What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

RV-7 N117TR

Thanks Kurt, hopefully the Wx will cooperate!

I did find several places that needed some more silicone on my baffling around the top engine mount bolts and on the case inboard of the oil cooler.

It doesn't take much pressure to push the metal baffling around the rocker covers out to create a leak because of the limited screws holding it to the head. I loosened them up and put a bead of silicone around each head to seal any potential gaps. My initial results are inconclusive so far, temps seem to be running about the same, any benefits are masked by different ambient temps etc. I was expecting 5-10 degree improvement, we'll see.
DB7775DF-BAB9-4859-948B-687361B44195_zpsvfzzzj2s.jpg
 
My experience with the magic shrinking air filter, this was after 31 hours tach time. You can see the sharpie marks of the original filter size on the bottom of the FAB. I've got an email out to K&N now, we'll see what their response is.
544B466F-3A00-4F36-BE93-F36B1074571F_zpspsixzasn.jpg

3F6FAE55-84DA-429E-8867-D0BAD19E073E_zpsmoqwvcmi.jpg


New filter:
3622CF7B-7310-4878-914D-B909E67C9AEE_zpsqetrzvno.jpg


No cracks on the Carb to Fab plate but my .032 angle brace did crack and break, I make a new foot out of .063. We'll see what happens, probably break the topside now. I'm thinking there's a wholelota shakin going on down here.
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums...E-33D9-476C-8A93-8526C18D31E0_zpsq3jhubzz.jpg
29D175B0-FDA6-41FF-A778-BBA0A1CF2914_zps00d2eswq.jpg


Found something new in 3 hours since the last time the cowl was off, pretty sure I didn't miss it at the oil change. The clamps didn't seem too tight, I loosened the clamps and repositioned the muff on the end pieces. We'll see how she holds.
238D39E2-0162-45F0-84B0-2B059183B971_zpsav92fgr6.jpg


I put some packing tape along the rub line of the baffling material on the bottom of the top cowl. I found that my baffle material was sealing well except where the material overlapped it wasn't contacting the cowling for about 1/4 inch because of the doubled up material. I put a dab of RTV to hopefully fill the gap and smooth the transition at the seams, I put on the top cowling and let the RTV skin over about 45 minutes. Then I went flying to hopefully squish things in place. We'll see next time I pull the cowl.
4ADBC0BF-C727-4FAE-82FC-CCE4ED0DA863_zpsw1l6lv4h.jpg

D0EA5074-67EF-4E70-A78D-67FBBBB2DC86_zpskuhksdrm.jpg


I also cut 1/4 inch off the cowling exit, initial test show slightly cooler but need more flights to know for sure.
E74B23BC-1894-4151-84DF-B427EFD3A623_zpsyhwqdk0t.jpg
 
Last edited:
Installed Saber Manufacturing's heaviest crush plate, I lost my note but if I remember correctly it weighed 19 lbs 4 oz. The 7 inch bolts were about 1 ounce more than the 6 inch bolts. The original crush plate was about 20 oz, so somewhere around 18 lbs 6 oz on the nose more than the standard crush plate. Defenitely changed the flying characteristics, a little more nose heavy than I'ld like it solo but will probably be much nicer when flying with 2 aboard.

C3B260D2-12DF-4566-B283-37353C859BAD_zpshrawnlch.jpg


I computed the theoretical new empty W&B, but I want to verify the new W&B with the "real" empty airplane. I only have 3 five gallon gas cans so I had to (twist my arm) burn about 4 gallons of gas checking out the local grass strips.
13C163DE-1179-4B77-957B-BEF8DB5059B3_zpsjl2ni6ax.jpg


Good news is my fuel guages are accurate in flight, fuel flow/totalizer is accurate with 100LL. With Mogas my fuel flow/totalizer will show about 25-30% than it actually burns. I'm glad I made the fuel drain valve for my draining my tanks.
12F1E97A-22AE-4526-B852-94C9FFFB7E48_zps2kx6h3uo.jpg


My left fuel drain didn't drip but was always moist with fuel, extended sumping of fuel didn't fix it so I thought I needed a new o-ring. Turns out it had some red fuzz wrapped around the o-ring, same red fuzz I found in my fuel filter. I believe this fuzz was leftover from red shop rags used to clean up the inside of the tank after I did the fuel pickup service bulletin.
A98140A3-3023-4674-ABDC-AE13EA40BAFD_zps2mfov3pc.jpg


I used a cleco clamp to hold it open to clean the quick drain.
25C281EC-ADED-4522-9238-F140239802A2_zps6jskgyod.jpg
 
All that weight really adds up, I started at 1038 lbs and ended up at 1079 after the landoll ring/heavy crush plate/gear fairings/portable radio and intercom. My new CG is 79.77, with 180 lb me and a 200 lb aerobatic instructor and zero gas the CG is 84.38. Whew just inside the aft aerobatic limit of 84.5, 23.5 gallons of gas puts me right at the aerobatic gross limit of 1600 lbs and moves the CG to 83.99.
Since the tanks were empty it was a good time to calibrate the fuel gauges for the ground on the G3X, now my gauges should read correctly in the air and on the ground. I also noted how many gallons per inch in the tanks for a dipstick type gauge.
My wife suggested we fly to lunch (YES!!!!), so we checked out Kingsley field's Hangar Kafe (MO9) halfway between Joplin and Springfield Missouri. Great food stop and great prices!
0DB7EC1D-536C-4FE4-93DA-B40FD731C8D7_zpsbikqthsz.jpg

B3E843C8-6FB0-48B0-9D0E-3C75CA9A40DB_zpsysxouk7m.jpg


Mr. Kingsley seems to be a Minneapolis Moline fan and one was mowing when we arrived.
DBDD591B-B19D-446E-A4C5-829F1BB0E37A_zpsvsdpsiyp.jpg


I got some screen shots running LOP, but left the cards in the airplane. Hope to post them soon.
 
