Oil door 6A

[koda2]

Have to cut a hole in an old white cowl for the oil door.
Plans say just center it over the dipstick.
Any other words of wisdom before I just wag it?

Dave A.

[jay.pearlman]

I did it after I had the engine on its mounts and the position was obvious. If not there yet, find a similar plane and copy.
There is a spring loaded flush hinge which has worked very well as well a a flush lock. I will be at the airport next week and can take measurements and a photo.
You will most likely need a funnel later.

[AJ85WA]

This might help, I have not had a problem with access. 0-320 engine

https://rv6aj.wordpress.com/2013/08/16/oil-door/

[koda2]

Thanks for the replies.
I did some searching, including the archives to get some ideas.
Tony Bingelis suggested how to find the center of the door.
Put it where the dipstick cover will be as it reaches the height of the cowl.
So mine ended up a little aft of the Vans current cowl and putting in oil will take a funnel. But it would have anyway probably.
I had already decided to try and use the cowl piece as the door before I saw AJ's post but, if I did it again I think I would go aluminum. Lighter.

I also used Vans dorky Mickey Mouse ears camlocs for three reasons. They were already paid for, they were lighter than the other brands, and required no tool to open. When I put them in I aligned the edges with a straight edge and drilled the rivet holes, so when closed they present an edge to the windstream. I can always Dremel off the wings for a screwdriver slot.

I had all the parts for the hinge except the spring so I fabricated the rest.





Not an award winner but I think i can be seen with it in public.
Dave A

[JonJay]

Looks good to me. When you get ready to rivet, bed the hinge mounts in epoxy or suitable adhesive. That will insure they don't smoke over time.

[fixnflyguy]

I had to relocate the standard oil door location on my -4 because of my O-320H2AD choice (different dipstick location). I made a hinge like yours, and used a single pushbutton latch system because I had one. A couple things that I would recommend while your completing yours..bond a piece of rubber (baffle material works) to the inside of the hinge face which will contact the cowling when its fully open as a "bumper". More importantly, a spring which will hold the door open when unlatched will simplify checking /changing/adding oil, as well as helping let the heat out after flying. You will see many that open the door after flying to keep internal cowl heat down..I know I do.