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  #1  
Old 05-28-2015, 08:35 AM
cjlindauer cjlindauer is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: New Athens, IL
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Default Elongated Hole - Top of Wing

Well I had to drill out an LP4-3 rivet on the top outboard skin of my right wing the other day and totally messed it up. See the image below.



I have a N RIVET BSPQ-5-2 (5/32 pop rivet) left over from applying the RV-12 Wing Doubler Install Kit (SERVICE BULLETIN 14-11-03). That looks like it would cover this error.

Can I use this or are there any other recommendations for how to address this error?

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 05-28-2015, 11:51 AM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
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Chris,

If you are building ELSA the repair method needs to be approved by Vans. If you are building EAB the call is yours. Going to a larger diameter fastener is a pretty standard repair.

Rich
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  #3  
Old 05-28-2015, 12:12 PM
BigJohn BigJohn is offline
 
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From eyeballing the picture this looks like a bigger hole than 5/32. Better measure hole and call Vans for advice.
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  #4  
Old 05-28-2015, 12:45 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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When removing LP4 or CS4 blind rivets, always drive the steel mandrel out of the center using a 1/16" pin punch before drilling. This will help avoid the drill bit wondering off to one side.
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  #5  
Old 05-28-2015, 01:52 PM
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joedallas joedallas is offline
 
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Location: Spring Hill Fl
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Default #13 Drill

After Driving out the steel mandrel drill the rivet out with a # 31 Drill and there should be no damage to the Skins.

Joe D
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Last edited by joedallas : 05-28-2015 at 04:49 PM. Reason: Driving Not Drilling
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  #6  
Old 05-28-2015, 03:19 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joedallas View Post
After drilling out the steel mandrel drill the rivet out with a # 31 Drill and there should be no damage to the Skins.

Joe D
I think Joe probably meant to say driving out, not drilling out.
In a pinch, a 1/8" bit works instead of a #31.
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  #7  
Old 05-28-2015, 04:54 PM
waterboy2110 waterboy2110 is offline
 
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Location: SF Bay Area
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FWIW I use the rivet removal tool from ATS on both pulled and bucked rivets and highly recommend it. Removed the entire forward lower skins without any issues. I don't attempt to drill out pulled rivets. Just drill off the head and use a small set of snips to wiggle it out from behind or use an autopunch to pop it out if you can't get to it. Never found a reason to go after the mandrel.

For bucked rivets finding the center is the key and I'll generally use one or two pilot holes to make sure I'm finding center. Also drilling a small pilot hole relives the stress on the rivet and allows it to come out easily.
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  #8  
Old 05-28-2015, 05:40 PM
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joedallas joedallas is offline
 
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Location: Spring Hill Fl
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Default JB Weld

What if you fill the hole with JB weld, Let it get hard and re drill the hole
Then take the new rivet and coat it with JB weld and install it
I used this on striped thread in a aluminum motor block then drilled and taped it, it worked fine
Where is this located on the wing. do you have a photo with a larger view





Quote:
Originally Posted by cjlindauer View Post
Well I had to drill out an LP4-3 rivet on the top outboard skin of my right wing the other day and totally messed it up. See the image below.


I have a N RIVET BSPQ-5-2 (5/32 pop rivet) left over from applying the RV-12 Wing Doubler Install Kit (SERVICE BULLETIN 14-11-03). That looks like it would cover this error.

Can I use this or are there any other recommendations for how to address this error?

Thanks.
__________________
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Kit-#12400
www.joesrv12.com
www.EAA1298.com
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