LOP screen shot from the other day, with the throttle pulled back my EGT/CHT spreads really even out. 8000 feet density altitude, around 85 F on the ground. 50-80 * LOP, my EGT's peak right about 1450. With the increased OAT's I haven't noticed the decreased CHT's of 330 I was seeing at 40* OAT.
20140507_120653_zpsb1e02d4c.png


With the mid 80's my CHT's/oil temp has been on the rise. I believe I did a decent job at sealing with the baffles etc, any tweaks I've done to the baffle sealing didn't show any noticeable difference. Thanks to others on VAF I decided to make a cowling exit bump/ramp.
Stock exit.
05A0654C-0DB8-40A6-8007-093D603E235D_zpspdnylhvz.jpg


I used poster board to make a template, and used an old oil field pipe to shape a curve into the .017 stainless.
B5CBD277-D094-46AF-A3E0-55C7DEF550A6_zpsautyif5f.jpg


A small break in the top to match the angle of the engine mount about finishes it off.
57C0F851-D667-4F29-8862-AD60C953DBD8_zpsruxe8atl.jpg

EFD65C5C-00F2-4986-8148-4690781BAC3B_zpslykiqi8y.jpg


A strip of .063 holds it together at the top with nutplates and a couple of adel clamps.
22563DB4-11AA-4D21-909F-19583E336158_zpsw9o3jcp3.jpg


A peek from underneath, I think the exit is actually smaller but way smoother. You can see the flap of baffle material I used to seal the space between my exit ramp and the engine control cables.
2967D2AE-8A8E-4C56-B7C0-200E1E4C99A0_zpstmrfm03r.jpg
 
Last edited:
First test flights with the exit ramp are very encouraging, OAT's were down to the mid 50's but I was seeing much cooler CHT's than before. Taxi operations seem to be 40-50* cooler. I had numerous shutdown/startups today, usually I see 410 on #4 CHT on a heat soaked climbout at 125 IAS. #4 cylinder is my leanest cylinder by at least 100 *F EGT, all my other cylinders were cooler as well from 350-375ish on the heat soaked climbout. I also had my first aerobatic lesson today, 4000-6000 density altitiude around 75 ish% power with CHT's from 326-375 and oil temps 170-180's. I consistently saw 210-230* CHT's after landing, I've never seen them that low.
I did notice a deeper exhaust sound and some vibration in the floor after adding the ramp. Not sure if it's the ramp or positioning the exhaust stacks after adding the ramp.
I plan on extending the stainless steel aft on the belly and extending the exit of the cowl to semi-match the slipstream flow as depicted from the -G testing done previously.
401142FE-CC3B-48F9-8923-DB4A216CB14D_zpsbzl45mvs.jpg
 
I met a great bunch of guys at K81 for lunch today, my aerobatic instructor was breaking-in the new 90 on this Luscombe. 11-13 inches of manifold pressure and 95 knts IAS seemed to work well, until we had to descend to pattern altitude than I was at idle.
E7CCC330-5156-4DA5-B3FD-940BAE3C24BB_zpsr7fyw5w3.jpg


My RV next to his Pitts nestled in the hangar.
F9529734-B0A5-4807-8CB6-A461A0376269_zpsipfoeaxa.jpg


I have to say the first aerobatic lesson was right up there with the first flight in my RV. First he wanted to see my aileron rolls, then he took the controls for a loop. My head was spinning for 30 seconds after the first loop, after verbal cues where to look and feeling the pressures on the stick/pedals on the second one I was hooked! Next was barrel rolls, my favorite maneuver so far! He also introduced cloverleafs and humptybumps and several other manuevers I've forgotten.

After I made a pit stop at OWI I went back up to practice loops and barrel rolls, both my instructor said I should practice solo before our next lesson. Long way to go but it's so much fun, what an airplane!
 
Finally back to more airplane stuff, I've been posting my cowling exit ramp/bump on this post.

