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  #11  
Old 07-20-2015, 08:24 PM
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Mel Mel is online now
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
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Default I agree 100%.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
I suggest you get rid of the cooling fan.
Most of the alternators used on RV's have no fan.
When used on a Lycoming, the fan on an alternator is turning the wrong way anyway so it is not really helping to cool the alternator.
This is what most people have been doing for over 20 years.
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  #12  
Old 07-20-2015, 08:27 PM
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AJ85WA AJ85WA is offline
 
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Default Same issue here

I had the same issue here in my RV6 during testing.

Shorter belt worked for me.

https://rv6aj.wordpress.com/2014/05/...difications-1/
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  #13  
Old 07-21-2015, 11:23 AM
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Default I'll get rid of the fan first

I'm going to remove the alternator fan first. I've already got a cooling tube run to the alternator and, as others said, the fan probably isn't doing much anyway. If that doesn't work, I'll decide between removing the prop / starter gear or trying a different alternator.

I measured the distance from the outside surface of the cowl to the alternator blades by putting a ruler through the hole from the outside. There's only 3/4" from the outside so inside has to be less than 1/2 inch.

The engine mounts are in good shape and bolts have just been re-torqued.

I suspect what happened is the original owner / builder replaced the alternator when he reworked the electrical system a couple of years ago. He probably had a non-fan alternator before and, without considering the clearance issues, used one with a fan this time. I know he never flew it hard after putting it back in service so the problem wasn't revealed until I got it and started flying some aggressive aerobatics.

Thanks for the help everyone!
Randy
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RV-4 N212CS (sold)
RV-8 N184RK (flying)
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Exempt and gladly donating anyway - Current through March 2021
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  #14  
Old 07-21-2015, 11:28 AM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AJ85WA View Post
I had the same issue here in my RV6 during testing.

Shorter belt worked for me.

https://rv6aj.wordpress.com/2014/05/...difications-1/
Boy does THAT look familiar!
Thanks!
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Tampa (Wimauma), Florida
RV-4 N212CS (sold)
RV-8 N184RK (flying)
Flying an A320 to pay the bills
Exempt and gladly donating anyway - Current through March 2021
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  #15  
Old 07-21-2015, 11:32 AM
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pierre smith pierre smith is offline
 
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Default No A@P

Randy, you can do all the work on your experimental without needing an A@P.

You only need one for the annual/condition inspection. You can legally remove the prop, ring gear and belt.

Best,
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  #16  
Old 07-21-2015, 01:44 PM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pierre smith View Post
Randy, you can do all the work on your experimental without needing an A@P.

You only need one for the annual/condition inspection. You can legally remove the prop, ring gear and belt.

Best,
Pierre is right.
But if it is not something you have ever done before, getting some assistance from someone with experience is a very good idea.
There are a number of things that can be done wrong if you don't know what you are doing.
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  #17  
Old 07-21-2015, 01:46 PM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pierre smith View Post
Randy, you can do all the work on your experimental without needing an A@P.

You only need one for the annual/condition inspection. You can legally remove the prop, ring gear and belt.

Best,
Thanks Pierre! You're right of course but, since I'm not a builder, I'm trying to take a go slow approach with the more complex task. My friend Vic Syracuse has already helped me accomplish several other repair and maintenance items and I was saying I'd probably rely on a more experienced person, like an A&P, if I started pulling off the prop, ring gear and belt. Enough reading on VAF though and I might be willing to give it a whirl on my own!

Great advice here. How did anybody every do all this WITHOUT VAF?
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Tampa (Wimauma), Florida
RV-4 N212CS (sold)
RV-8 N184RK (flying)
Flying an A320 to pay the bills
Exempt and gladly donating anyway - Current through March 2021
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  #18  
Old 07-23-2015, 02:06 PM
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Smile New Alternator

As I was de-cowling the airplane yesterday, still deciding what to do about the alternator interference issue, I discovered the previous owner gave me a new alternator along with the rest of the contents of his hangar. I literally was just looking around while working and saw this box up on the shelf that said, "New Alternator - No Fan." Lottery ticket kinda stuff. Cool!

So, I jumped in and, with some help from Tony Bingelis (his book(s) actually, not in person) I managed to change out the alternator.

I haven't put the cowl back on and tried it out yet but I'm sure this will solved the clearance issue.

Thanks for all the help guys!

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Tampa (Wimauma), Florida
RV-4 N212CS (sold)
RV-8 N184RK (flying)
Flying an A320 to pay the bills
Exempt and gladly donating anyway - Current through March 2021
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  #19  
Old 07-23-2015, 03:22 PM
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Default

you can remove the prop yourself, just get help putting it back on
but I guess that is a moot point now. In a few years you will be doing this stuff in your sleep. there is no rocket science involved.

check out "EAA hints for homebuilders" video series. It's free and you will learn all kinds of stuff on maintenance and setup, timing mags, changing tires, making hoses, electrical connections - you name it. That is one of the best things EAA has ever done in my humble opinion.
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  #20  
Old 07-23-2015, 05:23 PM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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Location: North Alabama
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by f14av8r View Post
As I was de-cowling the airplane yesterday, still deciding what to do about the alternator interference issue, I discovered the previous owner gave me a new alternator along with the rest of the contents of his hangar. I literally was just looking around while working and saw this box up on the shelf that said, "New Alternator - No Fan." Lottery ticket kinda stuff. Cool!

So, I jumped in and, with some help from Tony Bingelis (his book(s) actually, not in person) I managed to change out the alternator.

I haven't put the cowl back on and tried it out yet but I'm sure this will solved the clearance issue.

Thanks for all the help guys!


That looks like the 14184 ND alternator for a 1978 Honda Civic. It is a 35 amp device that has been in common use on RVs for many years. But be sure the alternator you removed was an externally regulated one because your new alternator requires a regulator.
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