted an aileron bracket and raised or lowered it. I don't know which one to slot and which direction to move it, and they don't seem incorrect. I am willing to try this though.

I also haven't flown without the trim springs. Can you fly without the trim springs? These springs make me worried that I have been fighting a problem that doesn't exist, because when I set the neutral position of the trim on my dynon, I just trimmed it til it felt like center then set that position on the dynon, the green line on the indicator to indicate center is toward the left hand quarter of the line. Hope that makes sense. For example, if I set the trim to "neutral" where it doesn't deflect my ailerons left or right on the ground my indicator looks like:

|....C....:..........|

The C is the green line indicating "neutral". When the trim position is at the C on the ground, the ailerons arent deflected by the springs.

Any thoughts at all?
 
Last edited:
trim springs

By trim springs do you mean the optional Vans aileron trim? If so, yeah, remove them. That's an optional system, not one required for flight.
 
Definitely get rid of the springs and ignore the trim indicator. I'm betting you need to slot the hinge(s). Once you start raising/lowering the ends, I bet you'll see definitive changes. 1/8" up/downs make a big difference.
 
aerhed said:
Definitely get rid of the springs and ignore the trim indicator. I'm betting you need to slot the hinge(s). Once you start raising/lowering the ends, I bet you'll see definitive changes. 1/8" up/downs make a big difference.
Click to expand...

So just by looking at the things, I cant tell if one is higher than the other.. so what would you suggest trying? Lower the heavy wing aileron? Raise the light wing? Is that how it works?
 
ccsmith51 said:
Is that shown somewhere on the plans? I bought a -4 and have a heavy right wing. I'd like to start at the beginning and set everything up as mentioned using that jig. But I don't have one, so would like to find out how to get, or make, one. I can't find it in my May, 2011, preview plans.

Thanks,
Click to expand...

Chris, I think the 4 uses a profile pattern cut out of plywood. Van's has the pattern on one plans sheet. Or you might find a 6 builder that would loan you the pattern or the plywood jig.

Good luck
 
Thanks for the input Warren. I found a procedure in the preview plans that says to align the bell cranks in the proper position (it gives a measurement) and then drill a #40 hole through the bell crank and mounting angles, and use the drill as a locating pin.

I did that and then started the alignment method. I removed the right wing tip and the right aileron tooling holes were in line with the wing rib tooling holes. Good deal, just like it was supposed to be.

Then I removed the left wing tip and found that the left aileron was quite higher than it was supposed to be. It took 3.5 turns on the rod end to get it aligned.

Then I reinstalled the left wing tip and the aileron was right where it was supposed to be in reference to the tip. Then aligned the flap to the aileron. All looked good there. Flap up in proper position, all trailing edges aligned. "This is looking great!" I thought.

Then I put the right wing tip on and as on the left side the aileron was right where it was supposed to be in reference to the tip. So I aligned the flap to the aileron and thgouht "Whoa, what is going on here???" The left flap was down quite a bit in reference to the full up position! So, there must be some twist in the aileron or flap or both. In any case I readjusted the flap so that it is full up and the flap trailing edge is about 3/8" above the aileron trailing edge.

I made some test flights and the right wing heaviness is much less than before. I was thinking that I could drop the right flap a bit, but when I looked at the ailerons in flight, with hands off the stick, the left aileron was flying a bit higher than the wing tip, and the right aileron was flying a bit lower than the wing tip. If I move the stick to the center position to align the ailerons with the tips there is a left roll.

All checking is done with the ball centered.

So, before I mess with the flaps I'd like to get the ailerons to fly in their proper positions. Would squeezing the right aileron, or tapping the left aileron, or both, have an effect on where the ailerons are in flight?

Thanks,
 
ccsmith51 said:
Thanks for the input Warren. I found a procedure in the preview plans that says to align the bell cranks in the proper position (it gives a measurement) and then drill a #40 hole through the bell crank and mounting angles, and use the drill as a locating pin.

I did that and then started the alignment method. I removed the right wing tip and the right aileron tooling holes were in line with the wing rib tooling holes. Good deal, just like it was supposed to be.

Then I removed the left wing tip and found that the left aileron was quite higher than it was supposed to be. It took 3.5 turns on the rod end to get it aligned.

Then I reinstalled the left wing tip and the aileron was right where it was supposed to be in reference to the tip. Then aligned the flap to the aileron. All looked good there. Flap up in proper position, all trailing edges aligned. "This is looking great!" I thought.