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=112941&page=6&highlight=exit+bump

2nd try on my upper intersection fairings, I tried the expensive frog tape to make the tape removal easier. I projected the trailing edge of the gear leg fairing onto the belly skin, I measured that point reference the stiffeners to place the aft radius.
396F9729-473E-4F68-BB10-65EE2C12B263_zpscecvqw2v.jpg


I used RTV to glue some 1/4" inch foam to both sides of my .063 aluminum radius pieces. I then RTV'ed and taped the pieces in place behind the gear leg fairings. The first time I just taped the .063 aluminum in place but it moved as I was forming the clay. I'm thinking I can easily sand the foam at the edges and the extra surface area and RTV should hold them in place. The clay should cover most of the foam and RTV.
99EFA9CF-2A2A-41DC-9394-F00DCBB78609_zpsp2xe4sas.jpg

055472FD-7E73-4243-9147-DAD425E44B8E_zpsvtzr82wx.jpg
 
A little sanding on the foam and 3 hours of smushing clay yielded my shape, I tried to make the frontal area slightly smaller and sharper (instead of curvy). The front curve follows the leading edge of the gearleg fairing higher than before. The trailing edge is slightly longer.
845F7E15-F8E1-45E3-AB74-D6BCA047F76B_zpsl429pfgs.jpg

1B961DC9-1F04-4F28-BEF4-505A51E9C458_zpsxxvujpjm.jpg


I sprayed a layer of paint over the clay for a smooth surface to apply wax to, I ended up putting packing tape over the clay and then wax. Last time I used nothing and the clay was semi embedded in the fiberglass.
7A844B67-1BC3-4B0A-88C3-DCF6EFF54F20_zpsywwomja8.jpg


New glass.
81295770-BE3E-418E-BD3C-714FD5BBE462_zpsqvfortjy.jpg

8B0138D6-8D80-4F6C-9703-15BE2A21B5B7_zpscrvznddo.jpg


I redesigned the split line for fairing removal. I made the split line under the fuse and aft of the gear leg fairing trailing edge so no split line is seen from the top and the aft curve is solid. I left a piece of plastic between the split line for removal after it cured.
8B0138D6-8D80-4F6C-9703-15BE2A21B5B7_zpscrvznddo.jpg

05217F1C-4267-4B6F-88B8-D8CAD527B4AD_zpswogwgwqu.jpg


I hate spending hours removing the packing tape from the airplane so I tried frog tape as the base layer before the clay and packing tape. Worked very well, stuck well and removed very easy with little to no residue. It was expensive $10 for the big roll but it's like paying myself $5/hr to remove residue.
 
Family, work, Oshkosh = busy busy busy!

I was able to finish pinhole filling, priming and reattaching the wheel fairings several days ago. I think my sanding gets a little too anal and I broke through the epoxy cost ting I a few places and still have a few pinholes. Oh well, practice makes perfect.

Lower transition fairings faired into the pants, I still have to massage a paint gap but getting closer.
451CB507-F810-4BAA-BF6D-7244AECDF7EA_zpsdtckr7of.jpg

74A98E04-A671-485A-8817-149985807251_zps1fjcy1xp.jpg


I added a screw to the aft upper intersection fairings by drilling and tapping the lower fuse and stringer.
E29FC8A4-02CF-4D7B-A822-E55BB82160E6_zps5p6qh9s6.jpg

F17A9B5F-DD4B-4FE0-880A-E620AF9C8EBF_zpse0nfxasb.jpg
 
The oil quick drain into a bottle once again yielded a mess free oil change, I also managed to remove the oil filter and oil screen almost mess free as well.
I cut a plastic cup at an angle to catch the oil from the filter, worked well until I was removing the full cup and managed to drip some into the battery box.
EC47EF10-C8B0-41D2-805C-01F258148308_zpsdak4fdsu.jpg

2B20F6E8-5335-4692-88B1-CEF1B9FF3720_zpsroqzkuok.jpg

For the oil screen I stuck a gallon plastic baggie between the sump and the control bracket to catch the oil.
308EE1E4-CBE6-4873-8FB5-9D080C634120_zpspzajvmnv.jpg

I also found a crack on the baffling on the wrap around cylinder #4.
7CE3D2C1-5F73-40FC-A833-0FAC7A0C1983_zpsyltkyeb2.jpg
 
When I change my oil filter, I put an empty plastic oil bottle that I cut lengthwise under the filter. It is pretty wide and flat and fits under the filter well. I use baby diapers under the filter to catch any drips. They are very absorbent.

I have also tried punching a small hole at the top back of the filter with a Phillips screwdriver, then rotate the filter 1/2 turn and let it drain into my bottle half. The effect is to move the drain point from near the gasket to the back of the filter.

Just a tip that works for me.
 
Form a funnel

I think it was originally designed by an rv'er but it's one of the simplest and best things I've ever brought.

http://www.formafunnel.com

Catches every drop. I just put a container somewhere near and drain everything from the filter straight into it.

Peter
 
I use a 1.5x1.5" hardware store Al angle squashed at one end.
Squashed end sits under the filter.
Loosen filter, go do some other jobs (new oil, clean belly, etc)
20mins later just unscrew filter. Not a drop!

r6x08h.jpg


2ut23yr.jpg


Took a few changes to perfect. But it's a reliably clean process now
 
My tailwheel yoke has been a tad wobbly on the tail spring, I pulled out the 2 bolts and found them bent/stretched. I tried a roll pin but it didn't take out the slop, looks like I'll be putting in the tapered pins as others have done. In the meantime I just used new bolts. Pics don't do it justice but the bolts are definitely working towards shearing off.
FC4F7F7E-7D3C-47E9-88A4-972395303D3E_zpsit4pwhx9.jpg

