Baffle tension rods.

[AAflyer]

Van's baffling kit includes some stock steel rod, that I carefully cut to length, and bent to shape, only to find it impossible to thread the ends with my tap and die set.
Can anyone talk me out of using the nice threaded rod available at the hardware store? Zinc-coated steel. Bends easier, so I know it's not as hard, but rated for 200# Safe Working Load. Seems to good to be true at $0.80 each.

[cjhammes]

Maybe you could avoid using rods altogether. Old schoolers use simple safety wire. No bending or threading required. I'm sure there is a thread somewhere on this alternative.

[ccsmith51]

I just installed new Van's baffles on my 2000 RV-6. The old ones were secured with safety wire and I did the same with the new set.

My RV-4 also had the baffles secured with safety wire.

YMMV,

[Mark Dickens]

Originally Posted by cjhammes

Maybe you could avoid using rods altogether. Old schoolers use simple safety wire. No bending or threading required. I'm sure there is a thread somewhere on this alternative.

Yep, Andy Karmy did it that way. Since I couldn't directly link to his photo on flickr, I grabbed a screen capture (with apologies to Andy):

[mikehoover]

I had the same problem trying to thread the SS rod so I did what a lot of folks did with the safety wire. The picture below shows the safety wire with some plastic tubing to protect against chaffing. A word of caution, though. I have seen a fellow RV'er's set up like mine and the plastic tubing that is in contact with the aluminum return tubing can actually cause a scallop in the aluminum tubing over time. I believe he had around 750+ hours on that set up when he noticed it. I think the SS rod is a much better solution. As soon as I get a hold of a capable die set, I'll change out to SS rods during an annual or other down time.

[jrs14855]

Bare mild steel rod is easily threaded and two doglegs per rod provide clearance for the drain tubes. The rods can be painted except for the threaded portion or cad plated including the threads.
A machine shop can thread stainless if its the correct grade. It must be a relatively soft stainless.

[DanH]

Don't tie the front and rear cylinders together. Instead wire each to the center baffle plate. Short wire length, and they don't cross any drain tubes.

[BillL]

[RV7A Flyer]

Don't do this:

http://www.vansairforce.net/_WWWTP/5.htm

[DeltaFox]

I didn't have much problem threading the rod with my cheap die set from HD. Just used some cutting oil and worked back and forth a lot.



As others have mentioned, safety wire works as well, just make sure it's not going to saw through anything.