Then I put the right wing tip on and as on the left side the aileron was right where it was supposed to be in reference to the tip. So I aligned the flap to the aileron and thgouht "Whoa, what is going on here???" The left flap was down quite a bit in reference to the full up position! So, there must be some twist in the aileron or flap or both. In any case I readjusted the flap so that it is full up and the flap trailing edge is about 3/8" above the aileron trailing edge.

I made some test flights and the right wing heaviness is much less than before. I was thinking that I could drop the right flap a bit, but when I looked at the ailerons in flight, with hands off the stick, the left aileron was flying a bit higher than the wing tip, and the right aileron was flying a bit lower than the wing tip. If I move the stick to the center position to align the ailerons with the tips there is a left roll.

All checking is done with the ball centered.

So, before I mess with the flaps I'd like to get the ailerons to fly in their proper positions. Would squeezing the right aileron, or tapping the left aileron, or both, have an effect on where the ailerons are in flight?

Thanks,
Click to expand...

I wouldn't squeeze the ailerons just yet because it sounds like your problem is a bit different than mine. When I fly straight and level with the stick centered, the plan does not roll, the ball is centered, and my ailerons, flaps, and wing tips are all in trail. When I let go of the stick, my ailerons deflect and my airplane banks. This indicates an aileron symmetry problem.

If I am understanding you correctly, it sounds like you are having a problem with you positioning and adjustments. Van's had told me to make sure that when I stand behind the airplane on the ground, the wing tips, ailerons, and flaps all make a laser line. I would first make sure all of your stuff is adjusted correctly. If you haven't done this yet, take off your wing tips and align the tooling holes in the end wing rib with the tooling holes in your aileron. This puts your aileron in the right spot. Align your flaps to this aileron position as well as your wing tips. If you align the tooling holes on one side of the airplane and your other aileron is high or low you need to adjust the pushrods. Hopefully I am understanding you correctly, but I would eliminate the possibility of adjustments or rigging being the problem before you start changing the shape of your ailerons.

One thing I also recently learned that I wish I did from the beginning is do your heavy wing testing without the trim springs installed. My heavy wing problem became very different once I removed them, I was fighting a problem that didn't exist. Also, try flying without any gear leg fairings or wheel pants to eliminate them as a cause.
 
So after slotting my left had outboard aileron bracket and lowering the aileron, my left heavy wing at cruise speed is gone. I still have the right heavy wing at slow speeds :confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:!!

Any ideas? I tried playing with the trailing edges of the ailerons and it just brought back some of the left roll at cruise speeds
 
ccsmith51 said:
Thanks for the input Warren. I found a procedure in the preview plans that says to align the bell cranks in the proper position (it gives a measurement) and then drill a #40 hole through the bell crank and mounting angles, and use the drill as a locating pin.

I did that and then started the alignment method. I removed the right wing tip and the right aileron tooling holes were in line with the wing rib tooling holes. Good deal, just like it was supposed to be.

Then I removed the left wing tip and found that the left aileron was quite higher than it was supposed to be. It took 3.5 turns on the rod end to get it aligned.

Then I reinstalled the left wing tip and the aileron was right where it was supposed to be in reference to the tip. Then aligned the flap to the aileron. All looked good there. Flap up in proper position, all trailing edges aligned. "This is looking great!" I thought.

Then I put the right wing tip on and as on the left side the aileron was right where it was supposed to be in reference to the tip. So I aligned the flap to the aileron and thgouht "Whoa, what is going on here???" The left flap was down quite a bit in reference to the full up position! So, there must be some twist in the aileron or flap or both. In any case I readjusted the flap so that it is full up and the flap trailing edge is about 3/8" above the aileron trailing edge.

I made some test flights and the right wing heaviness is much less than before. I was thinking that I could drop the right flap a bit, but when I looked at the ailerons in flight, with hands off the stick, the left aileron was flying a bit higher than the wing tip, and the right aileron was flying a bit lower than the wing tip. If I move the stick to the center position to align the ailerons with the tips there is a left roll.

All checking is done with the ball centered.

So, before I mess with the flaps I'd like to get the ailerons to fly in their proper positions. Would squeezing the right aileron, or tapping the left aileron, or both, have an effect on where the ailerons are in flight?

Thanks,
Click to expand...