28141E31-FFCE-4DBC-B46D-0629208F5E11_zpsqyipqylx.jpg
 
It's been awhile, too busy flying 95.9 hours last year I suppose! I was lucky enough to burn a few more gallons out of the tanks on 12/31 for my last flight of the year, time for a condition inspection and avionics upgrade. Here's the "radio" stack I've been using for a year, it actually worked very well hardwired to ships power and antenna.
4FD258CB-112C-41E6-AE50-3BF38AAB823E_zpsogsae0ed.jpg


This was my first choice in positioning the stack,
GTR200/400W/GMC305.
301F807D-C18F-4B8E-A5B0-19F8C42F0652_zpstwki14ht.jpg


I planned on lining the top of the stack with the top of the G3X screens.
82D43137-9735-47E9-8A0B-80051CCEA49F_zpsnnt5upkh.jpg


A quick poll on Facebook and VAF quickly revealed the preferred spot for the auto pilot was actually on top of the stack. I've rarely flown behind a decent autopilot, especially that wasn't on a shotgun panel.....so I'm going to heed the advice of others and place it up top. I'm still planning on matching the top of the G3X screens even though it waste about an inch or so of height.
D13E5D21-1C8E-4BD7-AF97-64EC3345C42A_zpsvtaxzml1.jpg


I'm planning on mounting the GAD29 next to the GSU25.
ED63C21A-8852-4027-B006-EF3E4E7F0196_zpsko6ls4na.jpg
 
Autopilot up top it is, I've got the cut-out done now to add some bracing to tie it into the existing panel and nutplates.
4F660950-C1C7-4B6E-AD86-25DFAD041568_zps0eig7m4q.jpg

32016125-D205-4817-AB59-7E87FA5E8450_zpsvza9e8wl.jpg
 
I clamped a scrap angle to my face plate so I could file it to size and end up square.
DAA9B410-E8B2-4E4A-83F6-43BE51FC3F6D_zpsh1guefbg.jpg

4F1CFEA8-27E8-4E5A-A28B-A5842A83E4CD_zpsmhodbe8m.jpg

4E3E2703-6F28-4CF7-A066-D118D1FEF9E3_zpsi0frtdkv.jpg


It took right at 3 hours to make/drill/countersunk some mounting ears on the face plate, man I'm slow. No wonder I need to double my estimated build time and add 10%.
D684559A-8631-47AB-8F3C-5338BE1A54C9_zps8sqortiy.jpg
 
GMC305 mounted in the rack, the panel on each side of the rack will overlay the "ears" securing the GMC305. I happened to see a friend's RV10 plans opened to the panel page the other day, pretty much sums up how I made my panel (man I wish I had seen that sooner!).
87FB99F7-30D0-4439-9C58-967B6221B9EF_zpspzbtqupf.jpg


I ended up drilling another set of holes at the top of the "ears" on the GMC305 added a cleco and removed the 2 vertical angles from the panel. I can now dream up how I'm going to attatch the GTR200/400W in the relative comfort of the house. 12 OAT makes for a cold hangar!
 
I flattened the bumps on the bottom of the GTR200 tray, they were interferring with the bumps on the top of the GTN400W. They now have about an even 3/32 gap between the faces of the radios.
E3FD4197-0ABC-45F3-9A93-5C3C9436FC64_zps3y5fnaul.jpg


When I originally built the panel (several years ago without any trays) I didn't want to under size it and added a little wiggle room. I took up the wiggle room with a .020 shim on the left side of the stack. You can also see a .063 shim temporarily installed between the GMC305 and the GTR200.
CF05B931-36B5-446A-82EF-E287A26F0679_zpschxhlykz.jpg


I'm trying to keep the front faces of the radios flush, because they are all different depths they are inset in the panel deeper than I originally planned. I should have used a larger angle, perhaps a 3/4x1.25 instead of 3/4x3/4. I'm adding some scrap material to the back of my angles so I can screw the radio racks to them.
B325A3FC-E325-47FD-BEC9-E8AC59AE0C42_zps4vn8ufua.jpg

48DFF488-99CC-4DBB-BEC0-D84A21A991A0_zps0aq2mhm7.jpg
 
Well...trying to measure 3 or 4 times, marking and drill as best I could on the kitchen table left my radio stack slightly wonky.

67DEC656-CEAA-430D-9D5E-CA619D6915E8_zpsgfniao1i.jpg


Jed at Steinair suggested taping the racks together, this helped (A LOT) to keep things from sliding around etc.

C30C488A-968E-43D7-9DDF-035E6E1F2F34_zpsvffxiq9h.jpg


I re-made the panel angles out of some .063 1x1, everything is getting drilled in assembly this time. The "tabs" on the side of the GMC305 as well as the .063 on the front of the angles are just spacers and supports for the panel.

3FC5A012-92ED-4990-88B1-8E5484CBA8D9_zpsaucqig4k.jpg


Everything seems to fit pretty well at this point, the GTR200 and 400W are somewhat set into the panel and match the bezel thickness of the GMC305. You can see the .063 spacer between the GTR200 and the GMC305 to set the horizontal gap. There is a slight gap on each side of the stack above and below the radios, this isn't as noticeable when everything is closed up. I may paint the structure underneath black to help hide it.

