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  #31  
Old 06-15-2015, 09:26 AM
Ron B. Ron B. is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaveric View Post
I am going to stop using the syringes now and use measuring cups, just need to find a clean way of getting paint from the tin into the cup

Anyone got any tips on transferring paint from a tin to the cup without pouring it down the sides of the tin (obviously not using a syringe lol).
Do like I did, steal your wife's soup scooper (big deep spoon). You just have to clean the spoon after each use but less mess than pouring out of a gallon can.
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  #32  
Old 06-15-2015, 10:49 AM
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madmaveric madmaveric is offline
 
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I had the same experience with my first metallic paint job (a long time ago using cellulose) I sanded the masking lip between the colours before I clear coated ... ended up starting again

Soup spoon sounds good with the added bonus that there isn't a wife to complain ... mind you I also don't have a soup spoon so will need to buy one. Maybe there is a link there somewhere, does the spoon normally come with a wife (or visa versa)
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  #33  
Old 06-15-2015, 08:54 PM
RepmikeBrown RepmikeBrown is offline
 
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Looks like you need to drain your tank of moisture, put on a good dryer. Your spraying a little heavy, causing the orange peel effect. Sand and put a lighter wet coat, clear coat and you should be good to go. Don't give up
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  #34  
Old 06-15-2015, 10:38 PM
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JordanGrant JordanGrant is offline
 
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Default Syringes - ha! Nailed it!

If you were using standard syringes, then there's your problem. I suspect your next round of paint will be MUCH better. After a little learning curve, I really don't think painting is all that cosmic. It's just a whole lot of work, and you have to be very, very clean! And that means clean air, too, so you don't get dust.
If you really want a super nice paint job, plan on cutting and polishing at the end. There really is no other way to get the "perfect" looking paint job, I think. After having painted my plane as an amateur, I now scoff at paint jobs on very expensive cars that quite often have a fair amount of orange peel - I know what it's supposed to look like now!

After my syringe debacle, I bought some "paint can pouring lids", i.e. these things:
http://www.amazon.com/Spill-Painting.../dp/B005T3JQAI

You can reseal the paint cans by just screwing the lids back on. The plastic they are made of did not contaminate my paint (however, I did not use the exact brand in the link, so YMMV). You can re-use them when you use switch to a new gallon of paint (just clean them off with acetone or thinner). I had some paint left over and stored it for YEARS with these things still on top, well past the "shelf life" of the paint. It worked just fine after I pulled them out again. I highly recommend.

My advice - keep painting! I can't tell you how much more pride my wife and I have in our machine since we did the painting ourselves. We also learned lot and used that knowledge on other projects (car repair, painted a steel toolbox, etc).

Good luck!
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  #35  
Old 06-16-2015, 03:01 AM
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madmaveric madmaveric is offline
 
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I would have just sanded and cut the panel if it wasn't for the solvent pop (or maybe this is also caused by silicone). It only took an hour or two to strip it back to bare ally.

I have now thrown out the syringes and have mixing cups and sticks. I popped into the paint shop and they confirmed that the base DOESN'T need hardener, it is only mixed using 2:1 with thinner so I can rule that out as an issue.
I picked up some new gun cleaner (thinner) in case the acetone is causing issues.

I should also have brought all new paint/clear/hardener etc. but it didn't occur to me until I got home that all the paint I have will also be contaminated (due to putting the excess back in the tin from the syringe).

I like those lids, I will have to see what size tins I get the paint in and buy some to match.

This week I will be fitting more lighting (to help see how thick the paint is going on) and sealing the roof with wood (from the empennage box) and plastic sheeting as currently it is all beams and old chipboard. My shed is the paint booth so I need to line it much better.

I also need to make some space prior to the wing kit arriving sometime near the end of this month and this seems like a good time to do it. So a tidy up/re-org is in order.

I will then pick up some more paint and try again. and hopefully this time I can get closer to a finish I want.
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  #36  
Old 06-26-2015, 02:03 PM
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madmaveric madmaveric is offline
 
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Well I have to say thanks to everyone
It looks like I have solved the mains issues, I still have some smaller ones to sort out but at least I'm at a point where I wouldn't be upset at the amateur paint job

After switching out the syringes and getting new paint I tried again. I also brought a new paint gun to help out. The results were much better.
I need to remember to use a clean table cloth (vans packing paper ) but apart from that I'm happy with the first attempt enough to go ahead with trying the rest.
I'm not expecting it to be perfect but as long as it reasonable I will be happy (saving about £7000/$11000 for a paint job means it wont take much to be happy with it ).
The big question now is weather I can upscale the finish to the bigger parts, this one is quite small an easy to do.
Note: these were taken about 20 minutes after painting so I still have my fingers crossed it doesn't react as it dries.
It has one small run on one edge (I'm happy with only one as I'm still learning how thick to put it on).
There is also some dust on one side which I think came off the table (hopefully that will buff out and a cleaner table will help next time) but all in I'm happy with it so far.






P.S. I have deliberately left the pictures large (well I reduced them to 25% of original) so you can see the finish

Last edited by madmaveric : 07-08-2019 at 01:06 AM.
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  #37  
Old 06-27-2015, 06:12 AM
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JanRV6UK JanRV6UK is offline
 
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That is looking good ;-) ..
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  #38  
Old 07-02-2015, 06:19 PM
Kent Ashton Kent Ashton is offline
 
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Location: Concord, NC
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I usually measure paint components with notches on a paint stick. Say the ratios are 8 parts paint, 2 parts reducer, 1 part hardener. That's 11 parts so if I want 4 inches of paint in the cup, 4 divided by 11 = .36" per part so I cut notches at 2.9", .72", and .36".

That works pretty well and the mess is minimal. Be sure to mix in a straight-sided cup or can. :-)
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  #39  
Old 07-02-2015, 10:31 PM
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JordanGrant JordanGrant is offline
 
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Nice work! Looks great!
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  #40  
Old 07-03-2015, 06:52 AM
sblack sblack is offline
 
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That flowed out really nice.
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