VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics


Go Back   VAF Forums > Main > RV General Discussion/News
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #11  
Old 01-26-2015, 12:27 PM
airguy's Avatar
airguy airguy is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,145
Default

I left the blue film on the parts only up to the point where I picked it up the first time to do something with it - as soon as I did the first operation (like match-drilling to another part) the film came off. If it sits too long (years versus months) it becomes very difficult to remove.

When you remove the film, write the part number on the part with a Sharpie, you'll need that later...
__________________
Greg Niehues - SEL, IFR, Repairman Cert.
Garden City, TX VAF 2020 dues paid
N16GN flying 700 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, 430W
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-26-2015, 02:01 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 5,297
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDBoston View Post
I am hardly a veteran, however this is one thing I am doing as well. What I have been doing is tearing away the blue film on the rivet lines rather than neatly using a soldering iron. That allows me to dimple and also rivet while preserving a little of the film to stop the inevitible scratching from the bench grindings and loose rivets that always seem to be there when you put the surface down on the bench.

After I finish the large piece (flap, etc) I just remove the remaining blue film. If you have ever seen a plane prepped for paint, it will make your scratches look like minor issues.

I also had an instructor when I took a sheet metal class (experienced guy) tell us to take the film off as well as he had seen problems with moisture and dust under it.
+1
I had corrossion where the prior owner left it on. I painted my plane and didn't use alodine. Instead, I sanded with 80 grit and used epoxy primer. Very little you could do that won't come out with 80 grit. Epoxy looked like a sheet of glass when laid down.

Larry
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-26-2015, 05:46 PM
Ron B. Ron B. is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yarmouth, Nova Scotia
Posts: 2,408
Default

Seems to me 80 grit would make deep scratches, is this standard grit for most?
__________________
Thanks Ron
RV-10 SOLD
RV-14 Flying
AirCam flying
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-26-2015, 06:08 PM
DragonflyAero DragonflyAero is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 173
Default

That Van's tape can peel of a layer of plywood!! Amazing stuff!!!!
__________________
Bill Vinson
RV-7 Standard Build
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index....r&project=2226
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-26-2015, 07:35 PM
Bill.Peyton's Avatar
Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 1,788
Default

Yikes! 80 grit. How about a maroon scotch bride pad instead
__________________
Bill Peyton
RV-10 - 1125 hrs
N37CP
First Flight Oct 2012
Aviation Partners, LLC
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 01-26-2015, 07:39 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,947
Default Maroon pad

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill.Peyton View Post
Yikes! 80 grit. How about a maroon scotch bride pad instead
That's what I use. Grey will work too on lighter spots. Shoot a little self etching primer on the spot till it's time to prime or paint.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 01-26-2015, 07:47 PM
engineerorange engineerorange is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Catawba, NC
Posts: 193
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DragonflyAero View Post
That Van's tape can peel of a layer of plywood!! Amazing stuff!!!!
We make that tape about an hour west of you. And yes, it is overkill.
__________________
mangling aluminum since May 2009
RV7-A, flying
RV8 under construction
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 01-26-2015, 07:55 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,435
Default

What is that tape?

Dave
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 01-26-2015, 08:12 PM
engineerorange engineerorange is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Catawba, NC
Posts: 193
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Paule View Post
What is that tape?

Dave
Co-extruded cloth duct tape. The particular tape van's uses is one of the more aggressive products in terms of tensile strength, tack and shear.
__________________
mangling aluminum since May 2009
RV7-A, flying
RV8 under construction
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 01-26-2015, 08:44 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 5,297
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron B. View Post
Seems to me 80 grit would make deep scratches, is this standard grit for most?
It is a pretty standard practice in automotive painting. While you can get the corrossion off with less grit the 80 gives a good tooth for primer. While you get chemical adhesion between coats, the grip between the paint and metal is mechanical. The deeper the scratches, the better the adhesion. The primer fills it in nicely then you sand the primer with finer grits if using base clear. Check out all of your chips on a base/clear paint job. They are usually between the base and the primer. This is because there is no chemical adhesion and the primer is usually sanded with 400 grit as the base can't fill the scratches like epoxy primer can.

Like I said, two light coats of epoxy primer and it was a sheet of glass. You wouldn't have known I sanded it.

Larry
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:02 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.