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12-30-2014, 06:11 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: WA
Posts: 988
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Grind an edge of the nose or make a flat...
You can get by fine by knocking off an edge from the nose of the die and nesting it against the tight spot... by the end of the build I had one die that ended up with a flat side that would fit any tight spot.
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Stephen
RV7 powered by a lycoming thunderbolt IO-390
turning a whirlwind HRT prop
with more hours flying than building... 2,430 on the hobbs!
ORCA Flight
Race 771
margarita!
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12-30-2014, 06:36 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: MKE
Posts: 1,519
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Not directly related to your question, but the edges need to be deburred and polished. You may have planned that for later but don't forget it.
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Jeff Point
RV-6, RLU-1 built & flying
Tech Counselor, Flight Advisor & President, EAA Chapter 18
Milwaukee
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12-30-2014, 06:37 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: NOLA
Posts: 229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002
Correct
There are numerous instances that the manual will specify to use a reduced diam. female die. It is listed in the recommended tools list.
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I do have reduced diameter dies and did end up using them to finish up. I just don't recall seeing the plans call for it in this particular step. Lesson leaned, I'll definitely size up the job before whacking away.
Here's a question: What's the purpose of "regular" size dies if you can use the reduced diameter dies? In other words, are they interchangeable or are the larger dies better to use in certain scenarios?
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12-30-2014, 06:44 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: NOLA
Posts: 229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprucemoose
Not directly related to your question, but the edges need to be deburred and polished. You may have planned that for later but don't forget it.
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Are you referring to the pictures? The ones in the pictures have already been polished and scuffed for painting. At the stage the pictures were taken I had planned on dimpling, cleaning with acetone and then priming. Do you see something unsatisfactory in the pictures that I may have missed (just got finished priming)?
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12-30-2014, 06:55 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
Posts: 4,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShortSnorter
Here's a question: What's the purpose of "regular" size dies if you can use the reduced diameter dies? In other words, are they interchangeable or are the larger dies better to use in certain scenarios?
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The larger dies are easier to square to the work and more forgiving if your squeezer is not aligned well.
__________________
Smart People do Stupid things all the time. I know, I've seen me do'em.
RV6 - Builder/Flying
Bucker Jungmann
Fiat G.46 -(restoration in progress, if I have enough life left in me)
RV1 - Proud Pilot.
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12-30-2014, 06:57 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: NOLA
Posts: 229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonJay
The larger dies are easier to square to the work and more forgiving if your squeezer is not aligned well.
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So in a c frame the "squaring" of the dies wouldn't be as critical as hand dimpling?
Last edited by ShortSnorter : 12-30-2014 at 08:56 PM.
Reason: Typo
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12-30-2014, 06:57 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
Posts: 4,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShortSnorter
Are you referring to the pictures? The ones in the pictures have already been polished and scuffed for painting. At the stage the pictures were taken I had planned on dimpling, cleaning with acetone and then priming. Do you see something unsatisfactory in the pictures that I may have missed (just got finished priming)?
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Looks good from here to me....
__________________
Smart People do Stupid things all the time. I know, I've seen me do'em.
RV6 - Builder/Flying
Bucker Jungmann
Fiat G.46 -(restoration in progress, if I have enough life left in me)
RV1 - Proud Pilot.
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12-30-2014, 08:36 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Big Sandy, WY
Posts: 2,567
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Dimpling is two stage. First the dimple forms. Then then die perimeter reflattens the piece. Larger dies flatten better (if they're good).
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Actual repeat offender.
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12-30-2014, 08:40 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerhed
Dimpling is two stage. First the dimple forms. Then then die perimeter reflattens the piece. Larger dies flatten better (if they're good).
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Correct
This is more noticeable on thicker material ( .032 & .040)
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Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.
Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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12-31-2014, 09:00 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: MKE
Posts: 1,519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShortSnorter
Are you referring to the pictures? The ones in the pictures have already been polished and scuffed for painting. At the stage the pictures were taken I had planned on dimpling, cleaning with acetone and then priming. Do you see something unsatisfactory in the pictures that I may have missed (just got finished priming)?
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I'm referring to the edges of the material (where it was cut) which appear very rough in the pictures. Pictures can be deceiving but that's that they look like to me. The edges should be smooth with all the tool marks removed. The edge of the stiffener web (top edge in the bottom photo) is in a highly stressed area of the part, where a crack is likely to start.
A cracked stiffener will probably not bring down the plane, but the tail kit is the place to develop good construction habits and practices.
__________________
Jeff Point
RV-6, RLU-1 built & flying
Tech Counselor, Flight Advisor & President, EAA Chapter 18
Milwaukee
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