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  #31  
Old 01-30-2014, 04:07 PM
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MartySantic MartySantic is offline
 
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I would also be interested in the same "fish mouth" photo.
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  #32  
Old 01-30-2014, 06:11 PM
Dave12 Dave12 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill_H View Post
John - great pics, I may do this. My cowl is painted. How did it look into the fishmouth when you were done before any touchup?

Also a pic of your revised hose routing please!
Bill, I did not have to touch my hoses at all.
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  #33  
Old 02-10-2014, 10:50 AM
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Jetguy Jetguy is offline
 
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Location: Texas, Fort Worth
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I'm all done with my cowl mod. Things a learned along the way. You don't want to arch the top part of the tunnel when you reattach the part where the oil cooler attaches as seen in the first pic. I has to go back and redo that area. I had to cut out that area and reglass it with a dip in it as seen in the second pic. There is a point where you can't go any farther forward with out hitting the bottom of the engine because of height of the square frame where the cooler attaches. In the third picture you can compare pics from my earlier post and see now I have about 1 1/2 inches between the cooler and muffler. Before I had about 3/4 inch, use the spring attach point as a reference to compare. The forth pic shows the final product. After I fly it for a while I'll go back and do the cosmetic work and then repaint the inside of the tunnel. I won't know for sure how well it works until the summer kicks end. I'll update when that happens.



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RV12 N1212K
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  #34  
Old 02-10-2014, 02:07 PM
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engineerofsorts engineerofsorts is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 306
Default Looking down the throat, seems to be...

a recent tonsillectomy.

Question: you are removing a 1-inch strip, and basically sliding the remainder forward an inch. By forward, I suspect this means "up a bit" also, hence the interference? Sliding it up, do the two edges basically match up on the same level, or is there a step in the glass at that point to join things back together--looks like it is perdy smooth, at least on the top, but a step discontinuity on both of the sides.

NIce thing about this mod is that its just fiberglass--don't have to deal with the pro-seal/devil's snot on this one--will reserve my aggravation for the tank SB .


Our machine seems to start out with less clearance--< 1/2", and I don't think we hit any red lines during last summer, but will still be doing the mod.
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  #35  
Old 02-10-2014, 03:21 PM
Dave12 Dave12 is offline
 
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Looks good John. Are you going to leave the insulation on the muffler?
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Wag Aero Sport Trainer built,sold and wrecked
N588DF RV12 #336 built, sold and alive and well in New York
N73DF RV12 #244 built, sold and alive and well in Florida
N91 RV RV9 I wish I could say I built this one! Mark Santoleri hit the ball out of the park on this gem.
Currently restoring a 1978 Citabria GCBC

Last edited by Dave12 : 02-10-2014 at 03:44 PM.
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  #36  
Old 02-10-2014, 04:10 PM
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Jetguy Jetguy is offline
 
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Quote:
Question: you are removing a 1-inch strip, and basically sliding the remainder forward an inch. By forward, I suspect this means "up a bit" also, hence the interference? Sliding it up, do the two edges basically match up on the same level, or is there a step in the glass at that point to join things back together--looks like it is perdy smooth, at least on the top, but a step discontinuity on both of the sides.

Our machine seems to start out with less clearance--< 1/2", and I don't think we hit any red lines during last summer, but will still be doing the mod.
Yes that is what I did, cut out a 1inch strip and move it forward 1inch. No, the oil coolers frame won't line up perfectly. Just get it close then glass it in place. You might want to wait through the summer and see how yours does. Here are some pics after my final install of the oil pump for reference. You need at least 1/4inch clearance between the the oil pump and the cowl.
If this cowl mod works out ok Ill take the header wrap off. I didn't really see any cooler temps when using it.

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RV12 N1212K
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1020 Hours as of 9/30/2017
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RV14 Wing, arrived and building at Rdog's new Hanger at 16X
S/N 140014
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  #37  
Old 06-12-2015, 05:36 PM
rgmwa rgmwa is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 1,647
Default Muffler relocated

Looks like Vans have increased the muffler to oil cooler clearance in the current kits by moving the muffler further back.

http://vansaircraft.com/pdf/revision...Section_48.pdf
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  #38  
Old 06-13-2015, 02:40 PM
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Paris12Man Paris12Man is offline
 
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Location: Paris, TX
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I would prefer to buy new cylinder exhaust pipes which are shaped differently or longer to move the muffler back than all the fiberglass work required mentioned in the above posts. Oh I forgot to mention I hate to fiberglass! With the NEW cylinder exhaust pipes, I guess a new exit hole would need to be made in the lower cowling......just can't get away from fiberglassing and repainting.
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  #39  
Old 06-13-2015, 04:48 PM
rgmwa rgmwa is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paris12Man View Post
With the NEW cylinder exhaust pipes, I guess a new exit hole would need to be made in the lower cowling......
Maybe not. Looking at the plans, the exhaust pipe seems to exit a little more vertically than before. Worth checking with Vans anyway. If so, it would (could?) be a simple alternative to modifying the cowl.
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Last edited by rgmwa : 06-13-2015 at 05:17 PM.
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  #40  
Old 06-13-2015, 05:00 PM
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Rick_A Rick_A is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Highland Village, TX
Posts: 1,519
Default Cost to Replace?

I wonder how much it would cost to purchase the new system. It does look like you would have to get all 4 pipes and the muffler.

The new EX-000xx part numbers are not on "The List" yet.

I haven't even started my engine yet.
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