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  #31  
Old 03-19-2015, 05:47 AM
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WingedFrog WingedFrog is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgmwa View Post
Can see the text but no photos.
My apologies folks, there was a problem with Google that was not visible from my computer. I reloaded the pictures, it should be fixed now.
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  #32  
Old 03-19-2015, 06:16 AM
rgmwa rgmwa is offline
 
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All good now.
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  #33  
Old 03-19-2015, 07:06 AM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is offline
 
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Good Job Jean-Pierre!

Pictures can not be directly posted on VansAirforce. Instead, a url is posted of the picture that is located on some other website.
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  #34  
Old 03-19-2015, 07:58 AM
John-G John-G is offline
 
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Default Bravo!!!

Bravo !!! Jean-Pierre ? in theory, I do like your solution for not installing the voltage regulator inside the cockpit. The thought of placing a high current device prone to failures with a good probability of creating smoke inside the cockpit when it does fail does not sit very well with me.

That said, I applaud your creativity and on the surface love your idea of moving the regulator to an area where there is bountiful airflow moving across it. My concern is with thermal mass ? in that having the regulator bolted to a metal firewall (especially when using some thermal paste) will aid in drawing a considerable amount of heat away from the regulator. I feel the fins on the regulator are anemic at best for the amount of heat it generates. The fiberglass, which the regulator is mounted onto, will not aid much in drawing heat away from the regulator. This could possibly be a big factor when on the ground during very hot days after a flight.

For me the big question is will improved airflow alone across the regulator be enough to cool it on the ground during hot days? ? I suspect it will because, in theory, the regulator should be much cooler upon landing because of the massive amount of air flowing past it prior to landing.

Since you have two regulators now, it would be an interesting experiment to mount temperature test strips on both regulators and during a hot day fly on one regulator with maximum current load, land and do some ground operations. Then move the wiring connector over to the backup regulator on the firewall and repeat the test.

Great thinking outside the box and moving the regulator inside the box!
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  #35  
Old 03-19-2015, 08:03 AM
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Bill_H Bill_H is offline
 
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Very nice!
I like the extender cable idea. In my case I want to move the OEM regulator. But I also want to install the Bender Baffle and that particular location is right in the way. I need to get under the hood and examine some alternatives. Also thinking about not moving the regulator but adding a scoop inside the plenum (upstream of the Bender Baffle) as the source of the existing blast tube.
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  #36  
Old 03-19-2015, 08:17 AM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is offline
 
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I left my voltage regulator in the original location but attached the blast tube to the radiator duct. The fitting is made from scrap aluminum tube. Slits were cut in the end of the tube to make the splayed legs. Originally I used a rubber "O" ring instead of the safety wire, but the "O" ring broke. The safety wire is not easy to work with without pliers.

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  #37  
Old 03-19-2015, 10:20 AM
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WingedFrog WingedFrog is offline
 
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Thanks guys for your comments which contribute to the experimental spirit of this forum. Lots of food for thought, here are my own views about some comments:

- About the heat transfer from the contact of the regulator housing with the firewall, if you look at the housing, the eyelets through which it is bolted are protruding which means only the eyelets contact the firewall, not the sides and certainly not the potting mixture as you have noticed it is concave and in recess from the base. While this compound is heat conducting as noted by Mike Miller, its temperature at the surface is not as high as that of the fins and I suspect that the slight space created by the protrusion of the eyelets allows enough air to circulate to provide some cooling. Furthermore, some folks on this forum mentioned that their firewall can get very hot too, particularly in the area close to the regulator because of the radiation created by the nearby exhaust pipe.

- Conflict with the Bender Baffle: I know, I intend to provoke John into a duel to solve the issue

- Blast tube off the cooling duct: It was my initial thought but after measuring the dynamic pressure inside the cooling duct at idle RPM, I did not find the pressure of 5mm of water was sufficient to guarantee enough cooling during ground operation.

Getting serious about the baffle, my preference would be to have such a baffle at the air inlet so that both oil and water radiators get the restricted cooling. I hope some crafty guys will come with something like a diaphragm camera. I don't know a lot about John's baffle but I am pretty sure it is possible to have both "Bender Baffle" and "Bernoux Back-up" coexist peacefully as the footprint of the regulator is not that big.
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Builder's name: Jean-Pierre Bernoux
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Kit # 120395 N124BX
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Builder's Blog:http://vieilleburette.blogspot.com/
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Last edited by WingedFrog : 03-19-2015 at 10:22 AM. Reason: typo
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  #38  
Old 03-19-2015, 12:21 PM
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MacPara MacPara is offline
 
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Joe, what did you do inside the radiator duct? Did you let the tube stick out a bit and cut it off in a 45 degree angle to direct air into the tube? Or did you just rely on the pressure inside the duct to allow some air to escape into the blast tube?
I have received my Silent-Hektik regulator/rectifier from Germany and plan on installing it over the weekend while also changing the air pickup to the radiator duct. Interesting about the Silent-Hektik is that the base of the case is flat, milled aluminum. That will allow to use thermal paste to conduct some of the heat to the mounting surface and away from the regulator. Very solid construction all around. I'll post pictures in my blog when I'm done.
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  #39  
Old 03-19-2015, 01:14 PM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is offline
 
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Quote:
Did you let the tube stick out a bit and cut it off in a 45 degree angle to direct air into the tube?
No, the tube does not protrude into the air duct. The diameter of the hole drilled into the air duct is the same as the inside diameter of the tube. So it relies on pressure differential for air flow. I made that modification 2 years ago. The regulator has not failed . . . yet.
I thought of another way to hold the black blast tube inside of the aluminum fitting. Strike the outside of the aluminum with a punch to make dimples protrude on the inside. When inserting the blast tube, it will have to be forced past the dimples. Thus no tools or fasteners will be needed to insert or remove the blast tube.
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  #40  
Old 03-19-2015, 01:18 PM
rgmwa rgmwa is offline
 
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I've left my regulator on the firewall and don't plan to move it under the panel at this stage. In all this discussion about the best way to get air to the regulator, what happens when it does get there? The shroud is a pretty tight fit and even the corners are sealed, so where does the incoming air go? I'm sure Vans thought this through when they designed it so there must be a reason for the tight seal, but I'm wondering if the shroud shouldn't have some exit holes or preferably an outlet duct to allow the incoming air to flow over the fins and escape?
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