7092C7BC-4E20-435E-9E5D-EC601A23AAA0_zpslqgreskn.jpg

B8CE88FF-B224-44B8-916A-DEA8A680B523_zpswjs8i6ew.jpg


I tried using a drill stop to help center the holes on the racks, the curved face nestles well into the countersink. It worked OK but I ended up just marking the holes that way, I'm going to remove the angles to finish drilling.

DA692DB3-A887-42C0-9866-3B94036A6479_zps6exvvlin.jpg

CF3E81EE-0E87-4108-903E-B276C8199611_zpss1wfev0h.jpg
 
Last edited:
The GTX23 ES comes with a stand alone rack that is a tad thicker than the standard racks. I had trouble finding a spot up front for the transponder that would also let me slide the box out if needed. I ended up ordering the optional "modular" rack for the transponder so I could fit it in the radio stack behind the autopilot. I cut the front tabs off the modular tray to fit my installation.

F80BBA47-A129-4143-B248-1C2D54B8310B_zpspmcmq4pa.jpg

47290380-BD04-437A-8DE2-315F7648D198_zps3eizzi5s.jpg


Here's the racks with a piece of .063 supporting them in the back. I riveted them (upside down first :(, drilled out the -3 rivets and used -4 when I put them on right) onto the 400W tray, used the rear screw hole of the GTR200 and the front screws of the remote transponder. The GTX23 ES fits behind the autopilot in my stack.
6507592D-5F5E-4BFA-9E34-F15950F8CEFF_zpslmqwsn4y.jpg


I used the middle screw holes on the transponder tray to the subpanel angles and drilled new #6 holes through the 400W tray and the subpanel angles to support the back of the stack. It's very solid and I'm happy how it turned out.

B8A76DB2-739F-4755-ACEB-B5070F80B2CF_zpscbzwoy0t.jpg

606DA83E-602B-4A0C-AAC0-DB31D1B342C5_zps5eghelmp.jpg


A trial fit of the panel, very happy with how the second try turned out. Everything fits from the front of the panel nicely and is flush and even. I was even able to use the original pieces without re-painting.

A888DCF2-AF53-4C2A-9021-D8E7B6849336_zpssx6tcfxp.jpg

2F8CF52E-54EC-40C6-8D99-4BD0B567A36B_zpsdzrclqdn.jpg

31294FA7-98C7-43A1-92BE-23C2C6FD196D_zpsjwm7hz9c.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hello Andy,

That is very clever indeed mounting the GTX23ES behind the GMC305 autopilot control panel which is very shallow. I hadn't seen that done before.

This is some upgrade you are doing with the addition of IFR navigation and full 2020 ADS-B Out compliance!

We look forward to seeing your 1090ES flight ID showing up in the KC area!

Thanks for sharing,
Steve
 
PennyPie--Hey Dad, watcha doing?
Me--Crawling under the panel to find a spot to mount my GDL39R, man I wish I was your size!
E7AE7621-058B-46E5-98F2-0D0C2FBF67CC_zpsjedzjrnm.jpg


PennyPie--Oh that's cool. I'm going to drink my milk and wiggle this thing while you keep making funny noises.....
CD8DD039-3788-4CC3-9F86-B030B2465DD7_zps4y8gn0ry.jpg


I made a plate to go between two of the forward ribs to mount the GDL39R, now the hard part of installing nutplates on the ribs...

Man these dsub hi-density pins are small, here's a couple next to a toothpick. Several hours piddling with these and I'm feeling cross-eyed.
E8366B41-9A6A-4CB1-98FB-43D8E663DCF4_zps5sujq9ma.jpg


GTX23ES connector done, I kinda took over the dining room table. The wife said I'm a dead man if the soldering iron or solder ever touches the table.
AD8DFDB4-CC6E-455E-A563-20D1EBC58BBE_zpsnr37a1kk.jpg

1420F590-5B59-4F43-A9FC-73BBBCCCAEC9_zps8vspthng.jpg
 
If you're excited your vacation day was approved so you can hit the 23* hangar early in the a.m. And work on your airplane all day.....you might be an RV builder.
A friend messaged me about the backplate of the GTR200 not fitting in my current setup, he was right (I overlooked it). The backplate of the GTR200 has a tab that must stick out past the rack while the tab on the other side is fitted into the rack, my rear supporting angles didn't allow this. Nothing that a sharpie, dremel and and several files can't fix.
D94E94A4-6669-4B7C-A9C6-3B54D2F8494E_zpsipgegvru.jpg

848A5196-9296-45D7-B030-2587203FA2E0_zpsegedfxd2.jpg

BDB4EFD1-75B2-4E1A-95B7-E9660D9F895C_zpsnfmonvah.jpg


I'm ashamed of how many hours I have in this flat mounting plate and the associated nutplates to support the GDL39R under the forward panel. My physical agility from the repetitive under the panel to the toolbox and back maneuver is on the upswing.
E4A9FA15-B043-4134-94FC-6C8A319AF947_zpsgtpfrwgv.jpg

622A323F-8CD3-4897-B739-EBB6FB788244_zpskj1infj9.jpg


I did a decent job drilling out the rivets where the GSA28 pitch servo goes, the bracket fit very well. I didn't have the actual servo at the hangar, I want to test fit the complete assembly before I drill any holes.
5ED5743F-033D-4E8C-801B-EB02D727388A_zpsysiyytpz.jpg
 
Last edited:
I got the pitch servo loosely mounted, the top of the little cutout is flush with the top of the floor rib/angle.

