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  #21  
Old 01-16-2015, 08:17 PM
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ronschreck ronschreck is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
That wouldn't have any impact on whether it would seal well, but it will make it a bit more difficult to remove the cover (no space to tap a putty knife in between the cover and rib).
It's not too difficult to squeeze ALL of the proseal out and lose the seal. Lightly tighten the screws, just enough to get a uniform bead of proseal to squeeze out. Let it cure for a day then put another quarter turn on each screw.
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  #22  
Old 01-17-2015, 09:19 AM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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Haven't seen this obvious suggestion about draining the tank.

Open the hangar door.
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  #23  
Old 01-17-2015, 06:28 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by ronschreck View Post
It's not too difficult to squeeze ALL of the proseal out and lose the seal. Lightly tighten the screws, just enough to get a uniform bead of proseal to squeeze out. Let it cure for a day then put another quarter turn on each screw.
I disagree, and would bet that the majority of people that used tank sealant instead of the cork gasket, fully tightened the screws... there is not very many leaks when tank sealant is used.
It does make the cover or sender much harder to remove which is probably why a lot of people complain when they have to remove it after having used sealant.
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  #24  
Old 01-17-2015, 06:43 PM
Michael Burbidge Michael Burbidge is offline
 
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Default Step one complete

A local A&P that works on RVs a lot helped me remove the tank today. I did all the prep work and he removed the 21 bolts in about 45 minutes.



A small 1/4 inch drive air rachet made most of the bolts easy to remove. We didn't even remove the aileron push tube. We simply disconnected it at the outboard end.

When I removed the bottom skin screws last night, several of them had blue fuel die on them. So I was fully expecting that there were places on the back baffle that were leaking also. But after removing the tank it looks like the leaking fuel from the cover plate was wicking most of the way up the bottom aft edge of the tank. Weird.

Michael-
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  #25  
Old 01-24-2015, 09:34 PM
C. Brenden C. Brenden is offline
 
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Default ProSeal on Fuel Drain threads

I need to drain the fuel on a friends RV. I was planning on pulling the drain plugs and screw in a fitting with a hose. The owner advised me he put some ProSeal on the threads to ensure they wouldn't leak. Knowing how tough ProSeal is, do you think I'll have any problem removing the drains? Any one come across something similar?
I plan to re-install the drains with FuelLube.
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  #26  
Old 01-25-2015, 06:07 AM
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Dbro172 Dbro172 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C. Brenden View Post
I need to drain the fuel on a friends RV. I was planning on pulling the drain plugs and screw in a fitting with a hose. The owner advised me he put some ProSeal on the threads to ensure they wouldn't leak. Knowing how tough ProSeal is, do you think I'll have any problem removing the drains? Any one come across something similar?
I plan to re-install the drains with FuelLube.
Easy to get a socket on those. Should come off easy, proseal is non skinning, sort of like caulking, not hard like epoxy.
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  #27  
Old 01-25-2015, 06:55 AM
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Walt Walt is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C. Brenden View Post
I need to drain the fuel on a friends RV. I was planning on pulling the drain plugs and screw in a fitting with a hose. The owner advised me he put some ProSeal on the threads to ensure they wouldn't leak. Knowing how tough ProSeal is, do you think I'll have any problem removing the drains? Any one come across something similar?
I plan to re-install the drains with FuelLube.
Proseal and Fuel Lube (EZ Turn) are not for pipe thread sealing.

There are a number of different pipe thread sealants that work well, my preference is Titeseal.
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Last edited by Walt : 01-25-2015 at 10:02 AM.
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  #28  
Old 01-25-2015, 08:18 AM
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johngoodman johngoodman is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C. Brenden View Post
I need to drain the fuel on a friends RV. I was planning on pulling the drain plugs and screw in a fitting with a hose. The owner advised me he put some ProSeal on the threads to ensure they wouldn't leak. Knowing how tough ProSeal is, do you think I'll have any problem removing the drains? Any one come across something similar?
I plan to re-install the drains with FuelLube.
Using ProSeal sounds strange. Since the fuel drains have a rubber seal, you need a way to easily replace the seal. In fact, I always carry extra seals - and a new drain ready to go - in my tool kit.

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  #29  
Old 01-25-2015, 08:32 AM
C. Brenden C. Brenden is offline
 
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Default Best sealant on drains? Titeseal, EZ Turn ??

When I re install the drains is Titeseal the best product? Or have you used EZ Turn Lubricant? Here is what the description says of EZ Turn: EZ Turn is a specialty lubricant/sealant used for fuel and oil line valves & is resistant to high temps. Especially effective where high octane fuels and aromatics are present. EZ Turn is also extremely efficient as a gasket paste & anti- seize agent. EZ Turn will not gum, crack or dry out. Each shipment is independently tested. Excellent for tapered plug valves, aircraft engine manufacturing, and marine applications. EZ Turn is the functional equivalent of fuel lube.
Here is a description of TiteSeal:Prevents corrosion and seizing of metal parts. Assures leakproof, pressure tight connections. Unaffected by water, oil, gasoline.

It does seem that Titeseal may be the best choice but have never used it.
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  #30  
Old 01-25-2015, 08:52 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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Location: Pocahontas MS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C. Brenden View Post
I need to drain the fuel on a friends RV. I was planning on pulling the drain plugs and screw in a fitting with a hose. The owner advised me he put some ProSeal on the threads to ensure they wouldn't leak. Knowing how tough ProSeal is, do you think I'll have any problem removing the drains? Any one come across something similar?
I plan to re-install the drains with FuelLube.
If all you're doing is draining the tanks, I don't see any reason to use sealant on the temporary fitting. There will be far more fuel vapor from your storage container than from any slight seeping at the fitting. FWIW...
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