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  #11  
Old 07-13-2015, 04:07 PM
dvalle dvalle is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 161
Default Sikaflex

In looking to buy Sikaflex, I find different types. Can someone be specific on which Sikoflex? Thanks
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  #12  
Old 07-13-2015, 04:21 PM
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tadsargent tadsargent is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
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Sikaflex 295 UV
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  #13  
Old 07-13-2015, 10:53 PM
SHIPCHIEF SHIPCHIEF is offline
 
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Location: Seattle
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SIKAFLEX UV295 comes in Black & White. Black is preferred. I accidentally bought some white, so I have both. I guess I'm a test case now.
I've been flying 2 years, still don't have the fiberglass around the windshield.
SIKA Is great, but it weighs a little more & is expensive.
I have a 1" crack (stop drilled) from the hole for the latch. The canopy shifted when I 'final' assembled it. Bummer.
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RV-8 N89SE first flight 12/26/2013
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  #14  
Old 07-15-2015, 09:48 PM
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pfactor pfactor is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Western NC
Posts: 113
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Yes ... 295UV
+ cleaner and primer..
see here..
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...nsairforce.com

I ended up buying for canopy.. but was already drilled, so I riveted. Planning on sika'ing the windscreen because mine like scsmith didn't line up with the canopy and needs to come up.. but is a larger gap.. maybe a 1/4"..

merrittsupply.com had good prices quick shipping ( no affiliation)


I will probably have some left over especially primer 206 and cleaner.. so if someone close by .. West NC../ N. Georgia needs some.. let me know.
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  #15  
Old 08-21-2015, 09:42 AM
dvalle dvalle is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 161
Default Aktivator Rimper, Sikaflex 295UV

All you Siki guys:-). Wow, what a challenge, did you use Aktivator & Primer 209D? I am so confused over this product. I bought the Aktivator 100, primer 209D and Sikaflex 295UV. Aktivator says 10 minutes to 2 hours, primer says nothing, 295UV says tack fee 1 hour, 5-8 days cure. How the heck do I do this? Spacers, tack, then full, how do you handle with all the "times" involved. Also, I have a call into Sika Corp, no returned call yet.....
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  #16  
Old 08-21-2015, 12:31 PM
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mike newall mike newall is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Yorkshire, England
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dvalle,

Don't Panic !

Having done a 7 tip up and an 8 slider, there are no real problems, but your prep must be meticulous and you really need help when doing it.

1. The whole canopy must fit - well !
2. Test fit with ratchet straps ($15 Home Despot ones are fine) to make sure it doesn't bulge anywhere when you put pressure on - you don't need much btw, just enough to make it all fit - the Sika does the rest. Make sure you have target reference points on the structure and the canopy - you will place this once and once only !
3. Mask where you want the primer and scruff up the canopy with red Scotch so it is completely opaque. Scuff the structure as well and mask accordingly.
4. Spacers - some do, some don't. We didn't and have had no issues. The spacers ensure an 1/8th bed, if you pipe correctly and don't apply too much pressure, that is what you end up with.
5. Get ready......
6. Practise the place and settle down onto the structure.
7. Figure out how to cut the end of the nozzle to create a triangular fillet - it isn't difficult and you may need to practise on a spare silicone tube but you can pipe a very nice triangular fillet.
8. No coffee. Don't want any caffeine shakes for the next bit.
9. Nearly ready.
10. Clean all surfaces - you can use their product or good panel wipe, very similar.
11. Now you become time restricted as you are about to start. Brush on the primer - it is the only thing the Sika will stick to. It flashes off very quickly - dries almost instantly. You have a couple of hours now or else you need to re prime. Prime both surfaces.
12. Get piping the adhesive on - just onto structure, just where it will touch.
14. Set the canopy down carefully, don't wiggle it, don't squeeze too hard.
15. Set your straps and make sure your fit is OK.
16. Now using a standard end nozzle, pipe a fillet on both sides of the structure in one fluid movement.
17. Using a tongue depressor of a suitable radius (insert this bit into step 2) dress the fillet again in one smooth movement. Your masking should be lined up with the edge of where your fillet will end and no more.
18. Go for a well earned beer and do not, I repeat DO NOT fiddle with anything.