9FCE97E8-22FB-4AA5-A259-AB5FBF716455_zpspwxfuto6.jpg


A457DC1F-2946-4F4B-936A-3B357477BC35_zpsail1l1vf.jpg
 
Hours of wiring, about 35 connections closer to being done......everything I've ever heard about working underneath the panel is true!
B5EB474A-E462-4868-B70C-C3D9F1FBDC00_zpsnahyg3lg.jpg
 
Hours of wiring, about 35 connections closer to being done......everything I've ever heard about working underneath the panel is true!
B5EB474A-E462-4868-B70C-C3D9F1FBDC00_zpsnahyg3lg.jpg

I feel you with the panel ...... doing exactly the same thing myself at the moment

Who needs Yoga classes anyway ?.
 
Have yet to do the panel dive, but I'm rounding up all available throw pillows, spare blankets, bubble wrap, whatever for the inevitable!. Looks like you've got the padding covered. :)
 
Have yet to do the panel dive, but I'm rounding up all available throw pillows, spare blankets, bubble wrap, whatever for the inevitable!. Looks like you've got the padding covered. :)

I used to have trashbags full of bubblewrap for crawling into the tail I've since thrown away. A trip to the local GoodWill netted me an array of "colorful" blankets/pillows that serve multiple uses in the hangar for cheap!
 
I was able to run the wires out to the roll servo this morning, my "Supervisor" was eating a cookie and watching.

03209F11-56F8-4FF0-BFD4-5F7A641191B9_zpszgtac4qo.jpg


I couldn't decide wether to put my backup MidContinent SAM on the pilot or copilot side. If it's ever really needed it would be much better on the pilot side, but I kinda wanted something for the copilot to see and play with. I finally realized if I put it next to the G3X PFD it would leave plenty of room on the copilot side to mount an IPad. The mount for the SAM used 6 #4 screws, I couldn't get them fit quite right so I drilled them out to #30 and used flush rivets.

25D15EA4-B58B-49B2-A889-72DD3C17134A_zpsyyyqzdso.jpg


6783874A-A69C-4B29-9DF4-5E0B6A97566C_zpst8g17p2d.jpg


The SAM is way deeper than the GDU370's, trial fits worked but that was without the pitot-static and Dsub connector.

0CE84DF6-2F10-4F0E-9E01-C963A8CB1EE7_zpsrrxhjrvy.jpg
 
Dorsal Fin

I don't think I ever noticed a dorsal fin on a C-140 before...:cool:

Warning: Thread creep :rolleyes:

I have seen this on a couple of other airplanes. Found this written on the 120/140 site a while back. Who knew? :cool: I think it makes them look like a little 170.

It is in the type certificate data sheet for the 120 and 140.
*608. Installation of dorsal fin in
accordance with Consolidated 2 lbs. (+149)
Aircraft Repair, Inc.,
Ft. Wayne, Indiana,
drawing entitled "Dorsal Fin, Increased
Effective Area of Fin is 0.61 Sq. Ft.,
Aircraft Modification to Improve
Directional Stability."
 
I forgot to mention I removed my carb (MA4-5 10-3878--H) and sent it in to Marvel Schebler to richen it up a tad. It was acceptable but my idle mixture screw was set at 4 turns out and had a barely noticeable rpm rise (10-15) at idle cutoff, in addition when I had the power full out like on downwind and I added a slow small amount of throttle the engine would fall off (not a stutter) as it went from the idle circuit to the main jet. At full power and 2000 MSL my leanest cylinder at full rich was about 80* ROP in the cooler (15* F) temps, warmer temps it was about 150-200 ROP at full rich. 9500 MSL Full rich to best power leaning only gained 10 RP m. I was thinking about drilling the main jet out as discussed on VAF, but I was still within the 2 year warranty.
I have nothing but great things to say about the customer experience with the Marvel Schebler guys, highly recommended. My carb flowed within the factory tolerances, but they were able to richen the idle and main jet circuits. I need to get the specifics on how much it was enriched. Apparently the bolts I used to hold the airbox to the carb were slightly too long and my bowl was cracked, $180 mistake on my part. I suppose the condition inspection is a good time to find these sort of things.
 