If I understand the last adjustment you made, there are a couple of things to keep in mind.
1- The aileron is set based on the procedure you have just followed, using the tooling hole. In addition and to confirm, you can use a straight edge to confirm that the position of the aileron is in line with the wing (this is just to double check things).
2- Set the flap in line and relation to the aileron, in neutral position. Keep in mind that the flap will be pushed up a bit in the air if you don?t have a stop for it. But it is of little movement and depending on how tightly is set.
3- The wing tips needs to be set in relation to the aileron, again in the neutral position. Often times the wing tip needs to be readjusted by cutting the trailing edge and re-glassing it so it goes in the correct position as there is no adjustment for it during the final assembly. This mod often times is done during the building stage. Also, the wing tip has the lease amount of influence in the plane roll tendency.

So if you are flying and the plane is flying level but you see a bit of up/down aileron (in relation to wing tip), this means that you symmetry is correct but will need to adjust the wing tips, if that is important to you.

I hope these help.
 
Mehrdad and the rest,

Thanks for the input and suggestions.

I aligned the tooling holes in the wing and aileron ribs. The right aileron was correctly set, the left aileron was way up, to the tune of 3.5 turns on the rod end to get it properly aligned. When that was done I reinstalled the wing tips and they lined up with the ailerons.

When I aligned the flaps to the ailerons, the left flap was in the full up position, but the right flap was considerably down. I adjusted it to the up position and it now sits about 3/8" above the aileron.

I have confirmed that my ailerons do not extend above the wing skin. In fact, they are about 1/8" below. I have not yet checked my plans to see the correct position, but will do that soon.

My flap motor and/or actuator crapped out, and I am converting to manual flaps. When I get that all back together, I'll remove the aileron trim springs and see how it flies. I put the aileron trim in last year because of a heavy right wing.

I will be gone for two weeks so it will be a bit of time before I get back to the hangar to work. I'll report what I find after I perform the above.

Thanks,
 
Well I am looking for final inputs, I have made very little progress on my heavy wing. This past week:

I lowered the outboard aileron hinge - Left wing heavy in cruise was GONE. Right wing still heavy at slow speed.

Sqeezed aileron a bit, went right back to having left wing heavy fast and right wing heavy slow.

Did some lowering of right hand aileron brackets - made very little heavy wing when slow, very heavy wing when fast.

So now I have NO idea what to do. I have only been able to get the plane to be heavy one way or the other. I feel like I have checked everything and tried every combination, but no matter what I do, the ailerons still deflect at different speeds and I still get a heavy wing. I am beyond frustrated.
 
flyenforfun said:
Well I am looking for final inputs, I have made very little progress on my heavy wing. This past week:

I lowered the outboard aileron hinge - Left wing heavy in cruise was GONE. Right wing still heavy at slow speed.

Sqeezed aileron a bit, went right back to having left wing heavy fast and right wing heavy slow.

Did some lowering of right hand aileron brackets - made very little heavy wing when slow, very heavy wing when fast.

So now I have NO idea what to do. I have only been able to get the plane to be heavy one way or the other. I feel like I have checked everything and tried every combination, but no matter what I do, the ailerons still deflect at different speeds and I still get a heavy wing. I am beyond frustrated.
Click to expand...

Maybe I have officially stumped everyone.
 
ccsmith51 said:
When I aligned the flaps to the ailerons, the left flap was in the full up position, but the right flap was considerably down. I adjusted it to the up position and it now sits about 3/8" above the aileron.
\
Click to expand...

I don't understand this...if the ailerons are properly aligned using the tooling holes in the wing ribs and the aft end of the aileron, then the flaps should line up precisely with that position when in the up position, no?

3/8" is a lot of non-alignment...

Granted, I'm not flying yet, but having helped with an -8, we made sure that the ailerons and flaps were in perfect alignment (and are doing the same on my -7 at this time).
 
I'm not going to review the whole thread to check, but if you are getting a shift in lateral trim with airspeed changes, I believe that is a hallmark of the trim bias springs exerting influence. Are your lateral trim springs disconnected during your adjustments? If so....ignore this post:D
 
ccsmith51 said:
Thanks for the input Warren. I found a procedure in the preview plans that says to align the bell cranks in the proper position (it gives a measurement) and then drill a #40 hole through the bell crank and mounting angles, and use the drill as a locating pin.

I did that and then started the alignment method. I removed the right wing tip and the right aileron tooling holes were in line with the wing rib tooling holes. Good deal, just like it was supposed to be.
Click to expand...

