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01-26-2015, 12:27 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,145
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I left the blue film on the parts only up to the point where I picked it up the first time to do something with it - as soon as I did the first operation (like match-drilling to another part) the film came off. If it sits too long (years versus months) it becomes very difficult to remove.
When you remove the film, write the part number on the part with a Sharpie, you'll need that later...
__________________
Greg Niehues - SEL, IFR, Repairman Cert.
Garden City, TX VAF 2020 dues paid 
N16GN flying 700 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, 430W
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now.
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01-26-2015, 02:01 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 5,297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDBoston
I am hardly a veteran, however this is one thing I am doing as well. What I have been doing is tearing away the blue film on the rivet lines rather than neatly using a soldering iron. That allows me to dimple and also rivet while preserving a little of the film to stop the inevitible scratching from the bench grindings and loose rivets that always seem to be there when you put the surface down on the bench.
After I finish the large piece (flap, etc) I just remove the remaining blue film. If you have ever seen a plane prepped for paint, it will make your scratches look like minor issues.
I also had an instructor when I took a sheet metal class (experienced guy) tell us to take the film off as well as he had seen problems with moisture and dust under it.
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+1
I had corrossion where the prior owner left it on. I painted my plane and didn't use alodine. Instead, I sanded with 80 grit and used epoxy primer. Very little you could do that won't come out with 80 grit. Epoxy looked like a sheet of glass when laid down.
Larry
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01-26-2015, 05:46 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yarmouth, Nova Scotia
Posts: 2,408
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Seems to me 80 grit would make deep scratches, is this standard grit for most?
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Thanks Ron
RV-10 SOLD
RV-14 Flying
AirCam flying
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01-26-2015, 06:08 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 173
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That Van's tape can peel of a layer of plywood!! Amazing stuff!!!!
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01-26-2015, 07:35 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 1,788
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Yikes! 80 grit. How about a maroon scotch bride pad instead
__________________
Bill Peyton
RV-10 - 1125 hrs
N37CP
First Flight Oct 2012
Aviation Partners, LLC
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01-26-2015, 07:39 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,947
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Maroon pad
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill.Peyton
Yikes! 80 grit. How about a maroon scotch bride pad instead
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That's what I use. Grey will work too on lighter spots. Shoot a little self etching primer on the spot till it's time to prime or paint.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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01-26-2015, 07:47 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Catawba, NC
Posts: 193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DragonflyAero
That Van's tape can peel of a layer of plywood!! Amazing stuff!!!!
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We make that tape about an hour west of you. And yes, it is overkill.
__________________
mangling aluminum since May 2009
RV7-A, flying
RV8 under construction
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01-26-2015, 07:55 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,435
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What is that tape?
Dave
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01-26-2015, 08:12 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Catawba, NC
Posts: 193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Paule
What is that tape?
Dave
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Co-extruded cloth duct tape. The particular tape van's uses is one of the more aggressive products in terms of tensile strength, tack and shear.
__________________
mangling aluminum since May 2009
RV7-A, flying
RV8 under construction
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01-26-2015, 08:44 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 5,297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron B.
Seems to me 80 grit would make deep scratches, is this standard grit for most?
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It is a pretty standard practice in automotive painting. While you can get the corrossion off with less grit the 80 gives a good tooth for primer. While you get chemical adhesion between coats, the grip between the paint and metal is mechanical. The deeper the scratches, the better the adhesion. The primer fills it in nicely then you sand the primer with finer grits if using base clear. Check out all of your chips on a base/clear paint job. They are usually between the base and the primer. This is because there is no chemical adhesion and the primer is usually sanded with 400 grit as the base can't fill the scratches like epoxy primer can.
Like I said, two light coats of epoxy primer and it was a sheet of glass. You wouldn't have known I sanded it.
Larry
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