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03-02-2015, 07:57 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Half Moon Bay, CA
Posts: 1,035
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Get a good paint mixer
Stop by the aviation isle at Home Depot and pick up one of these paint mixers:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Workforce...M1HD/202251542
It chucks into your cordless drill and does a great job with the solid that settle at the bottom of the can. I actually run it at the lowest speed (hight torque setting) on my drill, and I run it CCW to minimize the amount of churn in the can, especially when full. Works great to get a uniform mix without shaking.
__________________
Bill Bencze
N430WB RV-7 #74152 @ KHAF, tip-up; IO-360-M1B; Hartzell CS. !! Phase 1 !!
2357 hrs over 8.5 years to get to flying. Log at: http://rv7.wbencze.com
VAF 2020 donation happily made
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03-02-2015, 11:10 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjb
Stop by the aviation isle at Home Depot and pick up one of these paint mixers:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Workforce...M1HD/202251542
It chucks into your cordless drill and does a great job with the solid that settle at the bottom of the can. I actually run it at the lowest speed (hight torque setting) on my drill, and I run it CCW to minimize the amount of churn in the can, especially when full. Works great to get a uniform mix without shaking.
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Actually, the on-can mixers he has are quite good if turned for an adequate length of time. The bottom of the mixer contacts the bottom of the can. He just needed to turn it for about 10-15 min for the first time.
__________________
Bill
RV-7
Lord Kelvin:
“I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about,
and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you
cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge
is of a meager and unsatisfactory kind.”
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03-02-2015, 12:08 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 1,055
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You might consider getting the cheap paint can shaker at Harbor Freight. It makes quick and thorough work of the epoxy paint mixing. Don't let your friends know cuz you will be the neighborhood paint shaker its so awesome! If you do get it forget the little oiler it is terrible. And it makes a lot of condensation to putting it with a drain line is a good idea.
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Ser 104142, RV-14A flying - N1463 
Ser 83825, RV-8 building - N8638? 
USN Ret, Urologist, AME, Repeat Offender
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03-02-2015, 01:00 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Racine, WI
Posts: 194
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I have some gallon quantities of prekote for sae. Send a p .m . if you need some.
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RV-7A
IO-360 Hartzell CSP
Purchased
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03-02-2015, 03:09 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: lake charles, La.
Posts: 699
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Prekote
I have no exp with azco, I do want to comment on prekote. I used it on my entire rv8. It is a lot of work. The directions specifically say to apply and scrub with scotbrite, rinse well the reapply and scrub again 90 degrees from the first(don't scrub so hard to remove the Alclad finish). Please note that when rinsing the final product you should see the water actually sheet off of the surface. If there is an area that did not get done enough, the water will tend to bead up there, redo that area. Also to prevent contamination I dried only with dry filtered compressed air, no rags of any type and no touchy with bare hands after this process.
When spraying I found my epoxy primer to flow out nicely and the whole paint job came out rather nice. I used epoxy primer and kirker base coat/ clear coat process.
Bird
__________________
Bird
rv8 entire airframe at airport now, painting done, intersection and gear upper and lower fairings done, maybe order engine around first of year or before the next rate increase.
"to fly is a privilege that I am so thankful to God for"
http://www.mykitlog.com/tcb328/
Last edited by bird : 03-02-2015 at 03:12 PM.
Reason: Still can't spell
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03-02-2015, 08:16 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bird
I have no exp with azco, I do want to comment on prekote. I used it on my entire rv8. It is a lot of work. The directions specifically say to apply and scrub with scotbrite, rinse well the reapply and scrub again 90 degrees from the first(don't scrub so hard to remove the Alclad finish). Please note that when rinsing the final product you should see the water actually sheet off of the surface. If there is an area that did not get done enough, the water will tend to bead up there, redo that area. Also to prevent contamination I dried only with dry filtered compressed air, no rags of any type and no touchy with bare hands after this process.
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Thanks, sounds like I'm doing this part correctly then
(still haven't had a chance to retry the primer - will most likely do it next weekend)
__________________
Rodrigo Damazio Bovendorp
San Jose, CA
RV-10 builder #41623
Build log at http://www.airplane.build/
VAF dues paid
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03-21-2015, 11:58 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 250
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Success!  Thanks for the advice.
Here's a picture of the result (with the previous result next to it for comparison):

__________________
Rodrigo Damazio Bovendorp
San Jose, CA
RV-10 builder #41623
Build log at http://www.airplane.build/
VAF dues paid
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03-22-2015, 05:03 AM
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Harrisburg, Pa
Posts: 759
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I'd say you improved your process for sure 
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03-22-2015, 07:34 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Bowie MD
Posts: 886
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I'm late to this party, sorry about that, but a few comments for your perusal RD.
Based on your last pic, it looks to me that you have it on too thick now. Ok what's wrong with too thick? Nothing really, except a bit o' weight. That said, after I clean my part (prekote etal) I use a black sharpie to either mark the part number or whatever and then shoot the Akzo on the part. If I cover paint the part and can't see any shiny AL, but can still read the sharpie writing, its the right thickness. Its less coverage than you would think - might be two passes, but usually just one (YMMV wrt fan pattern).
Also, I'm a firm believer in using a primer pistol for Akzo, not a gun. The gun is overkill - way over kill - and clean up with a gun is just a PITA. The pistol is a simple siphon grade school "system" but works excellent for akzo. I do little parts and full sized skins with it - all the same.
http://www.aircraftspruce.eu/primer-pistol.htm
(Not sure why its showing up on the the EU site and not the US site, but you got a pic here.)
I got mine from the US site (in Sept14), and I use 10psi to shoot it. Clean up is a quick shoot with some acetone and wipe out the cup and reuse. Nothing is easier, not even using a brush.
Oh yeah and on mixing, all I do is shake my paint single part up side down using my arms - maybe 20 or 30 seconds (good upper body work out!), and open and mix with the second part. I guess you could use a paint shaker, but I've not found it even remotely necessary, and I don't own one. You could also store the paint single part upside down so the solids float to the top (errr, bottom?), and shake it again before use. Naturally make sure your lid is on well, and maybe store it in a bucket incase it leaks. But again, I don't do this either way, and found no need for it.
Just my .02
__________________
Mani
Busby MustangII (FoldingWing) Pending DAR.
Don't be a hater; I'm a cousin with thin wings! 
N251Y (res)
Last edited by maniago : 03-22-2015 at 07:41 AM.
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03-24-2015, 10:32 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Coal Point, Australia
Posts: 128
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shaking paint
I normally do my priming in large batches which means months and month pass beteeen painting. Very lazy and want a good mix so i duck down to the local Bunnings (like wallmart) and get the paint guys to chuck the Akzo base can on the shaker for a few minutes while.i wander around and buy more tape, thinners, gloves etc.
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Regards,
Rob.
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