Wings - Page 2

wirejock · #11 03-23-2015, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wilddog

How much distance between the wings is needed to work comfortably? And how high should the fwd spar be above the floor for 6' builder?

I'm short, 5' 6" with short arms. My wing jigs were built so the spar was 4' off the ground and 3' between the wings. Worked pretty well. Only a few times a creeper was used to work rivets on the rear spar. Height was pretty good for riveting the bottom skins. Much higher or lower and my shop stool would have been useless. I have two Home Depot rolling shop stools. They adjust like an office chair. Very handy.

Av8torTom · #12 03-23-2015, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVM

Other option I am considering is this design in wood:
Wing stand SmittysRV

Thanks!

Consider using threaded rod to support the spar bracket. This way you can "dial" it in dead level.

DaleB · #13 03-23-2015, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Av8torTom

Consider using threaded rod to support the spar bracket. This way you can "dial" it in dead level.

Absolutely. wouldn't do it any other way. In fact, I have a complete set of AL angles and threaded rods, nuts, brackets, etc. if anyone needs them. They're even notched for the spar flange. The guy who started my -7 made them, they're quite nice.

WVM · #14 03-24-2015, 05:46 AM

Many thanks all for the suggestions! Going to start on the wing stand next week

WVM · #15 04-14-2015, 09:14 AM

I have the impression that not many use pro-seal for the wedges, while VANS is actually strongly recommending it. I also checked out the tip for the boat epoxy, but this seems also not the most easy material to work with. I may be wrong but I seems that a lot even apply nothing at all.

Does anyone has a detailed picture of those applications for the rudder? Just to get an idea how it will/should look like.

wirejock · #16 04-14-2015, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVM

I have the impression that not many use pro-seal for the wedges, while VANS is actually strongly recommending it. I also checked out the tip for the boat epoxy, but this seems also not the most easy material to work with. I may be wrong but I seems that a lot even apply nothing at all.

Does anyone has a detailed picture of those applications for the rudder? Just to get an idea how it will/should look like.

I must be in the minority camp. I prosealed the stiffeners to the skins on both rudder and elevators and prosealed the wedge in the rudder with dollops at the intersections of the stiffeners. Basically they were all done the same as fuel tanks. Fay sealing method. Apply a film to both parts or sides, cleko and allow to cure or set them wet. The wedge was allowed to cure before riveting.
No photos of prosealing but there is a photo of the rudder clekoed to angle. Check the "empennage" page on my blog.

WVM · #17 04-14-2015, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wirejock

I must be in the minority camp. I prosealed the stiffeners to the skins on both rudder and elevators and prosealed the wedge in the rudder with dollops at the intersections of the stiffeners. Basically they were all done the same as fuel tanks. Fay sealing method. Apply a film to both parts or sides, cleko and allow to cure or set them wet. The wedge was allowed to cure before riveting.
No photos of prosealing but there is a photo of the rudder clekoed to angle. Check the "empennage" page on my blog.

I don't know who mentioned it to me, but only the rudder was set with pro-seal or T-88 epoxy according to him.
For the right elevator the manual is saying "To finish the trailing edge, follow the same procedures used for the rudder". I suppose that is including pro-seal or T-88?
For the left elevator it is mentioned as follow "While the elevator trailing edge is clecoed closed, match drill the overlapping stiffeners that close-out the elevator just outboard of the trim tab using the pre-punched holes in the E-908-R stiffeners as a drill guide. After drilling, remove the trailing edge spacer, deburr the drilled holes and dimple the skin. Dimple the holes in the E908-R stiffeners fro CS-4-4 rivets. The trailing edge spacer is machine countersunk on both sides to fit the dimples in the skin. The trailing edge should be back-riveted with the manufactured head on the upper surface. When back riveting the trailing edge, start driving with the gun held parallel to the rivet and then tilt the gun perpendicular to the skin while driving." Nothing mentioned about pro-seal or T-88 anymore...

WVM · #18 04-15-2015, 04:23 AM

Contacted VANS: You will use this proces for all three. Case closed :-)

byoung · #19 04-15-2015, 02:47 PM

Van's sells a small can of pro seal that is sufficient for doing the rudder trailing edge. So you can do that now if you want.

http://vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/stor...roduct=proseal

I used RTV for the stiffeners in the elevators.

My advice is to not order the quart can of pro seal for the tanks until you are ready to start riveting. It took me a long time to get to that point and by then the pro seal I ordered with the wing kit had expired.

Build both wings at once. There is definitely a productivity benefit from learning the work on one side and then immediately applying it again on the other. You will need a bunch more silver clecos though.