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07-20-2015, 10:50 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 49
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AN507-6R6 final drill size
The plans call for a #28 drill for the AN507-6R6 screws that attach the W-822 access plates to the spar platenuts (K1000-06).
I have a #27 drill in my tool kit from Cleaveland and the cleaveland cheatsheet shows a #27 drill for fiinal size for an AN509-6 screw.
Is it OK to use the slightly larger (.1440) here in place of the #28 (.1405)?
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Mike Whaley #83456
Anaheim Hills, CA
RV-8 slow build
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07-20-2015, 11:44 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,931
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Drill
I wouldn't. Go to a hardware store and buy one. Better yet, buy some reamers.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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07-20-2015, 02:44 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 49
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I went to my local Ace HW. They had numbered bits, but were out of the #28 of course. Thankfully Aircraft Spruce is only 20 minutes away. They had them.
Never tried a reamer. Sounds complicated. 
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Mike Whaley #83456
Anaheim Hills, CA
RV-8 slow build
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07-20-2015, 03:52 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyBoy8
I went to my local Ace HW. They had numbered bits, but were out of the #28 of course. Thankfully Aircraft Spruce is only 20 minutes away. They had them.
Never tried a reamer. Sounds complicated. |
Reamers are basically precise bits. The flutes run along the shaft. Since there's several cutting edges, they make perfectly round holes exactly to dimension.
Most standard drill bits make a triangular shaped hole slightly bigger than spec. I drill a size under and run a reamer through for all holes if possible.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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07-20-2015, 04:53 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,690
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyBoy8
The plans call for a #28 drill for the AN507-6R6 screws that attach the W-822 access plates to the spar platenuts (K1000-06).
I have a #27 drill in my tool kit from Cleaveland and the cleaveland cheatsheet shows a #27 drill for fiinal size for an AN509-6 screw.
Is it OK to use the slightly larger (.1440) here in place of the #28 (.1405)?
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YES!! Use it!!
There is no way that 0.0035" larger diameter on the body clearance diameter for a flat head screw is going to make your plane fall out of the air.
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Bill Pendergrass
ME/AE '82
RV-7A: Flying since April 15, 2012. 850 hrs
YIO-360-M1B, mags, CS, GRT EX and WS H1s & A/P, Navworx
Unpainted, polished....kinda'... Eyeballin' vinyl really hard.
Yeah. The boss got a Silhouette Cameo 4 Xmas 2019.
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07-20-2015, 05:06 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Richmond Hill, GA (KLHW)
Posts: 2,183
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For a panel cover, I would not sweat it but you'll need the #28 again and why not use the right size, if you don't live in the middle of Alaska where it takes dog sleds to get tools. 
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Ray
RV-7A - Slider - N495KL - First flt 27 Jan 17
O-360-A4M w/ AFP FM-150 FI, Dual PMags, Vetterman Trombone Exh, SkyTech starter, BandC Alt (PP failed after 226 hrs)
Catto 3 blade NLE, FlightLines Interior, James cowl, plenum & intake, Anti-Splat -14 seat mod and nose gear support
All lines by TSFlightLines (aka Hoser)
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07-20-2015, 05:20 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Bettendorf, IA
Posts: 140
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In case you wanted to see it written twice: #27 work just fine. That's all I used for mine. I also pulled out my RV8 manual and no where does it mention the need for #28 drill, but does have # 27 drill referenced as required and many 6 screws used.
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Charlie Hammes
RV-8, N525RV Flying
RV-8, N208CH in process
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07-20-2015, 09:40 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: X35 - Ocala, FL
Posts: 3,679
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I always use a #27 bit for a 6-32 screw.
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Jesse Saint
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07-21-2015, 05:58 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,514
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Yep, Like the pros said - - #28 is perfect for one hole that will be threaded, but when there are many, it often takes a #27 to allow all the screws to insert and start nicely. If you were using a structural screw without threads at the shear area (like and AN bolt) then yes, maybe it would make a difference, but the vast majority of screws we use have threads to the base, i.e. not using the shear loads anyway.
Now you can use your judgement.
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Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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