Does anyone experience junk like this? Long story/need advice

[drone_pilot]

It is possible that a rare earth magnet may have worked although I'm not sure of the makeup of the material in the Allen wrench, Can you say "pot metal"? Also, there are a lot of things for a magnet to stick to down there and that's all I needed was for the magnet to come loose requiring me fish out two stuck parts.

I honestly considered a magnet but thought I stood a better chance with the stick and superglue. I have not had too much luck super-gluing metal to metal so I figured a gel glue with the porosity of the wooden stick against the metal ball might work (Aggie Engineering). As it turned out, it worked first try. That's not too common in my world! But thank God I got it out!!! Its a sinking feeling when a ball about the size of a BB could cause major problems and expense.

I'm taking some previous advice on this post and getting the best quality tool I can find to go at it again. That's kinda my philosophy on tools anyway but bought the cheap tool because I had "GetterDoneItis" and didn't want to wait. Turns out the cheap tool route combined with my lack of brain engagement about using a hex ball head on a tight part bit me. Cheap seems to work okay for sanding and grinding but I find high quality (usually expensive - there I said it!) works much better for turning, cranking, cutting, drilling/machining. Just my personal philosophy.

[Ralph Inkster]

Still trying to get that plug out?
On a change over to Fixed- I dealt with the rear plug by using a long center punch, knocked a 1/4" hole in it which did the job. The real fun came 2 weeks later when I was asked to put the C/S back on... Now I really had to remove the rear plug... I used a modified long cold chisel to open up the hole big enough to get another modified cold chisel (narrowed and ground to a kind of fish hook shape) & used it as a puller.
Those chisels hopefully don't come in handy again someday soon...

[plehrke]

Originally Posted by drone_pilot

I have not had too much luck super-gluing metal to metal

Try JB Weld

[Snowflake]

Originally Posted by Canadian_JOY

Peter Garrison of FLYING magazine fame conducted a test in his Melmoth II with a stopped vs coarse-pitch C/S prop. He also tested with open throttle vs closed throttle. His conclusions were that a windmilling C/S prop, with throttle set wide open, gave the best glide distance. The rate of descent with a stopped prop was less than a windmilling coarse prop, but the altitude lost in stopping the prop outweighed the advantage in descent rate (unless you were gliding from somewhere way up in the flight levels). In that story he cited several references which would make good reading on the topic. Now if only I could find that issue of FLYING...

Note that Peter did it with a metal prop, if you're flying with a wood prop the altitude loss necessary to stop it turning after an engine failure is about zero (assuming you still have engine compression). If I had a wood prop, even cruising around casual altitudes (2-3K agl) i'd try to stop it just to gain the glide distance.

[maniago]

Originally Posted by drone_pilot

If I'm not mistaken, there is a prop governor cover with a slot milled in it that will allow the oil to return back to the crank case. You do need to be careful that you have the correct milled cover and not the flat cover. I do have the correct cover. I just like less parts if I can get away with it. That's why if I cannot remove this rear plug easily, I'll just keep the oil return tube in place and install the special milled cover to allow the oil to bypass.

NOTE: Don't go off of my words. This is just my understanding. Please chime in if I am missing something.

The plate has been discussed before here on VAF. The part number is Lycoming #72378, Alt governor cover plate; SI1435 Apr25 1986 Conversion of CS to FP and vice versa....

[az_gila]

Originally Posted by maniago

The plate has been discussed before here on VAF. The part number is Lycoming #72378, Alt governor cover plate; SI1435 Apr25 1986 Conversion of CS to FP and vice versa....

You can recognize it by a raised area on the outside.



It has the notch mentioned on the engine side -

[Johnnybgoode]

Broke an allen tip off removing my old Terra transponder last week. Placed a horseshoe magnet on the remaining part of the wrench and getting the broken part out was easy as falling off a log. Filed down the wrench to a flat end and used it to complete the job.
Hopefully the transponder repair is as painless...
Patrick

[drone_pilot]

Not cheap but I purchased a Snap-On 3/8" socket drive, 6" long, 3/16" Allen Wrench. The rear plug was in tight. Was cautious on the wrench pressure but with some patience, the threads broke loose and I was able to remove the plug. I spent a few minutes fishing it out from behind the cross tube. If I have any input, I'd say to purchase the best tool you can find. I originally purchased a cheap tool and spent much of Saturday fishing it out of the engine after it broke. Sometimes cheap costs more.

Before I install the front plug on the crankshaft for fixed pitch, how should I clean the cavity? While removing the rear plug, I noticed some minor grunge that I'd like to remove before plugging. Likewise, is Permatex #3 acceptable for sealing the edges of the front plug? It is rated to 400 degrees on the data sheet.