After a couple of hours, it will have taken a first set and you can gently start to remove masking and using a sharpened popsicle stick with rounded corners, start scrape away the excess Sika that will not adhere to structure unless it is on primer.

Leave for a day or so and bingo - perfect canopy !


To the others - if I have missed a step, or if you wish to alter slightly, chime in please, that is how we did ours and got perfect fillets and edges on both.

Good luck !
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  #17  
Old 08-21-2015, 07:56 PM
dvalle dvalle is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 161
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Thanks for the great reply...and not to panic:-)....I do have a question. I was told to use all three (mentioned previously). You stated clean all surfaces, use their product? Would that be the Aktivator (for cleaning)? If so, what the heck is so important about using it "in one direction" per the instructions? 10 minutes to 2 hours?

You also state only a couple hours on the primer? The primer can is the only thing that has no directions.

FYI-Sika Technical Support never called me....
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  #18  
Old 08-21-2015, 08:30 PM
engineerorange engineerorange is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Catawba, NC
Posts: 193
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I am in the Hickory area and will be gluing my canopy before cold weather so Inwould be interested in any leftovers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pfactor View Post
Yes ... 295UV
+ cleaner and primer..
see here..
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...nsairforce.com

I ended up buying for canopy.. but was already drilled, so I riveted. Planning on sika'ing the windscreen because mine like scsmith didn't line up with the canopy and needs to come up.. but is a larger gap.. maybe a 1/4"..

merrittsupply.com had good prices quick shipping ( no affiliation)


I will probably have some left over especially primer 206 and cleaner.. so if someone close by .. West NC../ N. Georgia needs some.. let me know.
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  #19  
Old 08-21-2015, 08:38 PM
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mike newall mike newall is offline
 
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Location: Yorkshire, England
Posts: 2,052
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They want to sell their cleaner/aktivator.

You need a good clean substrate for the primer to adhere to, that is all and it is the same as any primer prep.

The primer is strange stuff, it bonds with the Sika adhesive, but it has a defined time, around 24 hours I believe, longer than the 2 hours I stated.

Have a look here - this is good.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...chmentid=29490...
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Last edited by mike newall : 08-21-2015 at 08:41 PM.
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  #20  
Old 08-21-2015, 11:30 PM
SHIPCHIEF SHIPCHIEF is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,412
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I used short peices of slit garden hose for spacers around the canopy, and caulked the canopy to the frame. I left gaps around the spacers. When the SIKA had set up, I removed the spacers and SIKA'd the gaps. It was a few days later, but the bond seems good where I filled these spacer gaps.
Install a shim around the canopy latch hole, that was my only serious mistake. I ended up with Plexiglass to steel contact, and a small crack developed, which I stop drilled.
I had better luck removing the masking (electrical) tape as soon as possible. SIKA starts to set up on the outside (skin over) quickly.
This was particularly important when I installed the skirts, because you have to put the SIKA on the canopy,then install the skirt over it and press it on until the SIKA squeezes out. I did drill a few holes thru the skirt & frame, then used clecos to pull the skirts down and hold them in position.
The SIKA that squeezes out ends up on the masking tape. Peel this off right away to get a perfect edge seam.
Go back inside and use the caulking gun to filet the canopy frame tubes to the skirt. I used a few temporary shims to hold some areas out. That helped maintain the desired shape until the SIKA set in a few days.
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Scott Emery
http://gallery.eaa326.org/v/members/semery/
EAA 668340, chapter 326 & IAC chapter 67
RV-8 N89SE first flight 12/26/2013
Yak55M, and the wife has an RV-4
There is nothing-absolute nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing around with Aeroplanes
(with apologies to Ratty)
2019
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