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  #11  
Old 12-30-2014, 06:11 PM
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schristo@mac.com schristo@mac.com is offline
 
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Default Grind an edge of the nose or make a flat...

You can get by fine by knocking off an edge from the nose of the die and nesting it against the tight spot... by the end of the build I had one die that ended up with a flat side that would fit any tight spot.
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  #12  
Old 12-30-2014, 06:36 PM
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Not directly related to your question, but the edges need to be deburred and polished. You may have planned that for later but don't forget it.
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  #13  
Old 12-30-2014, 06:37 PM
ShortSnorter ShortSnorter is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
Correct
There are numerous instances that the manual will specify to use a reduced diam. female die. It is listed in the recommended tools list.
I do have reduced diameter dies and did end up using them to finish up. I just don't recall seeing the plans call for it in this particular step. Lesson leaned, I'll definitely size up the job before whacking away.

Here's a question: What's the purpose of "regular" size dies if you can use the reduced diameter dies? In other words, are they interchangeable or are the larger dies better to use in certain scenarios?
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  #14  
Old 12-30-2014, 06:44 PM
ShortSnorter ShortSnorter is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprucemoose View Post
Not directly related to your question, but the edges need to be deburred and polished. You may have planned that for later but don't forget it.
Are you referring to the pictures? The ones in the pictures have already been polished and scuffed for painting. At the stage the pictures were taken I had planned on dimpling, cleaning with acetone and then priming. Do you see something unsatisfactory in the pictures that I may have missed (just got finished priming)?
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  #15  
Old 12-30-2014, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShortSnorter View Post
Here's a question: What's the purpose of "regular" size dies if you can use the reduced diameter dies? In other words, are they interchangeable or are the larger dies better to use in certain scenarios?
The larger dies are easier to square to the work and more forgiving if your squeezer is not aligned well.
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  #16  
Old 12-30-2014, 06:57 PM
ShortSnorter ShortSnorter is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonJay View Post
The larger dies are easier to square to the work and more forgiving if your squeezer is not aligned well.
So in a c frame the "squaring" of the dies wouldn't be as critical as hand dimpling?

Last edited by ShortSnorter : 12-30-2014 at 08:56 PM. Reason: Typo
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  #17  
Old 12-30-2014, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShortSnorter View Post
Are you referring to the pictures? The ones in the pictures have already been polished and scuffed for painting. At the stage the pictures were taken I had planned on dimpling, cleaning with acetone and then priming. Do you see something unsatisfactory in the pictures that I may have missed (just got finished priming)?
Looks good from here to me....
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  #18  
Old 12-30-2014, 08:36 PM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
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Dimpling is two stage. First the dimple forms. Then then die perimeter reflattens the piece. Larger dies flatten better (if they're good).
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  #19  
Old 12-30-2014, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerhed View Post
Dimpling is two stage. First the dimple forms. Then then die perimeter reflattens the piece. Larger dies flatten better (if they're good).
Correct

This is more noticeable on thicker material ( .032 & .040)
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  #20  
Old 12-31-2014, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShortSnorter View Post
Are you referring to the pictures? The ones in the pictures have already been polished and scuffed for painting. At the stage the pictures were taken I had planned on dimpling, cleaning with acetone and then priming. Do you see something unsatisfactory in the pictures that I may have missed (just got finished priming)?
I'm referring to the edges of the material (where it was cut) which appear very rough in the pictures. Pictures can be deceiving but that's that they look like to me. The edges should be smooth with all the tool marks removed. The edge of the stiffener web (top edge in the bottom photo) is in a highly stressed area of the part, where a crack is likely to start.

A cracked stiffener will probably not bring down the plane, but the tail kit is the place to develop good construction habits and practices.
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