SB: 14-11-03 Issued (RV-12 Wing Skin-to-Spar Rivet Wear)

[rvbuilder2002]

Originally Posted by kevinl4000

What are people using for the thin strip of steel?

If all you have is some scrap aluminum .025-.040 thick, that will work fine also.

[BLee]

I 'fabricated' a protective strip from one of the metal straps used on the shipping crates.

[hjd3021]

I did the service bulletin today on the right wing which I still had in work so had avoided installation of the rivets that were required to be drilled out. I seem to have an issue with the 5/32 rivets that was being addressed in this thread. I used a #22 drill per the instructions for the 8 holes. All of my 8 rivets ended up slightly higher than the manufactured head. I used two different manual pullers and also my pneumatic puller. I got similar results with each one. The picture shows close-up of the stems. Looking at the pieces that broke off the break is in nearly the same place on every one of them. What should I do now? I'm afraid if I try grinding or filing on the stems it will loosen them. My shop heads look exactly like they should based on the other pictures I have seen.

[kevinl4000]

All eight of mine broke proud of the rivet head also. I filed 'em down flush with the rivet head. The trick on that was, do the 5/32"rivets first, and counting from inboard, do #8 first, then #7, and so on trying not to scratch the doubler with the file. The picture below is also a link to my blog post on the SB.

[magiccarpet]

Originally Posted by kevinl4000

All eight of mine broke proud of the rivet head also.

It seems that this a common issue for the BSPQ. Is there a method to avoid that, or at least to minimize the probability that the stems break proud?
I am about to install the SB doubler plates and I don't like the idea of filing them down after riveting.
Thanks !

[BLee]

Back on 1-28, Bill and Scott suggested using less air pressure on the rivet puller...so I tried 40psi. It did work better, breaking the rivet stem just barely below the top of the factory head.

Just FYI, I'm using the Isham (planetools.com) rivet puller, their 'heavy duty' model.

[Ueli N]

I got the doubler but have not installed it yet, the wings are still in somebody else's garage.
Noticing most builders have some problems with long stems, I did some checking.
The rivet diameter is .155"
The No 22 drill is. .157
A fractional 5/32 is. .156
This 1/100" May make a difference, or at least I will try it when I get to it.

[magiccarpet]

I sacrified three of those BSPQ and practiced on a scrap piece. The first one I pulled by the hand riveter, the others by the pneumatic puller at 40..45psi. All stems broke proud.
To install the doubler I followed Kevin's suggestions. I started with the 5/32" from outboard to inboard.
After each rivet, I filed down the stem. All stem broke proud 3/64" above the dome head. The trick is go slow and
to take your time while filing. Constantly check that you don't scratch the doubler or (even worse) the skin. There's not much clearance.



Then I installed the cherry followed by the AD41H and finally the LP4-3. (whouu 4 different types of rivets for a doubler plate )
At the end, I smoothed the BSPQ row by 400 sanding paper and finally scuffed the doubler plate by scotch brite pad.
I am happy how it came out, but have to admit that it's much easier doing that during the build.



And yes, I did prime the bottom side of the doubler plate prior installation.

[mwardle7]

I must be doing something obviously wrong, but I can't get the doubler holes to line up with the closely-spaced holes on the main spar. Am I missing something?

The holes along the red lines do not match up. Are they supposed to?

[Chopkins]

Hi

Try flipping the doubler over. I had this happen on my right wing at the weekend. I stood staring at it scratching my head and my friend just picked it up, flipped it over and all was well!.

Anthony
Tamworth, England