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05-20-2015, 07:38 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Washington, D.C.
Posts: 37
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Compressor Piping
Two sentence background before I ask my question: aside from minimal maintenance on my motorcycle and a pinewood derby car back in Cub Scouts, I have never built much of anything except Ikea furniture so simple questions are about to follow.
I picked up a 60 gallon 5 hp air compressor, Particulate Filter, Coalescing Filter, and Air Regulator; all are 1/2 inch NPT. This is where I get a little stuck; how do I connect it all?
What I was thinking: 1/2 inch by 6 foot 300 PSI lead in rubber air hose to go from the compressor to the first filter and then 1/2 inch NPT male pipe hex nipple to connect the two filters and then the regulator. Then some kind of brass hex reducing bushing to go from 1/2 inch to 3/8 inch? To that I could attach air hoses that lead to the tools.
__________________
Jim Anderson
RV-7: #74811
N54WW
Way I remember it, albatross was a ship's good luck, 'til some idiot killed it.
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05-20-2015, 08:15 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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Good Job!
It looks like you have the bases covered. The bushing might need to be 1/2 X 1/4 as most hoses are 1/4 NPT ends. You might consider a quick connect at the pressure regulator exit, and a ball valve back at the tank going into the connector hose. Also, a friend got a small manifold, several compact quick couplers, and 10' (or so) super flexible hose for each of his tools. The manifold attached to his work bench. It is more useful than mine
Edit: You might want to put the compressor 20' away from the work area to save your hearing.
I think this is the kit my friend has. Easily mounted to the bench.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
Last edited by BillL : 05-21-2015 at 06:26 AM.
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05-20-2015, 08:38 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Prescott Valley/Chandler AZ
Posts: 351
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Other concerns
You have plenty of compressor for the jobs at hand. Most of the tools will lightly tax your system. The cut-off wheel being the major exception. Like BillR said, the most common air hose is 1/4 at the tool end. Also mentioned is the 10' super flexible hose. I had one of these on my bench:
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Lightw.../#.VV1Dt0ZgchM
A couple of light weight hoses would have been even better.
__________________
John Morgensen
RV-9A N946PM 600+ hours since 2013
Nevada/Arizona
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05-21-2015, 10:05 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Washington, D.C.
Posts: 37
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Perfect! Thanks for the advice/help. I wish I could put the compressor 20+ feet away but unfortunately putting it outside is out of the question. I left the hose coming off the regulator at 3/8" and I'll attach a manifold to the workbench then use 1/4" hoses off of that.
I couldn't find a quick connect in 3/8" that I liked; do you have a link where I should look? Any idea if the connectors from the manifold block kit are quick connect or not?
__________________
Jim Anderson
RV-7: #74811
N54WW
Way I remember it, albatross was a ship's good luck, 'til some idiot killed it.
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05-22-2015, 02:58 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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I like the Milton M style couplers. Here is a Milton catalogue.
Look closely at the cleaveland link, yes the couplers are mini quick connect.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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05-22-2015, 05:18 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Washington, D.C.
Posts: 37
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Thanks! They looked like it but always nice to ask someone who has seen them in person.
__________________
Jim Anderson
RV-7: #74811
N54WW
Way I remember it, albatross was a ship's good luck, 'til some idiot killed it.
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11-06-2015, 06:55 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Lake in the Hills, IL
Posts: 175
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How did you connect everything?
I'm in the same boat. I've got my compressor and filter/regulator and a 6' 1/2" whip to go between them. Should have got a shorter whip, but it will do. I picked up a 3/8" hose reel and a short whip to connect to it to my copper line.
My question is how did you connect everything and still be able to take out a component? The fittings don't rotate on the hose. I connected the whip to the compressor. Next is to connect the whip to the regulator. I can connect that and rotate the regulator as I tighten it. When it's tight I can slip it into it's mounting bracket. What about the other side? My plan was to connect to a copper fitting that I have already sweated to a length of pipe. That way I'm not sweating pipe next to the regulator. Then I can continue sweating pipe as I go.
What happens if I need to change the regulator? Serviceability? The way it looks now, I would have to cut the pipe on the downward side and work my way back and then sweat it back in. Are there quick disconnects for compressed air like on my natural gas fittings to my furnace and hot water heater? What did everyone else do? Should I just connect it all and not worry about it?
I was looking at the rapidair 1/2" so I could run from my garage to my basement. It doesn't look too sturdy and I'm wondering if it would leak, especially over time. The 3/4" looks better, but when I add everything up I think I can do copper for slightly less, although I think I could replace things easier with rapidair.
First timer, but trying to think ahead.
Regards,
Jeff
__________________
Jeff Dingbaum
RV-14A empennage, wings, fuselage
Cherokee 180
2020 dues paid
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11-06-2015, 08:01 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,435
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2 Regulators
I used black iron pipe and made a manifold with 2 regulators. One is set to 30 - 40 psi for the rivet gun, and the other is set to 90 psi for everything else. The 2 flexible air hoses are different colors and the regulators have quick disconnect fittings.
Dave
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11-06-2015, 08:54 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Lucerne,Ca
Posts: 272
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Harbor Freight
Check out Harbor Freight as they Have most of what you might need. I have a 3in1 at the compressor and have the compressor outside in a storage shed to keep the noise level down. The 3 light weight manifold is so nice to use, wouldn't be w/o it.
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11-06-2015, 11:38 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coffeeguy
I'm in the same boat. I've got my compressor and filter/regulator and a 6' 1/2" whip to go between them. Should have got a shorter whip, but it will do. I picked up a 3/8" hose reel and a short whip to connect to it to my copper line.
My question is how did you connect everything and still be able to take out a component? The fittings don't rotate on the hose. I connected the whip to the compressor. Next is to connect the whip to the regulator. I can connect that and rotate the regulator as I tighten it. When it's tight I can slip it into it's mounting bracket. What about the other side? My plan was to connect to a copper fitting that I have already sweated to a length of pipe. That way I'm not sweating pipe next to the regulator. Then I can continue sweating pipe as I go.
What happens if I need to change the regulator? Serviceability? The way it looks now, I would have to cut the pipe on the downward side and work my way back and then sweat it back in. Are there quick disconnects for compressed air like on my natural gas fittings to my furnace and hot water heater? What did everyone else do? Should I just connect it all and not worry about it?
I was looking at the rapidair 1/2" so I could run from my garage to my basement. It doesn't look too sturdy and I'm wondering if it would leak, especially over time. The 3/4" looks better, but when I add everything up I think I can do copper for slightly less, although I think I could replace things easier with rapidair.
First timer, but trying to think ahead.
Regards,
Jeff
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I used black iron pipe (1/2") for my distribution 20+ yrs ago and now it spits small rust particles. I like your options of rapidair or copper. 3/4" actual i.d. It will last a long time and remain clean. Look at solder selection, though, I would not use standard plumbing solder.
I went to an on-highway truck shop and got a 4' whip made of truck air hose with 37 deg flare fittings, that makes good break point. Today, I think they use a lot of solid nylon hose. Truck hardware is tough, reliable, and cheap. Use what they have in your area.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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