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  #1  
Old 03-30-2015, 08:31 PM
DMFenster DMFenster is offline
 
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Location: Woodbridge, VA
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Default 8 landing gear bolt torque

Sanity check - The two PITA bolts have torque specs called out. I get that. Question is - The remaining bolts get torques to the spec consistent with their size - correct?
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Old 03-30-2015, 09:41 PM
DMFenster DMFenster is offline
 
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Smile

Let me put this another way....

In the 8 there are 2 bolts inside the gear towers - I get those.
There are other bolts which hold the gear on that the torque specs are not specifically called out. Are these torqued to the specs consistent with the bolt diameter?

Thanks all,

Dave
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  #3  
Old 03-31-2015, 05:35 AM
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cjhammes cjhammes is offline
 
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Default Correct

Yes, the 2 PITAs are 240in/lbs, and the others follow std diameter spec torque.
Enjoy!
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  #4  
Old 04-10-2015, 09:54 AM
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AAflyer AAflyer is offline
 
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Default Gear nuts with epoxied wrench-ends?

Can anyone speak from experience about how they torqued these bolts if they modified the nuts with epoxied-on wrench ends?
For those scratching their heads, a little explanation?.I read and followed a post that showed how some guys cut off the end of a wrench, glue it to the nut, and install inside the gear tower. This, purportedly allows you to easily re-torque these PITA nuts from the bolt-head side, instead of spelunking into the crowded gear towers, where the nut with the glued-on wrench end, which still has a small "lug", remains jammed in place. Of course this will invalidate the specified torque value.

My question: how do you recalculate a proper torque value? TLAR? A certain percentage above what's specified? Should you lube these close tolerance bolts so they turn easier?
I'm almost ready to turn my fuselage upright to install gear, and have been wondering about this technique.
Thanks, guys.
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  #5  
Old 04-10-2015, 10:14 AM
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cjhammes cjhammes is offline
 
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Default

This does not answer your question, but possibly a simpler solution. See post #6.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...highlight=bolt
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  #6  
Old 04-10-2015, 02:49 PM
N258RE N258RE is offline
 
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Location: MI
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I do it with a wrench I made like this:



and a second person on the torque wrench underneath, not ideal torquing the bolt but it is what it is
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  #7  
Old 04-16-2015, 06:44 AM
Wiley Wiley is offline
 
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Default

I use the NAS1804-6 nuts with the bolts in from the top on Grove gear. I was able to use the Fairings Etc fairing but the nuts did require a mod to the fairing essentially protruded 1/4-1/2 inch. Modified the fairing with a ridge that is the size of 1/2 a hotdog bun.
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  #8  
Old 04-16-2015, 11:59 AM
scsmith scsmith is offline
 
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Location: Ashland, OR
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AAflyer View Post
Can anyone speak from experience about how they torqued these bolts if they modified the nuts with epoxied-on wrench ends?
For those scratching their heads, a little explanation?.I read and followed a post that showed how some guys cut off the end of a wrench, glue it to the nut, and install inside the gear tower. This, purportedly allows you to easily re-torque these PITA nuts from the bolt-head side, instead of spelunking into the crowded gear towers, where the nut with the glued-on wrench end, which still has a small "lug", remains jammed in place. Of course this will invalidate the specified torque value.

My question: how do you recalculate a proper torque value? TLAR? A certain percentage above what's specified? Should you lube these close tolerance bolts so they turn easier?
I'm almost ready to turn my fuselage upright to install gear, and have been wondering about this technique.
Thanks, guys.
What I did was measure the torque required to turn the bolt before it got tight. This presumably is a measure of the friction torque that is required to turn the bolt. I added that torque to the torque specification. Assuming the added friction under the head of the bolt to turn it when it is tight is about the same as the friction to turn a nut, this should be about right. The wild card is if the bolt turning friction changes when the bolt is tight, because of parts alignment. So, if anything, my technique is still a bit on the low side, but not off by as much as just using the torque spec without correction.
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  #9  
Old 04-16-2015, 05:12 PM
DMFenster DMFenster is offline
 
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Default How I did it

Bought 2 1/4" drive 9/16" sockets. Then ground them down every-which-way-but Sunday. Made them shorter and narrower. The I mangled my hand into the gear tower and got the sockets on each nut. Then I fed a long extension with a universal down onto each socket through one of the lightening holes. Put a 1/4" drive on each extension and my buddy torqued down from the outside while I held both drives. It would be a pain for the initial torque to try to switch the socket back and forth because they are torqued in 5 in-lb increments. Worked out fine.
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  #10  
Old 04-16-2015, 07:07 PM
Sig600 Sig600 is offline
 
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Flash light, mirror, Two wobble heads and two extensions, and a 7/16 twelve point socket... With two people I can retorque the gear tower bolts in < 2 minutes.
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