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  #1  
Old 02-01-2015, 11:17 PM
rv9builder rv9builder is offline
 
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Default Will these squeezer yokes work for the RV-12?

As you probably know, Van's recommends a 3-inch squeezer yoke for the RV-12. I own a 2 1/2-inch yoke from a previous project. Do you think I can get by with the 2 1/2-inch yoke, or are there a lot of instances where you need the full 3-inch reach? I do have a rivet gun and bucking bar I can use if there are only a few solid rivets I won't be able to reach with the 2 1/2-inch yoke.

I also own a longeron yoke and Avery C-frame. Has anyone found these useful for building an RV-12?

Thank you.
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Old 02-02-2015, 06:10 AM
Dave12 Dave12 is online now
 
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You should be fine since you have the rivet gun. The c-frame probably won't get used much, at least mine doesn't. I probably use the gun more than most others do.
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  #3  
Old 02-02-2015, 06:59 AM
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:21 AM
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bhassel bhassel is offline
 
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If memory serves me correctly (it rarely does), I used even larger than a 3" extension on the rear bulkhead of the tailcone. Of course you can just use the gun, but if you like squeezing you may need a larger size.

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Old 02-02-2015, 12:51 PM
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MacPara MacPara is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhassel View Post
If memory serves me correctly (it rarely does), I used even larger than a 3" extension on the rear bulkhead of the tailcone. Of course you can just use the gun, but if you like squeezing you may need a larger size.
I think your memory served you right this time . I remember having issues in getting the rear bulkhead done with the 3" yoke. It was borderline and as I had no experience with a bucking bar, I chose to get a larger yoke (I think 4 or 4.5") which made riveting the rear bulkhead easy as pie.
I you are good with the bucking bar, then you would not need that as there are only a few rivets where you'd wish you had the full 3" yoke or something even deeper.
I can't comment on the C-frame but I never felt I wanted one during the built. Now if you' wanted to use CS pull rivets on the wing skins and had to dimple the holes, that would probably be a different situation.
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  #6  
Old 02-02-2015, 07:01 PM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
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I'd recommend a river gun with an offset rivet set for the bulkhead. The clearance was tight for the squeezer. If you lay thin cardboard on the aluminum you will protect it from scratches during the riveting.
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:11 PM
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Bill_H Bill_H is offline
 
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The 3" yoke will do every solid rivet on the -12, including the rear bulkhead. It's just a matter of getting the angle right. A couple on the rear bulkhead will have you scratch your head, then you move it just the right way and say "Of course!"
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:11 PM
rv9builder rv9builder is offline
 
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Thanks everyone for the feedback. Since I already have the 2 1/2-inch yoke, I'll start with it, and if there are dozens of rivets I can't reach, I'll get a longer yoke!
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:26 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill_H View Post
The 3" yoke will do every solid rivet on the -12, including the rear bulkhead. It's just a matter of getting the angle right. A couple on the rear bulkhead will have you scratch your head, then you move it just the right way and say "Of course!"
Bill is right.
If you weren't able to rivet the aft bulkhead with a 3" yolk you either are no good with puzzles or you didn't hold your tongue right.......
The pushrod opening was specifically designed to make it possible.
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  #10  
Old 02-03-2015, 05:17 PM
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bhassel bhassel is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
Bill is right.
If you weren't able to rivet the aft bulkhead with a 3" yolk you either are no good with puzzles or you didn't hold your tongue right.......
The pushrod opening was specifically designed to make it possible.
I think I resemble both

Bob
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