I don't know about your model, but on the -7, the plans explicitly state to *disregard* the tooling holes and to use the aft edge of the aileron. It may or may not make any difference, but everything you're describing sounds to me like you've got some sort of alignment issues between the 6 items: ailerons, flaps and wingtips.

The sequence is: lock bellcrank in position; adjust pushrod for aileron until the trailing edge is in line with the main wing rib tooling holes; adjust flap pushrod so that flap trailing edge aligns with aileron trailing edge whilst in the flaps up position; install wingtip and manipulate if necessary to get tip trailing edge aligned with aileron.

The ailerons are the benchmark to which everything else aligns.
 
Steve,

I'm out of town until the 20th, but I will check the plans again when I return. But I believe that the procedure in the plans for the -4 say to use the aileron tooling holes.

Like I mentined before, the left wing tip, aileron, and flap all line up, with the flap in the full up position. The right wing tip and aileron line up, but if I adjust the flap to the aileron, it appears to be down about 1/4" - 3/8" from full up position.

However, when I say full up that is relative to the fairing that the flap retracts against. The right flap may actually be close to the correct position when aligned with the aileron, and the fairing may be too high, giving the impression that the flap is too low.

This is all with the bell cranks pinned in their proper positions.

There could be some twist in the wing, twist in the flaps and/or ailerons, incorrect angle of incidence, etc. When I return I will be doing a lot more measurin and testing.

Thanks all for the help and suggestions.
 
flyenforfun said:
I also haven't flown without the trim springs. Can you fly without the trim springs? These springs make me worried that I have been fighting a problem that doesn't exist, because when I set the neutral position of the trim on my dynon, I just trimmed it til it felt like center then set that position on the dynon, the green line on the indicator to indicate center is toward the left hand quarter of the line. Hope that makes sense. For example, if I set the trim to "neutral" where it doesn't deflect my ailerons left or right on the ground my indicator looks like:

|....C....:..........|

The C is the green line indicating "neutral". When the trim position is at the C on the ground, the ailerons arent deflected by the springs.

Any thoughts at all?
Click to expand...

Yeah...remove the springs first and go fly, but then set the trim indicator properly. ASSUMING the electric trim motor was installed correctly, using accurate measurements and such, run it all the way out, mark the actuator, run it wall the way in, mark the actuator, divide by two and mark it and set it to that. THAT is centered. Then later, when you reinstall the springs, make new connections from safety wire (I'm assuming this is the same as the -7 electric trim installation) and follow the instructions.

You need to eliminate variables here, and start from a known, defined, simple baseline. No trim springs, ailerons properly rigged, etc.

Here's another one I didn't think of until just now...you may have already. After rigging one side, *lock it into position* and rig the other side. That is, don't let it "float" while you adjust both pushrods for the *other* side.

It may be too late now for simple solutions, though...looks like you've been messing with raising and lowering the aileron brackets, squeezing and "unsqueezing" trailing edges, etc. You might have so many things changing you're now "chasing ghosts".
 
Flying Scotsman said:
Yeah...remove the springs first and go fly, but then set the trim indicator properly. ASSUMING the electric trim motor was installed correctly, using accurate measurements and such, run it all the way out, mark the actuator, run it wall the way in, mark the actuator, divide by two and mark it and set it to that. THAT is centered. Then later, when you reinstall the springs, make new connections from safety wire (I'm assuming this is the same as the -7 electric trim installation) and follow the instructions.

You need to eliminate variables here, and start from a known, defined, simple baseline. No trim springs, ailerons properly rigged, etc.

Here's another one I didn't think of until just now...you may have already. After rigging one side, *lock it into position* and rig the other side. That is, don't let it "float" while you adjust both pushrods for the *other* side.

It may be too late now for simple solutions, though...looks like you've been messing with raising and lowering the aileron brackets, squeezing and "unsqueezing" trailing edges, etc. You might have so many things changing you're now "chasing ghosts".
Click to expand...

What I really need is a two new ailerons to strap on there and see what happens. Wish there was a way I could borrow some from Van's or something. I think I am so far out of wack with these ailerons that there is no way I can ever get it neutral.
 
flyenforfun said:
What I really need is a two new ailerons to strap on there and see what happens. Wish there was a way I could borrow some from Van's or something. I think I am so far out of wack with these ailerons that there is no way I can ever get it neutral.
Click to expand...

Any builders in my area who want to see their ailerons fly before their plane?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top