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  #11  
Old 12-23-2014, 03:32 PM
maus92 maus92 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
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That's an interesting idea, re: the 3M contact vinyl. Do you know the source? Michael (craft store) or an automotive speed shop?
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  #12  
Old 12-23-2014, 06:30 PM
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GeneL GeneL is offline
 
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Dan you nailed it!
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  #13  
Old 12-23-2014, 06:47 PM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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I painted my panel with Rust-Oleum gray textured paint and baked it in the oven (when my wife wasn't around) at 200*F for two hours. After 650 hours it is still holding up very well!

The challenge finding some way to make labels that would stick to the textured surface. For that, I used the Decal Pro. The learning curve is a big one but once you master it, the results are great!
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  #14  
Old 12-23-2014, 07:07 PM
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aturner aturner is offline
 
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Location: Clarion, Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maus92 View Post
That's an interesting idea, re: the 3M contact vinyl. Do you know the source? Michael (craft store) or an automotive speed shop?
http://www.carbonfiberfilm.com/

[IMG][/IMG]
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Last edited by aturner : 12-23-2014 at 08:27 PM.
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  #15  
Old 12-23-2014, 07:56 PM
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Jesse Jesse is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: X35 - Ocala, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill_H View Post
Instead of paint, you should consider high quality 3M peel-and-stick carbon-fiber-look vinyl. Comes in different colors and patterns. Easy to apply and looks REALLY sharp. I have silver on my RV-12. That's a tip up canopy and I have seen no reflection issues.
I also like the carbon look.

The easiest finish I have done is to sand blast the panel and then clear coat with a matte varnish. Comes to a nice-looking gray with a nice texture.

For labels, I get a local trophy shop to make placques with engraved lettering. The placques come out black with gray letters. Look really sharp.
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  #16  
Old 12-23-2014, 08:01 PM
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Bill_H Bill_H is offline
 
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If you do the vinyl, be sure any flush rivets on your panel are really flush. Better too deep than proud - that will show. If too deep, use a little filler.
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  #17  
Old 12-23-2014, 09:17 PM
maus92 maus92 is offline
 
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Location: Annapolis MD
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I'm sort of surprised about the number of builders using spray can paint vs. powder coating. For me though, I'm not going to have very much panel space that is not covered by a display, so I'm thinking I can get away with it. The main panel has two G3Xs and an A/P controller; the two side "wings" are probably the largest "open" spaces, and there's only enough room on both for a few switches. Since there are already holes from former switches, I'm going to cover them over with new panel pieces and engraved with legends - or if I go with carbon vinyl - decals. For color, I think a very dark gray / charcoal, matte finish.
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  #18  
Old 12-23-2014, 09:47 PM
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Jesse Jesse is offline
 
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I actually usually use a matte black powder coat, but if you don't have the equipment, the 2 ways I listed are easier. I prefer to have the panel not stand out. I think matte black looks the best because the panel "disappears" and you can focus on what you should focus on. That's just my preference, though.
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  #19  
Old 12-24-2014, 12:20 AM
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SMO SMO is offline
 
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Location: Salmon Arm, BC
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Here is how I did my panel on the rocket. Nearly 50 hours on it now, most of those in sunshine and glare has never been an issue. Nor is focus - when flying and looking at the panel everything but the instruments fades from my consciousness, I don't notice any of the rest of it.



Here is another panel treatment I like, this was in my RV-4. Easily done with a conical wire brush in a drill press. Put 100 hours or so on that plane and again glare was not an issue. You'd think if anything was going to cause a glare problem this would.

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  #20  
Old 12-26-2014, 08:47 AM
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n82rb n82rb is offline
 
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textured white powder for mine.
http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/n8...d1b43.jpg.html

Last edited by n82rb : 12-26-2014 at 08:50 AM.
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