So I thought I left a rediculosly long pigtail for the roll servo, come to fine out it was about 8 inches too short :(. I thought about an adel clamp here and there but the best solution was too add onto the wires. The additional length let me run the wires through the rib into the bay past the servo/bellcrank then back through the rib to the connection on top of the servo. Once connected I pulled the excess wire into a service loop in the bay inboard of the servo/bellcrank. The bay with the servo/bellcrank is free from wobbly wires waiting to tangle things up. Here's a pic after I spliced the wires, touching the floor and curling back up 8 inches was about right...
7C0AAAF8-7067-455E-B660-F4DB714FD650_zpsu0q1byiv.jpg


Here's the roll servo, you can see the wiring in the outboard bay where it comes back through the front of the rib.
AD791E57-20B6-45AC-A59E-86BDF7648F0F_zpsallefqpq.jpg


I moved the pushrod to the outermost hole of the pitch servo, the geometry looks better (not able to go over center) and the secondary stop bracket fits.
5C6E5646-D671-478F-B2E8-3212D9E4606E_zpsymkcg5ag.jpg


GNS400W antenna mount took me several hours, finally the top aft skin wasn't looking like a bad place after all. I also ran some extra wires for a temp probe and cowl flap when I get more time.
26161CDC-A1B3-4594-9DEF-8F682DA8B643_zpsqtacfmcw.jpg


I double checked the power/ground pins on all the connectors then I installed the boxes and cleaned up my mess and tools from a couple weeks work. Hoping for a smoke free test tomorrow!
 
I feel your pain on the too-short wires. There were a couple of times wiring the panel when I thought I had plenty of slack, only to come up short when everything was secured and bundled. The upside is that I'm an excellent splicer. :)
 
Success, as in not everything worked right away but I didn't smoke anything! I really don't like where I put the autopilot toggle switch right below the 400W next to the flap switch, it REALLY sticks out in a bad way. I think I'm going to move it to the bottom rail to the right of the Alt Air. Now what can I use to cover the 7/16 hole.....

29BC6BA0-CA1C-4ECD-ADE0-8F614DBF011D_zpsp1obhbfo.jpg


Lots of "Configuration Mode" later the SAM was right side up with airspeed markings and the Garmin LRU's boxes all had a green check marks. I couldn't get past the trim/pitch servo check, the servo was blinking a green light but the trim was dead. As I was playing with the GTR200 the trim came alive and went full nose down by itself. A double check of the connector revealed a broken wire on the switch connector at the panel, more into why the wire broke after I dig it out. I'm glad to have found this on the ground otherwise I would be doing a landing with full nose down trim!

Since it was a balmy 49 degrees today and temps in the teens for the rest of the week I thought it was a good chance to move outside to drain the remaining fuel and check the GPS signal (good signal so far) I'm using Walt's condition inspection checklist (http://www.vansairforce.com/communi...3045&highlight=Condition+inspection+checklist) and thought I could do the fuel flow check while pumping out the last 7 gallons of fuel so the fuel system will be ready for the new weight and balance. First I cleaned the 85 micron fuel filter inline after the fuel selector before the electric pump. I found small pebbles of proseal along with some more fuzz from a red shop rag. From an earlier post I found the same fuzz in a leaky quick drain about 70-80 hours ago and checked the filter and found it about the same. The ring in the pic is the fuzz, it looks worse in the pic than it was. All of this working in a cold hangar is really drying my hands out!

8CFACA1A-2163-47E5-AD85-1F4EF6B4F329_zpsphavk0yz.jpg


I setup a ground system very close to the one DanH recommended (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=121685&highlight=Drain+fuel+ground), I used an extension cord's ground lug clamped to the hangar track with the other end clamped to the engine and dangled the wire from the engine/extension cord ground into the bottom of the gas can. Probably overkill but I also re verified the accuracy of my fuel gauges (Stewart Warner resistive) to within a 1/2 gallon and the 4 gallons in the gas tank after 10 minutes roughly matched the 22-24 GPH shown on the EFIS.

The GTR200 seemed to work great, no static or feedback from all the switches on except the engine and great clear sound over the intercomm. Radio checks with the local ground radio as well as in the air 20 miles away came back 5X5 on transmit and receive. I have yet to pull the manual out and officially set everything up.

Thanks to McDoogle I got to finish the day with a rejuvenating flight around the patch, I really like these RV's and RV builders!
 
Last edited:
I feel your pain on the too-short wires. There were a couple of times wiring the panel when I thought I had plenty of slack, only to come up short when everything was secured and bundled. The upside is that I'm an excellent splicer. :)

I'm getting quite proficient as well! My worst shortage was the main artery from the center tunnel to the firewall, I ended up cutting and riveting on a 45 degree junction between the tunnel cover and firewall to fit my wire bundle.
 
I moved the autopilot switch to the right of my alternate air, I wired it to my main bus so the master switch will be my alternate "kill" switch. I put an RS2 switch in its place to control a future cowl flap.
079428EE-7ACB-44E3-A61E-87069E5CD926_zpshmdwn40f.jpg


I finished all of the initial software/configuration settings thanks to Chris at SteinAir. I started tidying the wires under the panel, this "Dammit Clamp" holding the main run down the firewall was particularly troublesome. I finally clamped and safety wired it, the bolt doubles as the top inside battery box anchor.
BA8B942F-CD80-4B5B-8A36-E0389F38EB94_zpsjesxlu3p.jpg


I'm currently trying to track down my sluggish starter performance, I was surprised to find 2 terminals on my master/starter solenoid barely snug. Waiting on a full battery charge to track it down.

