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06-09-2014, 01:15 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 416
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SB 13-12-12
I?m ready to apply the seal between the F-1240 Upper Forward Fuselage Skin and the Fwd Fuse Doubler per 29A-06, Rev 4, Step 8. However, I?m hesitant after reading some of the reported experiences with the Permatex 16BR adhesive.
? I had initially thought of lining the underside edge of F-1240 with clear packing tape, and then swab that with a thin coat of light oil to effect an easy release. Has anyone tried that? Results?
? Mitch757: How thick is that rescue tape? How well does it adhere with the silicone cement? Which cement?the two part GeeBee from ACS? Any difficulty getting the F-1240 back on the fuse? (You used the term ?upper cowl,? which I assumed to be the F-1240. Is that correct?) Any follow up observations?
? Bill_H: Thanks for the photos. How long have you had the tape on? Flown much with it since? Does it seem to be doing the job OK at only one layer? Any proof testing?
? Anyone who has used the Permatex 16BR: Any special precautions taken to prevent the stuff from getting in the screw holes?
Would greatly appreciate any feedback about this. Thanks in advance.
Side note: I shopped the Permatex on-line. O?Reilly Auto Parts has the 3 oz size listed at $5.89, and Walmart shows $14.31 for the same one?gotta be something wrong there.
__________________
John Halcrow
Tustin, CA
RV-12 120682
Emp/TC done; Wings done; Fuse kit done
"History teaches us that men and nations behave wisely once they have exhausted all other alternatives." --Abba Eban
Paid up until Aug 2021
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06-09-2014, 03:11 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Falmouth, MA
Posts: 355
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Using Rescue Tape
Hi John,
The rescue tape that I got is about .018" thick. You can double it up as much as you want and it will adhere to itself.
Yes, the glue is the two part stuff supplied by Gee-Bee AeroProducts (GBSC-2) and sold by ACS. It sticks extremely well and is specifically compounded to adhere silicone seals to aircraft. The stuff is a bit pricey, but will remain useful for quite a while if kept in a refrigerator after mixing. Mine is still good after 3 years.
I used one layer on the F-1240 forward and two layers on the sides and it has worked out well.
I'm also going to use this under the fiberglas wingtip light fairings instead of the proseal.
Mitch
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06-09-2014, 05:44 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Marshall TX (KASL)
Posts: 1,783
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It was 3 layers of tape. No rain flying since and I haven't proof tested. My plan it to run some water on it for a bit right before the next time I have a reason to take that panel off.
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06-09-2014, 08:45 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 416
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Thanks for the replies, gents. Now, does anybody aboard know where I can find out what happens when Rescue Tape burns...that and the Gee-Bee adhesive? I haven't been able to locate any safety data for them on line. Since these are intended to be in contact with the firewall, I think it might be good info to have.
__________________
John Halcrow
Tustin, CA
RV-12 120682
Emp/TC done; Wings done; Fuse kit done
"History teaches us that men and nations behave wisely once they have exhausted all other alternatives." --Abba Eban
Paid up until Aug 2021
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06-09-2014, 10:41 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 663
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I used red high temperature automotive kit. Waxed the top panel. No problem with taking off the top panel afterwards.
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07-12-2014, 06:32 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 37
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I just finished sealing the avionics bay per sb13-12-12. After some of the stories about release agents not really working, I tried all manner of concoctions on scrap and discovered that the stories were true. What worked far better than anything else (including traditional car wax, synthetic car wax, Boelube, and ChapStic), was silicone O-ring lube like the kind used for swimming pool o-rings. I gave the Permatex a week to set up and then was able to pop the fuselage skin back off with only a small bit of sticking. It cleaned up really well with denatured alcohol. Hope this helps those of you that have not yet done this.
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07-14-2014, 12:42 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Perth, Scotland
Posts: 494
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Electrical tape too thin
At the second attempt, I reverted to using just one layer of electrical tape. This has proved insufficient. I recently flew through some light rain and had rain drips coming through and running down the instrument panel. I keep absorbent paper handy in the cockpit to mop it up, but this is obviously far from ideal...
Cheers...Keith
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08-08-2014, 09:27 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 416
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Used the rescue tape method
I opted to try the rescue tape bonded with silicone cement. Seems to work OK. I didn't have any major issues. There is one thing I'd like to pass on about the silicone cement from Gee-Bee AeroProducts (GBSC-2). I mixed up a small batch in one of the 2 oz plastic shot glasses I've been using for small quantities of firewall sealant. There was a good bit left over which I set aside. When I came back to the hangar two days later I found that the plastic glass had melted and there was a puddle of cured cement to be scraped up. I'm lucky it didn't happen to affect anything of value.
__________________
John Halcrow
Tustin, CA
RV-12 120682
Emp/TC done; Wings done; Fuse kit done
"History teaches us that men and nations behave wisely once they have exhausted all other alternatives." --Abba Eban
Paid up until Aug 2021
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11-15-2014, 06:35 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Medford, OR
Posts: 287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnmisage
What worked far better than anything else (including traditional car wax, synthetic car wax, Boelube, and ChapStic), was silicone O-ring lube like the kind used for swimming pool o-rings. I gave the Permatex a week to set up and then was able to pop the fuselage skin back off with only a small bit of sticking. It cleaned up really well with denatured alcohol. Hope this helps those of you that have not yet done this.
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THANKS! After reading about how much trouble folks were having, I tried your method on scrap and found that 48 hours minimum worked. So I went ahead and used Permatex Black Silicone 81158 as the sealant and Boss 820 Silicone Lube as the release agent and the ends of the parts just separated cleanly when I peeked after 48 hours.
Jeff
Edit: Here are the pics after letting the sealant cure for one week and then removing the avionics bay.
P.S. Be sure to now put in the "do not rivet" flush rivet for the most lateral nutplate before screwing down the F-1240 upper forward fuselage skin. And don't ask me what happens if you forget to do this.
Last edited by Gandalf : 11-25-2014 at 08:33 PM.
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12-23-2014, 03:20 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacPara
I contacted these guys and the product is VWS 150 (1/8" thick and 1/4" wide) and runs for $3/ft. They also have a VWS 100 which is 1/8" thick and 3/16" wide. For bulk ordering you need to call them or inquire by email as they don't have a bulk option in their web store.
I think I'll try their VWS 100 for the seal between canopy bottom and the avionics cover. 1/8" might be too thick to seal the avionics bay against water but we'll see. If it compresses very well it might just be ok for that as well.
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I admit it took me a while. Even longer than I had anticipated but, honestly, there is really not much need for water-proofing anything down here.
I finally installed the VWS 100 on top of the firewall and it works great. Compressed with minimal effort and must seal the bay virtually air tight now.
I installed the slightly wider version VWS 150 under the canopy skirt to keep water from being pushed through that minimal gap and running over the panel. I guess the only opportunity to test this might be by getting the plane washed in one of those fancy washing streets.
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