Need some advice on these rivets

[WVM]

Hi,

The inspector from the aviation authorities accepted the rivets based on the comment from VANS that it would probably do more damage by drilling them out and replacing the ribs. But also because that location remains accessible and will be yearly inspected by them. I am still not sure that I will keep them in or not. I did not rivet the main rib to the skin yet. And the rear spar is also not yet in. I only would drill it out when I am sure that I found a better method to rivet them in place. I am going to put it aside for a while.

Thanks

[jbtierney]

www.theyardstore.com > Rivet Accessories / Rivet Set Caps. these are plastic caps you put on your rivet sets and will help reduce this kind of damage.

[WVM]

Originally Posted by WVM

Hi,
...



...

Hi,

You might remember this post... I drilled those out today after reading this comment on the forum about drilling out rivets or not.

The second reason I did is because I noticed that my new yoke is able to reach all those rivets.

I have an issue after drilling them out. As I used a smaller drill size, I have some remains of the rivet in most of the holes. They don't want to come out as the outside part is larger than the rivet hole (on both sides). The most logical idea was to use a pliers, but this fails. Another idea was to drill them out, but as the remains are not evenly around the hole, they tend to swirl around rather than drilling away and chances are there that the drill will damage the hole as it is not perfectly aligned with it.







Any advise?

[SeanB]

Just get a small nail punch and a light hammer to tap the edge of the rivet (inward toward the hole) in a few places. You can then give them a tap to drive them through the hole. Doesn't take much force. Avoid the spar and other parts with the punch.

[BillL]

Drilling too deep with a small bit and leaving the shell is a lesson learned. Like said, take a proper size punch and knock them out. If you end up with some discarded parts, practice rivet removal on them. You will get there, and be able to use a standard bit and make it work.

Rivet removal is mostly technique, not skill. You have to be able to see a human hair down there so good eyesight, cheaters, or optivisor should be used. I drill the head in several steps, a few revolutions per step. If the hole is not in the center, then walk it. Take a bunch of universal head rivets and learn to walk your drill point. This will keep it in the center. Using an angle drill is a whole other skill set!

For a long time I could not drive a universal head rivet without a smilie to save my life - not one. Set out research program of variables and now it is easier. Offsets, arrrrggghh.

Happy building.

[N941WR]

Next time put some duct tape over the end of the rivet set. It helps keep the set from jumping off the rivet and reduces the chance of damaging things like what happened to you.

FWIW, I agree with Van's.

[JonJay]

For the occasional universal head removal, the procedure Bill describes of "walking" the drill bit works. This also works for flush heads.
However, if you have a lot of them to remove, or want a more fool proof method, buy this tool;
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...vetremoval.php

In my restoration work, I have had the occasion to remove literally thousands of rivets. When properly set up, this tool allows you to move quickly and safely. At one point in time, I was removing on average over ten rivets per minute. I burned through several drill bits.

Even if you don't have hundreds to remove, this tool makes clean work of it, and we all need an excuse to have one more tool right?

[Marc Bourget]

Originally Posted by SeanB

Just get a small nail punch and a light hammer to tap the edge of the rivet (inward toward the hole) in a few places. You can then give them a tap to drive them through the hole. Doesn't take much force. Avoid the spar and other parts with the punch.

You could consider grinding a special punch, kinda like a prow on a boat, to collapse the "tube"

I try to avoid "drilling through" I'll use a standard size drill to get close to the junction between the rivet head and barrel. The head can be removed mechanically, either by putting a punch in the hole and wiggling, or shearing off (470s) with a drift or other punch. You can "punch through as stated above, but I sometimes "draw" the barrel out of the hole by drilling the barrel (not through drill) with a smaller drill. After which I use fine punches I made up on my surface grinder. If the barrel is drilled to the thickness of the parts clinched, the thin punch will pull the rivet out easier I think it may actually stretch the barrel and reduce the diameter (slightly?). Less risk of structure damage if you aren't concentric in your drilling.

FWIW

[BillL]

Originally Posted by JonJay

For the occasional universal head removal, the procedure Bill describes of "walking" the drill bit works. This also works for flush heads.
However, if you have a lot of them to remove, or want a more fool proof method, buy this tool;
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...vetremoval.php

In my restoration work, I have had the occasion to remove literally thousands of rivets. When properly set up, this tool allows you to move quickly and safely. At one point in time, I was removing on average over ten rivets per minute. I burned through several drill bits.

Even if you don't have hundreds to remove, this tool makes clean work of it, and we all need an excuse to have one more tool right?

I got one of these cool tools after watching the HS-spar crack-SB video where it was used. It was really quick!! I even tried it on the shop head with a nicely fitting guide.

BTW - I only suggested universal heads for drill-out-practice as they give more drill practice time. It is rare for me to use a center punch until time to knock out the husk. The updated Section 5 is pretty good on this now. Everyone should drill out 10 a day just too keep in shape