My Alternator belt needed to be tightened slightly. The two engine vibration mounts on the left side both needed a quarter turn, the cotter pins were a pain! I found most of all the 1/4 bolts on the sump and case needed a quarter turn, the accessories case bolts were all tight. I'm really liking my new "sloppy" extension set, just enough give/wobble to fit in tight places.
AAAC7256-CF03-4B41-9627-6FBAE6E10B35_zpsz8sf6w4s.jpg
 
Using this guide from SkyTec http://www.skytecair.com/Troubleshooting.htm

and spending some time on the phone I have a bad battery (5 month old PC680 that has been acting up for 4 months) despite what AutoZone tells me.
The battery was fully charged and showing 12.5 volts.
When I hit the starter ther voltage measured at the battery dropped to 9 volts, the second and third hit of the starter yielded 6 volts. 9 volts turned it over about like an old Cherokee, 6 volts barely made it passed the compression stroke each time. I did skip ahead and got the same voltage readings at the starter. New battery ordered and taking the old one to Batteries Plus for more official testing.

I happened to bump my B-lead from the alternator at the ANL fuse with my knee while crawling around the engine and found every nut with a lock washer on the fuse and shunts took 1/3 of a turn.
4CEDC5AE-3FD2-4F63-812E-FB9FB2893540_zpsyoonc6eg.jpg


I found the rear canopy track bushing was slightly rubbing and one on the rollers up front wasn't rolling. Since I had the canopy off I ordered som "pip pins" in case I get more serious about the aerobatics.
0EF15B7C-A5CF-476B-94EC-9E787CD170C3_zpshktgfkxt.jpg


I finally made a wrench for tightening the jam nuts on the tail feathers, I hope It works like I envisioned.
8321908D-BCB7-48E9-8750-E1BF4065329F_zpsxfo7lvkd.jpg


I spent some time figuring weight and balance #'s, I could semi negate the weight of the added radios by removing my 11 lb landoll ring on the ring gear support (I also have an 18 lb crush plate). My initial calculations would move the CG back about .5 inch.
Currently 380 pilot and passenger at 0 fuel yields a CG of 84.39, just within the aerobatic CG of 84.5. If I remove the landoll ring I estimate the CG will be about 84.83 with the same loading, just aft of the aerobatic CG. Can't ever imagine myself being worried about CG with zero fuel:eek:!
15 gallons of gas moves the CG right up to 84.5, and 25 gallons of gas moves the CG more forward and the gross to 1600 lbs for airplane people and fuel. Removing the weight with 380 lbs of passengers, full fuel and 106 lbs of baggage (minus radios) puts me at 1800 lbs and CG 86.64 with an aft limit of 86.82. Minus a bit of fuel and I have to limit my baggage weight, I may keep the extra 11 lbs and keep the wider CG range.
 
I bribed my girls with pizza for lunch if we had an airport day on Sunday, it worked! I got a 5 hour work session and they had fun enjoying the early spring 60 degree temps.
D73C1493-131A-47C8-968C-529F644E30F5_zpszfaq8lky.jpg

DC780B5D-CFE2-4720-9595-056C406BD293_zpsjirckqkt.jpg

8E5795E3-1210-4980-8FD3-C139C0EE9551_zpsscr2lope.jpg


More bribing today, ice cream shakes this time...
176BDD9B-5EF9-4853-ACAD-4ED39555B77E_zpsemknt9yj.jpg


Well, my new bent wrench didn't exactly fit the jam nuts on the tail feathers, need to re-work it.

I pulled the ACK406 apart to install the jumper (http://www.ackavionics.com/pdf/E-04_REV_1.7_SINGLE_PAGE_REDUCED.pdf) to accept the NEMA 4800 Baud from the RS-232 from the G3X.i rolled it outside for a GPS signal and hooked up the test LED but no joy, it's still on the list.
33BB4C56-CB98-46C7-AD09-F6BC40757072_zpsogdrgl1x.jpg


My supervisor checking out the FWF, she is sneaky like a ninja and can re-arrange a toolbox or hardware drawer with the best of them but I wouldn't trade her for anything.
6A3A59B3-2A8B-43B4-B956-BA1B900F8C33_zpsoi9dlxs0.jpg


My DIY AOA port, I tried to copy the angles from a buddies "real" AOA pitot. I mostly just eyeballed it and used the same type rivet that Van's calls for the static port. I put it next to the second most outboard wing rib, same bay the leading edge landing light resides in. I put it on the right wing because that was the only spot I had room to run the tubing through the spar.
AA7C70EB-14BD-423C-9568-C9F75D2FA1AD_zpsmlwubkey.jpg

6BC491D7-64E0-4E4A-9FA4-97E83AE03395_zpsljko5wuu.jpg
 
I'm back in business!! Everything was put back together, weighed and test run in time for lunch at 4:00.....
1E862061-3E2E-40F8-B0AD-519C7A73F193_zpsehwly6k5.jpg


So far everything seems to checkout properly, I still need to calibrate the AOA and tweak the autopilot settings. Kinda surreal watching the autopilot capture an LPV approach with the boxes I wired in an airplane I built cruising down to 200 feet. For this guy it wouldn't be possible without the people that make up and visit VAF everyday, many thanks to many people.

5E8ADE9C-92D1-4EA9-9EFA-45053E2F6532_zpsg8r5ei46.jpg
 
Very nice Andy! Good to see your plane back on the ramp at K81 in front of We-B-Smokin!

Let us know if you have any questions about autopilot tuning.

Thanks,
Steve
 
Back
Top